Dave's Evo X Build/The Life of Dave blog

[Murlo26]

So the Evo will probably sit for the summer as I planning to spend bonus money this year on other things non evo related (potentially expensive rock for woman, we will see :)) but I was curious as I am looking at wheel/tire setups.

Has anyone had experience with these?

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.php?item=ETStreetRadialII

I would run these in the 265/40/18. I would then sell my current rims for some 9.5" ones with the same offset. Also, question on offset, since I would go from 10.5" wide rims to 9.5" wide ones (both +15mm offset) would they still sit in the same position with regards to how far they stick out? I am guessing yes and they would just be less concave? I just don't want my fender roll/pull to look weird.

I am looking at 18's because I would like to keep my braking power so if I ever chose to do road course stuff I don't have to change much.

However, my end goal is just street and 1/4 mile for this car and then if I keep the car running long enough maybe try other stuff.

The other option, is change front brakes out, there are several options here, but then move to 17's or less even and slicks and maybe keep my current rim/tire setup for street.

No idea where to go with this just yet. I bought new rotors from MAP, girodisc 2 pc for the rear as they were on clearance and was planning to go 2pc for weight savings etc but I could sell those and change strategies.

I like the idea of running the MT street radials as I have heard a lot of the really high HP guys run those on the street so they must be decent. But I am guessing they suck in rain and turning...dunno.

[cmspaz]

Offset is how far the seating surface of the wheels is from the center point. A 15mm offset is the same seating position from center on all wheels. If you go down in size an inch, you lose a half inch on both edges of the wheel, so the inside is 1/2" further away from the strut, and the outside is 1/2" further inboard. Also, this generally means that the spokes are closer to the caliper, but by how much depends on how much the manufacturer changes to face of the wheel at that offset in different widths.

Here's a good resource: http://www.willtheyfit.com/

[Kracka]

Changing out the brakes is a really dangerous idea considering you're still wanting it to be a street car plus have the possibility of taking it on the road course sometime. You already have some nice lightweight rotors...leave well enough alone. If you want to shave weight, a lower weight wheel and tire combo will be more beneficial anyway.

Mark Berry did the small lightweight drag rotors on his 2200 lb. Evo VIII and he said they're fine for autocross due to his car being so light, but said he'd never consider taking them on the road coarse or even a fast/spirited street cruise.

[asshanson]

I agree with Kracka on the brakes, don't go to a small brake kit. Especially with how heavy the X is. A lighter wheel/tire combo will have a greater effect because a lot of the mass is further from the center which is what takes the most torque to spin.

Or, if you're just wanting the 17" wheel for tire options, I'm sure there are plenty of R compound tires available in the 18" size. How about the Nitto NT05-R or the NT01? Or the Toyo RA-1? Why are you changing from 10.5" to 9.5" width?

[Murlo26]

I agree with Kracka on the brakes, don't go to a small brake kit. Especially with how heavy the X is. A lighter wheel/tire combo will have a greater effect because a lot of the mass is further from the center which is what takes the most torque to spin.

Or, if you're just wanting the 17" wheel for tire options, I'm sure there are plenty of R compound tires available in the 18" size. How about the Nitto NT05-R or the NT01? Or the Toyo RA-1? Why are you changing from 10.5" to 9.5" width?

The wheel change was simply to find a solid drag radial tire, like the ones from MT i linked above. They don't have a 275 or 285 so my wheel size won't work.

I have thought about something like what you have listed.

My bottom line, I want to be able to cut decent 60' times at the track. I don't necessarily need the 1.3-1.5 from slicks, but I would like to get consistent 1.6-1.7 times that an AWD car should be capable of (keep in mind, taking out of the equation driving skill, that is another topic lol).

I am not crazy about the small brakes either, which is why I am asking. But many people on the national forums said even wide sticky summer tires like star specs or others won't cut great times. Most guys recommend if you are serious about getting times, get some 17's and slicks. I was trying to find a middle ground.

I don't honestly drive the car a ton and I "could" make it into a dedicated drag car but not sure I want to. I still want to be able to do things like the mitsu cruise etc, which I will need brakes for.

[simulatedwood]

The wheel change was simply to find a solid drag radial tire, like the ones from MT i linked above. They don't have a 275 or 285 so my wheel size won't work.

I have thought about something like what you have listed.

My bottom line, I want to be able to cut decent 60' times at the track. I don't necessarily need the 1.3-1.5 from slicks, but I would like to get consistent 1.6-1.7 times that an AWD car should be capable of (keep in mind, taking out of the equation driving skill, that is another topic lol).

I am not crazy about the small brakes either, which is why I am asking. But many people on the national forums said even wide sticky summer tires like star specs or others won't cut great times. Most guys recommend if you are serious about getting times, get some 17's and slicks. I was trying to find a middle ground.

I don't honestly drive the car a ton and I "could" make it into a dedicated drag car but not sure I want to. I still want to be able to do things like the mitsu cruise etc, which I will need brakes for.

For Evo's the biggest concern is the tire diameter, You want to get the biggest diameter you can so you don't need to shift to 5th to finish, this is of course with trap speeds assumed in the 120 range. 17's or 18's really don't make much of a difference in 60 ft times as Ron @ RS has shown me.

[Halon]

I agree with others on here about getting smaller front brakes. Especially if you can run 265 wide tires on all 4 corners, with a good tire I'd imagine you'd have plenty of traction. I ran smaller less sticky tires on my Talon when it was making ~600ish. I could spin em in first of course (plus I had non-LSD rear).

[Murlo26]

Well, I know I had TONS of traction issues with my current wheel/tire setup on my EF4 setup making 600-630whp. But I was dumping it at like 6k rpms and spinning through 1st/2nd.

So I am guessing part of that issue was driver error but it made me think I need some better tires too.

And as far as tire diameter, I am not super concerned there as I built my motor to rev, so I will just run 4th out until i pass the line, which should be 9000 or less.

I am debating about doing a final drive eventually here as well but that is future stuff. I also am not going to be making as much power as before on the next setup (most likely). I am going to target 550-600whp with stock like spool. So hopefully launching will be easier. I will also do boost by gear stuff to keep low gears at lower power to help with noobness.

[Halon]

Yeah I still spun 1st on the street, and a little in 2nd. At the track I'd spin a little in first and none in 2nd. But again that was smaller tires, and straight street tires (HTRZ3's), dumping from maybe 4k, I forget so long ago haha. It's tough to find that balance, but seems like you can fit some pretty decent tires on there as is so I'd hate to settle for smaller front brakes if it isn't absolutely necessary.

Then again here I am saying that, yet I'm putting my Lexus's rear brakes back to stock (or NA supra) because the TT Supra rear brake upgrade I have installed are too big for my drag rim setup lol.

[Kracka]

Well, I know I had TONS of traction issues with my current wheel/tire setup on my EF4 setup making 600-630whp. But I was dumping it at like 6k rpms and spinning through 1st/2nd.
At your power level, dumping the clutch at 6k RPM, be glad your tires spun. Honda guys do that to keep axles from snapping; if their tires hook w/o spinning, bye-bye axle :)

There is always going to be a weak-link in the drivetrain, you've already eliminated the clutch, next up is obviously the tires. If you eliminate the tires...what's next?