91 Galant VR4

[Matt D.]

http://www.mitsustyle.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28089

Check out some of the parts I have for sale.

~John
Does this mean you are calling it quits or what is the plan?

[Halon]

Goin Auto?

[C3L1CA]

I am selling to help fund the new motor build, then I will save up to build this same tranny again, or a dog box.


I also thought he was selling all that random stuff to help fund his motor build.


Good luck on everything John! This car is beast and it was fun to see it in action on the dyno and at the track. Hope all goes smooth with the future plans for it and you can get your 9 second pass in!

[Pushit2.0]

Does this mean you are calling it quits or what is the plan?

lol, there is NO WAY I could call it quits, even if I wanted to. I have a ton of money and time into a car that runs a 10.06 only makes 650awhp.

I was asked how I have kept going this hole time at the dyno day. All I said was "I took a really long break".

I looked at what I have invested, what I can easily replace in the setup, and what I can possibly up grade over this winter.

So I posted stuff that was a little light on the build, and stuff that I can just buy again come EARLY spring and get the car back up and running.

I will say this, I have a plan for bigger/better on everything I posted up for sale. This car will be running on E98 even if its at the same boost as now or not, I will have some form of the 2200cc injectors, a fuel pump that can handle a 1000+ awhp, it will have the same or better manual tranny, it will have the same or better tires, and the race seat is an up in the air thing right now.

I am also going over the idea of the 25.5 chassis and really coming in hard next season. As in expect another 200lbs off the car, a chassis legal for a 7.50@180 and another 300awhp on tap plus nitrous.

But for now the goal is only to take the galant VR4 record, I have the trap speed wrapped up on pump gas, with a few more passes with a good track I know I can get the ET, but if I can shatter, and by shatter I mean a good second or better, then I might have to take it.

~John

[badinblack]

I like it when people have ambitious goals. Get it done.

[mlomker]

hard block most of the water jacket

This strengthens the motor but makes it harder to cool? I'm guessing that drag motors can get away with it since they aren't running as long.

[Pushit2.0]

I know V-8 guys do partial fills all the time, and a lot of them road race there cars. For the most part the oil does more cooling for the short block, and you still have water flow in the head, and the top part of the bore where the majority of the heat is created. They also add something to the hard block that helps it dissipate heat. I will install an oil cooler to help keep the oil temp under control.

~John

[Goat Blower]

There's more than a few hardblocked DSM's running around on the street.

[Pushit2.0]

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_32173.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_32175.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_32189.jpg

Here is the damage. It looks to me like some casting lines on the water jacket side of the #2 cylinder wall caused the crack. The cylinder wall measures about .175-.195". So with the 5" of un supported cylinder wall they were moving all over and the casting line made the cylinder wall a little thinner and had stress risers, thus the crack.

It looks like the #3 and #4 were doing the same thing. The pistons have cracks where the piston skirt blend into the wrist pin boss. The Rod bearings have seen better days, but they were standard Kings, I will be running ACL race series with a special coating with the new motor. The main bearings look great, and the oil pump/front cover is junk after 300miles.

It looks like I am getting air in the oil, so I will be doing some oil control around the crank and oil pan, and I will port the oil pressure releaf hole a little more.

Now I have the parts needed to put the hard block in, then I need to make a parts list then start machining.

~John

[niterydr]

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_32173.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_32175.jpg
http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/612/medium/Canon_photos_32189.jpg

Here is the damage. It looks to me like some casting lines on the water jacket side of the #2 cylinder wall caused the crack. The cylinder wall measures about .175-.195". So with the 5" of un supported cylinder wall they were moving all over and the casting line made the cylinder wall a little thinner and had stress risers, thus the crack.

It looks like the #3 and #4 were doing the same thing. The pistons have cracks where the piston skirt blend into the wrist pin boss. The Rod bearings have seen better days, but they were standard Kings, I will be running ACL race series with a special coating with the new motor. The main bearings look great, and the oil pump/front cover is junk after 300miles.

It looks like I am getting air in the oil, so I will be doing some oil control around the crank and oil pan, and I will port the oil pressure releaf hole a little more.

Now I have the parts needed to put the hard block in, then I need to make a parts list then start machining.

~John


Awesome carnage.

With the oil pump/front cover being trashed after 300 miles, is there a harmonic balance issue similar to what we were running into with the 6g72? Was something out of balance? (clutch? balancer?)
If memory serves correct you were revving to just shy of 10,000 rpm?
The air in the oil would make sense with that high of rpm and the oil pan design. More baffles and perhaps knife edging the crank will help keep the oil down and not being thrown around. Have you thought about trying to run a deeper oil pan and modifying the pickup? Get the oil away from that flailing crank may help with windage issues.

Do you have any pictures of the rod bearings? I am wondering if they were wiped out from oil contamination/air in the oil or if it was an rpm/moving part issue. However, like you mentioned, the Kings are a great standard duty (but “soft” bearing), the tri-coated ACL race series (the black ones) are a much better option for the severity you are putting that 4g63 through.

Are you planning to do a partial hard block now?

"Stay in it"

:)