91 Galant VR4

[goodhart]

Would one of those crank scrapers help in this type of situation? Maybe it would keep the oil down in the pan better? Also, I think tpunx99gsx has/had one of those Moroso oil pans on his 1g, not sure if he still has it.

[Halon]

That sucks, but an awesome carnage picture for sure!

What pistons were you running if you don't mind me asking? I ask because you mentioned the skirt/pin area showing signs of cracks, and I can't help but wonder if they were Wiseco's which people are seeing that same thing happen to occasionally.

[Pushit2.0]

I will take a few more picks tonight. The oil pump is shot due to air in the oil, no balance issues as its driven from the timing belt.

The Rod bearings just look worn from having a heavy crower rod spinning to 10,000rpm(logs show between shifts the motor would free rev to 10,000rpm).

They are Wiseco pistons, but I think my cracking issues is from the block moving around as much as it did. Ok I was miss understanding where they were known to crack, but I have the same issue as this thread.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/371728-my-terrible-experience-wiseco.html

All 4 pistons are cracked where the skirt blends into the wrist pin boss, only on the front side of the piston as they sit in the car. I think my piston to wall is somewhere around .005, I will check tonight.

I am thinking of fabricating an oil pan, making a crank scrapper and windage tray.

And I will be filling most of the water jacket with hard block, as a 4g63 sits there is 5" of un supported cylinder wall to flap in the breeze. So I am thinking of filling all but 2 1/2" or so with hard block to keep things straight and less cracked.

As of now I am looking into switching to CP pistons and have looked at aluminum rods. That would come down to if I can sell the Crower rods I have now.

~John

[turbotalon1g]

Those pics make me :crapper:

It seems you are going to some extremes for 700whp, there are a shit ton of people nationally making similar power, maybe they can help?

Good luck, you are def. going down a rough path, but I'm glad to hear you plan on blazing down that bitch.

Keep up the hard work we are rooting for you.

[Pushit2.0]

The only reason I am looking at the extremes is this is pump gas hp at low boost. At some point I plan to run E98 and turn up the boost, but I want to get the bugs worked out at the track.

I plan to talk with anyone I can about this next motor build, things have come a long way in the last few years even. I started buying parts for this last motor build 6 years ago.

~John

[Pushit2.0]

I just re checked and my piston to wall clearance was .005-.006". I do not recall the main or rod bearing clearance, but I would guess it was .0010-.0012", spec is .0008-.0020" on both.

Here are the pics of the cracks and bearings, the mains look good:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_33170_5_.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_33174_9_.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_33179_14_.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_33180_15_.jpg


~John

[Pushit2.0]

A few updates on the never ending build. I have 2 blocks for the car for next year, one will be the new race motor, and the other will be the backup motor.

We just finished doing a partial fill on a block and machine work for the Crower rods and Wiseco pistons to go into. I just need rings and clean/paint the block and that motor is ready for assembly.

Then the good news, I am getting custom CP pistons, and custom Carillo rods for the new race motor. Which will have a lot more hard block then the back up motor.

The pistons are custom designed for this setup, the piston is more like a clover shape in the bore for better piston stability, It will have a 22mm HD wrist pin, and added strength from the shelf part to handle the high boost, high hp, and high rpm I plan for this setup. It will also have a new wrist pin lock and tool that is supposed to be easy to install and take apart.

The rods will be a straight H beem, a 22mm pin bore on the small end, and be the right width on the big end to fit the 6 bolt crank shaft, and the top of the line rod bolts, Multiphase TM (285,000 UTS).

I will post some pics tomorrow, and let you know when the shinny new parts show up.

~John

[turbotalon1g]

Sounds like a lot of custom stuff, are you looking to be able to hit more hp than last time?

[Pushit2.0]

I have to dyno the car again, it will be on E98 with more fuel pump and injector then last time. So I want to start right about were it was at last time, then up the boost a few times and see where it goes, if I get 800awhp I would be happy.

Then go back to the track with the current power level and get the chassis setup, then up the power as needed.

~John

[Pushit2.0]

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_021.jpg

The parts are here.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_024.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_007.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_008.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_009.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_011.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_018.jpg

Here are the rods and pistons up close. The pistons have a grove at the top of the compression ring and 4 gas ports to let cylinder pressure to the back side of the compression ring. They have the 22mm HD wrist pin, and the new SS wire lock with install tool that holds the wrist pin and is really easy to install/remove the locks. The rods are a straight H beam design and use 3/8" CARR rod bolts, this should hold the rod cap even at 10,000 rpm, or more.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_039.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_040.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_041.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_042.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_043.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_046.jpg

This is the new block in the first stages of machining. The new CP pistons are .020 over, I am going to fill most of the water jacket with hardblock Monday after work. The block and caps are reamed out for the cap pins. After the hard block is in, I put the torque plate on then its into the V30 for decking, and boring of the cylinders. Then line hone and finish hone with diamond brushes. Then I will spend a few hours with a die grinder cleaning up the inside of the block. Then I want to make a crank scraper, and windage tray if there is room in the stock oil pan.

I will be ordering the few parts I need later this week to get the car up and running. I should be starting assembly of the motor in the next few weeks. Then its off to the dyno on E98 to make about the same power as last year, then to the track to get a good 60 foot time going.

The new parts:
Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump
FIC Blue max 2150 injectors
felpro perma torque head gasket
new oil pump
misc gaskets for the engine

~John