Evo X upgrades

[mlomker]

Price- $285

nice. I had first heard of these a week after ordering the Rays ones.

[Matt D.]

I'm concerned that they aren't going to last a Summer if that's what they look like after just one trip to Brainerd. I'd prefer to only buy one set per year since it's over $1k/set after you pay for mounting, balancing, and all that.
My first set of Dunlop Z1s lasted me 19 autocross events and around 20k street miles. At that point they were at or below the 2/32 wear bars. This was with very aggressive camber (for a street car) and zero toe, negative 2.5-3 in the front, 1-1.5 in the rear.

Based on some of your comments, you don't follow this thread regularly. Stellar was fairly insistent on the rear toe whereas I had gone in there asking for 0. I deferred to his advice but I'm inclined to go back and have him remove the toe now.
The fact that they insisted on giving the car something other than 0 toe when it is street driven (your only car) and is not trailered to the track absolutely concerns me. It's just like any salesperson trying to sell you something that you don't need instead of finding out exactly what your application is and then providing you with the proper product or service.

I tried getting an appointment with Jeff last Winter. He wasn't good about returning emails or phone calls. I've also had people tell me that he doesn't like to do corner balancing and that might be why he wasn't returning my messages. It wasn't a good first impression. Maybe I'll give him another try next Spring if I only need an alignment.
That's just how he is. Customer service isn't his forte, but he does damn good work and warms up to you once he gets to know you, and you him. If you want corner weighting done I'd go to Orr Autosport.

[mlomker]

My first set of Dunlop Z1s lasted me 19 autocross events and around 20k street miles. At that point they were at or below the 2/32 wear bars. This was with very aggressive camber (for a street car) and zero toe, negative 2.5-3 in the front, 1-1.5 in the rear.

That's very good. I just need to get the rear toe out of there. I'm running -2.5/-1.5 right now. Zero toe in front but he dialed in like .26 in the rear.

it is street driven (your only car) and is not trailered to the track absolutely concerns me.

<--- My daily driver really is a `94 Plymouth Acclaim. The Evo is a toy that usually has a problem or three. At the moment it has a screw in a tire and is parked until a replacement tire comes in, hopefully Wednesday.

I do drive it to/from the track so you're right on that front. I'm going to get that toe taken out.

That's just how he is. Customer service isn't his forte, but he does damn good work and warms up to you once he gets to know you, and you him. If you want corner weighting done I'd go to Orr Autosport.

Does he have fixed prices? I've heard it said that he's very reasonable but taking time off from work and dealing with b.s. might not be worth it to me. Stellar gave me a loaner car. My boss is annoyed about all of the lost work related to the car this year as it is.

[Kracka]

Jeff is open on Saturday which solves your time away from work issue :) I always tried to get his first appt Saturday morning.

[BriK]

I do drive it to/from the track so you're right on that front. I'm going to get that toe taken out.

IMHO, my approach would be to learn how to drive the car (not saying you don't) and then approach changes from there. Don't like the turn-in? Work on adjusting that. Don't like how the rear end is reacting? Work on adjusting that.

Again IMHO, I think better driving can often cut off more time than a mod here or a mod there. Case in point, my uncle took The Kink at Road America at 100mph. Randy Pobst driving my uncle's same car on the same day, same conditions, took it at 110mph.

[Matt D.]

IMHO, my approach would be to learn how to drive the car (not saying you don't) and then approach changes from there. Don't like the turn-in? Work on adjusting that. Don't like how the rear end is reacting? Work on adjusting that.

Again IMHO, I think better driving can often cut off more time than a mod here or a mod there.
Words of wisdom. If you want your car to be faster around a race track then you need to mod yourself and not the car.

[mlomker]

IMHO, my approach would be to learn how to drive the car (not saying you don't) and then approach changes from there.

The rear toe eating tires doesn't require any particular skill to spot.

I can only afford one day per month at BIR, due to vacation time, etc. I don't care if I'm the slowest guy up there. I have different objectives than most of you.

Mostly this hobby is to keep my mind occupied. There's just a ton and a half to learn...about everything. Driving is just one of those things.

[turbotalon1g]

You can't be cool just working on the driver mod either.

So the car is running good and you are driving it daily?
How are you liking it?

[mlomker]

So the car is running good and you are driving it daily?

Not driving it right now `cause I found a screw in a tire on Sat morning. Discount Tire had to order one in so maybe Wednesday.

The car is fine other than the weekly o2 sensor CEL. Was on my way to Dad's Saturday morning to change the oil and see about swapping that out. Didn't make it there.

[turbotalon1g]

^sorry about the screw.

couldn't it be plugged? Usually unless its on the shoulder of hte tire you can plug and drive around, but they probably told you that.

Shitty.