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311evo
10-28-2012, 03:56 AM
Yeah you can tap them on a wood counter top or cement floor if need be.

To open up the gap use a pliers. Don't pry against the electrode/insulation.

scheides
10-28-2012, 11:31 AM
I'd check with a set of real feeler gages, that graduated one is tough to get a real reading from IMHO.

Maybe a fresh set of plugs is in order too, considering the trouble others have been having?

Murlo26
10-28-2012, 05:10 PM
I'd check with a set of real feeler gages, that graduated one is tough to get a real reading from IMHO.

Maybe a fresh set of plugs is in order too, considering the trouble others have been having?
Yea, I went out this morning and bought real feeler gauges. Then gapped them to .018, zero problems now! Car pulls smooth all the way up :) Leaned out up top to ~13:1 though...car was pretty low on fuel though, maybe 9 gallons below full or so, sigh, still need a surge tank.

Zero knock though. Also, ignore numbers, knoxville was with me but its down an entrance ramp, so subtract something like 30whp prolly. Really just showing the curves and the smoothness. Car rips, feels great! 34 psi with cold weather, holding 30psi out to 8700 and still not maxed on wgdc.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b252/Murlo26/Newlogtoday.jpg

scheides
10-28-2012, 06:37 PM
Woot! I love making 580+whp dynojet and still leaving some on the table :) EF4 ftw!

Murlo26
10-29-2012, 09:50 AM
Woot! I love making 580+whp dynojet and still leaving some on the table :) EF4 ftw!

Yep :) Totally agree, this turbo has some bite, good balance of hp/spool imo. I don't think I will ever get rid of stock frame as I don't need anymore power.

The MAP I have on the car right now is at 90% wgdc right now. I have a 100% one on my ALT MAP but have never tried, never had a desire too as the car is fast already.

Knoxville
10-29-2012, 09:57 AM
I have a 100% one on my ALT MAP but have never tried, never had a desire too as the car is fast already.

The ALT Map will just finish off what you already started with the clutch! :angryfire:

scheides
10-29-2012, 03:40 PM
Yep :) Totally agree, this turbo has some bite, good balance of hp/spool imo. I don't think I will ever get rid of stock frame as I don't need anymore power.

The MAP I have on the car right now is at 90% wgdc right now. I have a 100% one on my ALT MAP but have never tried, never had a desire too as the car is fast already.

Careful using it--I turned the boost down on my car from 33 to 30 and it richened up about .6 AFR. I can only surmise that going from 33 to 36 would have a similar semi-linear affect.

What's your peak IDC btw? I haven't checked mine in a while, just curious how those lil'1300's are doing!

Murlo26
10-29-2012, 03:49 PM
I have two Alt MAPs, one is richer than what I have on there now in case I need it.

Right now, assuming I have proper fuel pressure and the basket is full, the car is running plenty rich at mid 11's.

I don't plan to use the ALT map ever at this point, I see no reason. I am not so concerned with numbers as I used to be. I prefer a car that I know everything is running correctly and stays that way.

IDC's I am not sure. My log from the dynoday is all screwed up, the column headers aren't in the right spots. But my guess from looking at it, is ~97%.

I plan to buy the new ID1300's when they come out too. The DW's just don't feel very stable. I feel like I could have a better injector and ID's are always solid. I hope ID does do 1400's though instead to give me some room.

Murlo26
12-05-2012, 03:51 PM
Well typical bad ideas running through my head with no evo to drive and only forums to keep my car urges satisfied until spring. Starting to look at upgrades/changes to make for spring.

I am in heavy debate about switching to a full t3 setup and running the GTX3576 turbo. However, that will cost me 1500-2k depending on how much I sell my current setup for and realistically won't make much more power if any. So then I started looking at the 6262 or 6266 turbos...then I need to redo fuel system again.

Part of me wants to just do intake mani, ported throttle body and then figure out a surge tank setup and work on removing weight (new seats, new driveshaft, new small breaks etc etc).

So I am still not sure what to do. I will for sure be changing injectors. To either the new ID1300's that I think are supposed to be coming out or maybe the FIC 1600 area ones that are coming out to give me some headroom.

I saw this today, so this is the real reason I am posting...thoughts?
http://www.theboombopshop.com/Golden-Eagle-Intake-Manifold-Mitsubishi-4B11T-Evo-p/gim109.htm

That vs. the MAP rev 3 intake mani porting. What are peoples experience with the golden eagle stuff, worth it? Pricing wise its close to the MAP rev 3 but I know for sure what I am getting with the MAP ported OEM piece. The rev 3 seems safe but this piece seems a lil risky like I might spend money on something that doesn't do shit for my setup. But on the other hand a proper aftermarket manifold should yield great results if designed right.

Hmmmm....

Kracka
12-05-2012, 05:20 PM
IM/TB are definitely big restrictions for you right now; focus on those before upgrading the turbo any further. Scratch the idea of small brakes, those are really for drag only since you get one good stop out of them. I wouldn't feel comfortable on the highway with them. My friend down here with his 2,250 lb. VIII autocross car runs the AMS Wilwood drag brakes and he said no way in hell would he track with them since they heat up too quickly...and that car is over 1k lbs. lighter than yours. 2-piece rotors and an aluminum driveshaft would be good ways to drop substantial rotational mass though.