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Kracka
09-05-2010, 11:56 AM
Thanks Kracka. I ordered a couple assortment packs of fuses off Amazon. I'll revisit that when I get the parts for the afpr install.
I believe there are spare fuses in the fuse box that you can use.

mlomker
09-05-2010, 07:46 PM
I believe there are spare fuses in the fuse box that you can use.

I think it was 5,10, 20amp. I used the 20 when it blew.

Kracka
09-05-2010, 08:02 PM
Drive your silly ass to Walmart and buy a big pack and throw a 30 in :)

mlomker
09-05-2010, 08:07 PM
Drive your silly ass to Walmart and buy a big pack and throw a 30 in :)

When you can get a 120-pack assortment from Amazon for $8 or a 6-pack at the convenience store for the same price then it seems like a no-brainer to me.

--
I'm going to stop fucking around with the ID2000 injectors. It doesn't look they are ever going to be 'drivable' in any real sense. It's noticeably better now with the settings that Tephra has found but idling and not misfiring even 99% of the time will still result in endless CELs and embarrassment when the car dies in heavy traffic.

I have a set of DW1300's on the way.

Kracka
09-05-2010, 08:11 PM
That sucks man :( Glad you're making progress though.

FattyBoomBatty
09-05-2010, 10:17 PM
Oh snap, I'll give you 100 bucks for those used 2000's.

mlomker
09-06-2010, 09:07 AM
Oh snap, I'll give you 100 bucks for those used 2000's.

I'll leave it up to Shane whether we should give up on the 2k's. The 1300's would be easy to resell if I need to. I'd just like them on hand for my next visit to DB.

My problem is that the ID's and the intake seem to have turned one problem with my car into three.

1) AFR fluctuations at cruise that spike up into the 18's and cause the car to slow down, for lack of a better term. I assume this is a problem with the intake design since I experienced a similar (but more severe) version of that before the intake was scaled.

2) The car idles at 14.5-14.7afr on cold start but it idles at 13.2-13.4 the rest of the time (on my gauge). When I go to leave a stoplight the car bogs/stumbles/dies when trying to transition from 1k-2k rpms (where I normally let out the clutch).

If the injectors are too large to transition smoothly from idle then they have to go. If there's another table that can be tweaked for this then cool.

3) The fuel pressure drop above 7k rpms. I have a new fuel filter and BAP installed. An afpr should go in sometime this week. Not sure if this stuff will solve it but it's the last reasonable set of things to do before ripping the Full Blown system out.

mdost03
09-06-2010, 04:04 PM
That sucks, I have only heard good things about the ID injectors besides them possibly having issues on your car.

mlomker
09-06-2010, 04:20 PM
That sucks, I have only heard good things about the ID injectors besides them possibly having issues on your car.

There are threads saying that the DW1300's have identical problems...hunting AFRs at cruise, etc. The problem may very well be the Evo X ECU. Shane has said that they tune perfectly on an AEM and the ID1000 and DW1000's are universally considered to work perfectly on the X.

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-x-engine-management-tuning-forums/501470-deatsch-werks-1300cc-injectors-review-scale-latency-3.html#post8489599

FattyBoomBatty
09-06-2010, 09:09 PM
Crazy. Are you presently needing 2000cc of injector? I guess if not, don't use 'em.