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Kracka
06-19-2014, 01:03 PM
Like I said I would not run 20W-50 in a daily/street driven DSM personally. I run 5W-30 in mine, and mines a summer only driven street car here. If you're concerned about the higher temps, then like I said consider going up to say a 5W-40 or 10W-40. If you're really wanting to make a science experiment out of it, get an oil temp gauge as that will be the best tool to tell you what weight to get for your application.

Remember that your oil doesn't even get to operating temp until you've been driving say 20-30 minutes under normal conditions. So if you're just taking 20-30 minute trips, your oil is barely even making it to it's operating weight anyway.
I couldn't agree more. Your coolant gets up to temp about 10 miles before your oil will. My current commute is 7 miles one-way and the coolant is up to full temp after about 2 (210-220F), but the oil never gets there (full temp on my oil is 220-230F). The C7 Z51 holds 10 quarts, but it does have a heat exchanger that warms the oil with hot coolant.

Goat Blower
06-19-2014, 01:58 PM
Already have am idea on that, and its the fact that 1/2 of the coolant lines are gone. And the water pipe behind the turbo is just welded shut at the end so its not a flow through system there, instead it just hits a wall and then has to reverse course I guess causing extra time getting heated by the turbo.

What? The end of your water pipe is the return to the radiator, if you don't have that, I'd drop your car off at the previous owner's house immediately, because he's a moron.

Getting rid of the heater core is no big deal, I didn't have one for years, never had a temp issue.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m17/19Eclipse90/1G_CoolantHoseRouting.jpg

goodhart
06-19-2014, 04:19 PM
I think he meant the portion that connects to hoses 36/37 in that pic is blocked off.

SlowWhite
06-19-2014, 06:20 PM
Here are the picts of what im talking about. And I haven't asked Shane Phillips personally but previous owner said shane did this to the car.

SlowWhite
06-19-2014, 06:23 PM
The end of the water pipe (red picture) is welded shut. The other picture is the weld of the thermostat housing that is actually on the car.

To be honest I havent even followed the coolant lines to see how its all done. Been so focused on tune issue. (I may talk like I multitask but reality is im pretty single minded till a task is done)

I have already inquired about replacing all the coolant system so its reverted back to stock and all the parts aren't even $120 from the guy in north carolina. this is on my to do list like stated several times.

SlowWhite
06-19-2014, 06:33 PM
Here is the picture of the lower radiator hose... found a pict I took the day after I got it.

SlowWhite
06-19-2014, 06:39 PM
I must have clearly missed something here the thermostat housing in the diagram doesnt look anything like the one in the picture of my car? Or am i just not seeing it?

Is the one on my car from a different year or something?

typeRA
06-19-2014, 06:45 PM
I'm currently at USCA for another week. If you want another pair of eyes on it, hit me up. I've got everything with me for tuning besides a tactrix.

TkrPerformance
06-19-2014, 06:52 PM
120 for what the water pipe and t.stat housing. If so that is a total rip off. I have them posted in my clean up sale for 30.00

typeRA
06-19-2014, 06:54 PM
I must have clearly missed something here the thermostat housing in the diagram doesnt look anything like the one in the picture of my car? Or am i just not seeing it?

Is the one on my car from a different year or something?
what youve pictured is that the turbo water feed system is capped off. why? the holsets don't use water jackets.

this will have no bearing on the problems you're having whatsoever.