Project Lex

[Halon]

^ I have to say, the color has actually grown on me a ton lately. So many neutral colored cars (White, Black, Grey's), I'm really glad it has color. And I've started to notice I love this dark metallic green now. I wasn't a huge fan originally. I really love the Supra's in the same color. Probably my favorite color Supra honestly right now.

[turbotalon1g]

I love dark metallic green in general, i think it really suits this car.

[Halon]

Well just some small updates. Some of you saw in the shoutbox, but I ran into a couple issues.

Wednesday I went to take the car around the block, and it felt ridiculously slow and I couldn't rev over 4500rpm. Vlad remoted in and told me the Wideband sensor died and the ECU went into a fail-safe limp mode because of it. Ran to O'Reilly and grabbed a new Bosch 17018 sensor (I NEED TO SAVE THIS P/N SOMEWHERE!!!) as that's a readily available LSU 4.2 sensor with the AEM style connector. Threw that in and bam limp mode fixed, no more 4500rpm limit!

However car was still super slow feeling. Turns out one of my IC pipes blew off. I guess I'm so used to DSM's with MAS sensors where you blow the pipe and the car runs like dog shit and you know right away. This car not having a MAS, it still started, idled, and drove great, so took me awhile to realize it lol. I removed the pipe and made sure there was no rocks or road debris (thanks for that idea Pat). Got it all back together and she's running like a top again!

I went to get it aligned on Thursday. They found that my front control arm bushings were shot so they weren't even going to attempt working on the front. They did do the rears though to the specs I asked for. Overall it went good I guess because we identified an issue. So I've ordered a pair of new Supra front lower control arms with bushings, and also some new Moog upper control arms. So I'll put those in over the next couple weeks and hopefully the front will be good to go for another 100k miles. I'll bring it back and get the alignment redone at that point.

Today Kerry and I took it to the Auto Show and did a couple pulls. The new tune has us getting all the way up to 27psi by around 5200rpm, but gradually tapering to 22psi by redline. Holds better than it used to but still interesting how it tapers. I was sitting here staring at the log. I realized that AEM is showing that I'm flowing 70lb/min by 6500rpm and basically holding that until redline. This comp wheel is rated at 72lb/min. So being that I'm seeing 70lb/min, I'm wondering if I might just actually be about maxed out on this setup. My brain is so used to DSM stuff where I was pushing 35psi on a similar turbo to hit these kinda flow values, with 2 more cylinders now maybe I'm hitting those same amounts at less boost and this turbo will never hold 30psi to redline?

Anyway, car is feeling excellent! 3rd gear holds from a roll if the tires have had a chance to warm up. Here's a screen shot of my 3rd gear pull log.

http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16434&stc=1&d=1489805022

[asshanson]

Y U mask hp/tq #?
If your airflow maxed at the same time boost started dropping I'd agree. But your boost is dropping well before your airflow peaks. Doesn't hurt to step up the WG spring again, well might hurt to install haha.

That being said, you might hold boost longer with a stiffer spring, but if you're maxing out the turbo, I think you'll never be able to hold the 27psi+ to redline. Mo displacement mo problems!

[Halon]

Because the are BS numbers. If u wanna know what it said for HP, just take the airflow X 10. That's all it's doing. So I scribbled it out so some 17 y/o newb doesn't mistake it as real.

[Halon]

Since the car has been running great, we went ahead and made reservation at DB to rent their lesser used DynoJet on 4/10 @ 10am for a couple hours. DB will run the dyno/car, and Vlad will be remoting into the car / laptop and doing the tuning remotely. Vlad did say it's not fully necessary to dyno as the street tune is already very much on point. He tuned Kerry's Supra here street only just like I've been doing, and he has yet to get on a dyno, just ran with the street tune and car ran great all last year, and ran mid-10's at the track last year on his first visit to a track ever. But well I want some numbers, lol!! And this will give us time to make any final tweaks on the dyno and see how the car measurably responds, and hopefully just maximize the setup as much as we can. Pretty pumped for that day to come!!

I do have a small tick list to get through before that day though. I'm going to plumb the BCS slightly different to hopefully help with the boost taper. Also try to get some of my boost leaks fixed. Also will be swapping in the new 1600cc injectors as well. And lastly will be installing a new catch can setup. So not a bad little list, should easily be able to get those done over the next 3 weeks. Also will be doing a few more street pulls before then, so car really should be damn near dialed in by then.

Excited and Anxious for 2017!!!


SIDE NOTE, Andrew you were asking about me scribbling out the HP. So I talked to Vlad a little about that. He actually said the displayed lb/min actually shouldn't be taken at face value. He said that calc is based off of injector data actually. With companies like ID, they provide so much data with their injectors that the value ends up being incredibly accurate and the HP can be directly calculated based off that. However with any other injector company (FIC, FID, etc), while they provide the data needed to tune the care in general, they don't provide the extensive additional details that ID does, so he can't say for sure if the number is as accurate until we actually get on a dyno and compare. So that was interesting. The premium price of ID's in part comes from all of that extra data they have derived and include with their injectors. So while my numbers are decently accurate, we don't really know until we actually get on the dyno.

[URV8SUX]

Well since the air flow isnt actual air flow I would be doing a boost leak to see if thats why the turbo is dropping boost. What are you using for a boost contoler for boost? Maybe a waste gate actuator or back pressure would be a good investment. There are some other things you could don't force the turbo to spinn faster to see if its maxed out or not, I'm sure your tuner know how to do that.

[Halon]

Thanks for the feedback. Right now boost control consists of a single 40mm Turbosmart WG with 18psi spring pressure. Then I have a 3-port MAC valve wired to AEM, and connected to the WG like in the diagram on the left in this link:

http://aemelectronics.com/files/instructions/30-2400%20Boost%20Control%20Solenoid%20Kit.pdf


I'm pretty sure that I'm reaching the limits of this turbo, so yes I completely agree that any boost leaks are not great when you start approaching the limits of the turbo itself. Over-speeding it probably puts me off the maps efficiency islands, and mechanically probably isn't very good for the bearings and what-not. And I know I have some boost leaks.

I think I can get the piping leak fixed easily. I think there's a pinhole in the BOV flange weld. Momin has been talking about helping me redo the entire piping on that side anyway because the current piping on that side in general is a bit janky anyway, so that will take care of that one. Then there are two leaks at the two small vacuum fittings on the bottom of the intake manifold, which is another very annoying story that I won't get into. I can try and address those next, but they are not easy to access being on the bottom of the intake. If it ends up requiring me to remove my intake, then meh I dunno it might not happen before dyno day. The last leak is at the TB shaft. I guess it's common with some cheaper billet TB's. No idea what brand or anything this is as it was given to me, but I assume it probably falls into the 'cheaper' category. Unless there is a really easy fix, really easy seal or something, that's not something I really want to dig into at the moment, or in general spend much time and money on. Reason being is after this season is over, I'm getting rid of it as I will be converting to a DBW setup. So not worth it to me to spend tons of money or time fixing this one, or buying another, because after this year it's gone!

[turbotalon1g]

Congrats dude, very happy for you.

[Halon]

Gotta love unplanned expenses. New OEM Supra front lower control arms. And new Moog front upper control arms. Should help it ride better and let me get the front aligned better now.

http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16436&stc=1&d=1490467482