Project Lex

[Halon]

Well thanks to pat for the lead on a motor. I just purchased a local running 2JZGE VVTi out of a wrecked IS300. Full motor / long block, with manifolds, with accessories, and the stock auto transmission, for $300. Hoping to go get it on Sunday. I only need the block and head, so I'll try and sell the accessories and transmission off it and end up with a free donor motor out of the deal :)

[turbotalon1g]

Fuuuccc, thats badass!

[Halon]

Got my donor motor. $300, can't beat that. Time to slowly build it and try out this VVTI thing :)

[asshanson]

Wow what a steal, very nice.

[Halon]

Nobody wants the GE (non-turbo) motors, especially the VVTi ones. No TT No Care. Works out great for me :)

[niterydr]

I like all of these updates!

[turbotalon1g]

How much power stock can those hold?
This is going to be the motor you build right?

[A//// Guy]

Nice updates! If only I could do it all again... lol Finding a 300 dollar motor would be nice! haha

[Halon]

How much power stock can those hold?
This is going to be the motor you build right?

Yes, this will be built. To try and keep it simple without going into all the details, all 2JZ blocks are virtually the same, Non-VVTi NA (GE), VVTi NA, TT (GTE), etc. are all virtually the same block. And it's no secret that these blocks can hold ridiculous power, even in stock form (700tq is a general guideline as the limit of the stock rods). But everyone wants the GTE motor because it's the TT motor. Most don't do the research to understand the non-vvti GE motor is also virtually just as strong, so that makes the GE motor less desirable (and cheaper). It's a GTE motor, but with 10:1 compression instead of 8.5:1 and no oil squirters, that generally speaking is the main short block differences. And I'd take 10:1 over 8.5:1 on e85 anyday!

Now, the VVTi GE motor, Toyota decided to put weaker (lighter) rods in the GE VVTi motor for whatever reason. These are the newer NA motors found in GS300's and IS300's. So that makes those even MORE undesirable. That's really how I got it so cheap, because nobody wants GE VVTi motors because it has the weaker rods that can "only handle 500hp" without becoming the weak link. Well to me that doesn't matter because I'm putting in built internals. So the fact nobody wants them just really works out in my favor. PLUS, VVTi is seen by so many people as some sort of black magic that's a tuners worst nightmare, so people avoid it thinking it's just going to be so difficult to tune, so why bother. Truth is, several folks have tuned it and the information is out there, and it's supposidely not that complicated. Advance 40* starting around like 1500rpm's. Gradually reduce it down to 0* Advance by around 5000rpm, that's all there is to it. I checked with my tuner, he said he's done several before and it's awesome, and is currently building a VVTi setup for his 80mm Supra. It makes a tremendous difference in the lower RPM range. Some folks even said that other than maybe Nitrous, there isn't another mod that will give you this big of a low end gain. It will not make more horsepower overall, but it'll make it sooner and give you a much fatter power band. See comparison below of Non-VVTi (thin line) vs. VVTi (bold line). But there is this mindset by the majority still that VVTi a nightmare, so again makes it less desirable and just a sweeter deal for me. Also means I can maybe jump to a 66mm turbo or something which I never would have considered before as it'd be seemingly so laggy to me, but I can retain as good of low end as I already have because of VVTi plus with the 10:1 compression still feel very responsive

OK I guess I rambled, lol.

VVTi Dyno Comparison:
http://media.fyre.co/GiQkr0FrSjqTX7tfy7S6_2014-09-19%2002.43.06.jpg

[Halon]

Side note, just purchased some guts for this motor. Huge thanks to Tony @ Real St. for spending weeks answering question after question from me, going through my pages of notes / calculations, verifying my compression math was correct with their well known engine builder, and overall helping me come up with what I believe is an absolute solid hardware choice while still being budget oriented. These rods I think will take anything I can ever throw at them, they are beefy!

Manley Pistons, 86.5mm, 9:1 rated compression (will be around 9.9:1 in my GE setup based on my math).
http://realstreetperformance.com/Shop-by-Engine/Pistons_31/Manley-Forged-Pistons-Toyota-Supra-2JZGTE.html

Manley H-Tuff Rods.
http://realstreetperformance.com/Shop-by-Engine/Connecting-Rods_31/Manley-H-Tuff-H-Beam-HD-Rod-Set-Toyota-2JZ-GTE.html