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Halon
11-16-2012, 02:25 PM
Thanks for the tip!

Halon
11-21-2012, 12:54 PM
Small update.

Ordered a JWT 350z clutch w/ metallic disc from Vinny Ten Racing. Showed up with an organic disc though, so they will be shipping me a new disc in a couple weeks.

The rear subframe is completely disassembled with the exception of the pressed in bushings. I cleaned it up with soap and water out back.

Ordered all new TRD bushings for the rear subframe with the goal of stiffening it up a bit for performance reasons, yet still retaining some comfort (which is why I chose these TRD ones over poly/solid bushings). TRD are the same exact design as stock, just use a stiffer rubber. Had a hell of a time trying to find a shop that will press out the old and press in the new bushings. Nick (munchgsx) offered to try so hopefully we'll give that a try soon.

Once the old ones are out, prior to putting in the new ones I'll be sending the subframe to PowderKeg to blast and powdercoat so it's in better than new condition.

On the control arms, the ball joints are not servicable, so you have to spend stupid amounts of money to buy all new arms from the dealer. So instead, I asked John (Pushit) to see if he can figure out a way to get the old balljoints out, and modify the arms to accept some standard off-the-shelf ones. Will hopefully be able to get him an arm to try out here soon.

Also, started on the small amount of rust spots under the car. Basically just bought a sanding pad and sanded down the areas with rust. Then hit them with some Rustoleum rust inhibitor primer, and will follow it up with some Rustoleum black enamel. Hopefully that'll help reduce any rusting under there. But again was pretty happy with how little there was.

Also I sanded and primed the new rear diff. Giving it the same treatment with the rust inhibitor primer, then will give it a final coat of black enamel.

And same treatment to the axles, and the front face of the wheel hubs.

So the disassembly stage is coming to an end with the rear diff. Will be moving onto the reassembly portion soon which is exciting for me!

Super Bleeder!!
11-21-2012, 01:18 PM
careful with those control arms B. If i remember correctly they're aluminum. And since they're a structural item they'll be heat treated, so don't try and torch those ball joints out or you'll seriously compromise the strength of the arm.

Halon
11-21-2012, 01:33 PM
Yes they are aluminum. Thanks for the heads up. I'll pass that onto John when I give them to him, see what he says. I don't know much about metal properties or whatever, just hopefully he will know what he's doing.

Just sucks that the only other real option out there is to spend $400/ea on new arms, just because of the ball joint.

Super Bleeder!!
11-21-2012, 01:37 PM
Yes they are aluminum. Thanks for the heads up. I'll pass that onto John when I give them to him, see what he says. I don't know much about metal properties or whatever, just hopefully he will know what he's doing.

Just sucks that the only other real option out there is to spend $400/ea on new arms, just because of the ball joint.

400 per arm?!!? Jesus

Halon
11-21-2012, 01:38 PM
Yup. 2 in the front, 2 in the back, and I'm at about half the $$$ I paid for the entire car.

turbotalon1g
11-21-2012, 02:40 PM
How much is powdercoating that whole subframe gonna be?

Halon
11-21-2012, 02:47 PM
Don't know yet, but whatever it'll cost what it costs.

turbotalon1g
11-21-2012, 02:53 PM
http://beersportsbabes.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/balling.jpg?w=627

A//// Guy
11-21-2012, 03:10 PM
Hahaha I wouldnt powder coat that, no one sees it. Just clean it with degreaser, paint it with that rust inhibitor primer and then black. But if you really want to powder it, ballin university for sure!