Evo X upgrades

[C3L1CA]

MAS actually moved to Oakdale this past summer, went out of business, but I think they re-opened again.

You should go to TNT Race Shop if you want to get fittings locally. They are a lot more knowledgeable than MAS could ever be.

[Kracka]

I know MAP stocks -AN lines and fittings.

[mlomker]

When RS installed my coils they had the rebound set on a fairly stiff setting. We tried to get at the rebound adjustment for the rear coils but it couldn't be reached with the hex key. Over the weekend I cut down a hex key and spent a few hours (on and off) figuring out how to get them in there. I finally found the right angle using needle nose pliers.

http://www.typepad.com/services/asset/6a00d83452e54d69e201287699a737970c-200pi

I want to upgrade my clutch before the BB-X arrives because I don't think the stocker would live more than a few days with that thing installed. I decided to go with what many X owners are doing: the ACT HD six-puck sprung. I'm going with a ACT Prolite flywheel as well.

I'm planning to put in an adjustable FPR and a double-pump using a Full Blown hanger. I'm not sure if the DW1000's will be adequate even at a higher base pressure but I know a few guys have set it up that way.

[Kracka]

Shouldn't a single 255HP flow enough to support the BB-X on E85?

[mlomker]

Shouldn't a single 255HP flow enough to support the BB-X on E85?

For whatever reason the X's don't get as much out of a single Walbro as the 8/9's. Shane says they max around 420. The stock-frame turbos are doing around 450 with cams so quite a bit of work for that 30hp. I suppose it's better to have too much fuel capacity than too little.

Oh, yeah...I have a set of Cosworth MX1's on order as well. I'll be putting those in with the BB-X.

[Kracka]

Ahh ok, I didn't know that about the X's. Will the 2nd pump only come on during boost or how will it be wired in? What are the specs on those Cosi cams?

[mlomker]

Will the 2nd pump only come on during boost or how will it be wired in? What are the specs on those Cosi cams?

I'm going to wait for Ron to figure out the wiring & plumbing but I'm assuming a Hobbs switch based on boost for the second pump. Another company, BlaqOps, makes progressive double-pump kits for the X based off boost or maf. It's more sophisticated but they require sending in your stock hanger for modification...I don't want to pay for the downtime (rental car).

These are the same cams that murlo has--266/266. They are mild, not requiring a spring upgrade.

http://www.maperformance.com/cosworth-mx1-camshafts-2008-mitsubishi-evolution-evo-x.html

[scheides]

Spring upgrades are the shit, you'll be bouncing off the stock rev limiter with the stock springs and the BBX I promise :)

Are you going to do the cams and turbo at the same time? Or sit on the cams and see how the car does on stock cams? With the stock cams you could rev it a little higher pretty safely :)

[t-revzr]

So you can push a X's stock bottom more than a 8's or 9's?

[mlomker]

Spring upgrades are the shit, you'll be bouncing off the stock rev limiter with the stock springs and the BBX I promise

I assume you have to pull the head to do springs? I just added up the parts and it looks unaffordable to me. I assume you'd need springs, head studs, head & valve cover gaskets, cams? That's $1500 in parts and another $1k in labor wouldn't surprise me.

I've heard that just swapping the cam takes some time, unless the tech has done quite a few of them.

Are you going to do the cams and turbo at the same time?

I was planning to do it at once since I'd have to pay for two tunes otherwise. I guess if I'm concerned about making too much power (see below) then I can always ask Shane for a mild tune. You can always turn the boost down...

So you can push a X's stock bottom more than a 8's or 9's?

What is the number for the 8 and 9's? I thought that 400's were fine on them. Ryan's AMS turbo is running in the 500's. I'm not sure what the long-term consequences of adding power will be...they've only been out since 2008 so we really don't know for sure.

I'm only aware of a couple X's that were pushed until they came apart. The rod bolts let go somewhere in the 600's.

There are a few shops (like TTP) that insist on rod bolts & head studs beyond 400hp. I'm under the impression that they can be done without pulling the head/motor if the mechanic knows what they are doing...I will talk to the local shops when I'm ready to install and see what they have to say.