Potential Buy 1997 GSX

[SlowWhite]

Logs from last night posted. More rain/thundershowers today so no work done other then going to the store to get a spark plug gap ring, correct socket, and stuff for a coolant flush.

I remembered today that I had taken the cop out to check the spark plugs just prior to the car dieing regularly. And was wondering should I have put dielectric grease or what ever its called on the plugs?

I am planning on stopping back at the auto parts store tomorrow to see of they have some. Some of what I read about cop setups say it helps a lot.

I also noticed last night that the car would stay in I believe its called "open loop... .80" for ever before going back to "closed loop" car ran great in open loop. But as soon as it went to "closed" is when id have the hesitation or fuel issues.

Any rate that's all the update for now.

[turbotalon1g]

open loop vs closed loop is WOT tables vs cruise tables. I'm not sure which one is which I always confuse them when talking about it.

But once you go past a certain throttle % at a certain load point and RPM it will target your direct access table values.

[asshanson]

Open loop disregards the oxygen sensor and goes off the table values (for high throttle, first bit after starting the car, etc).
Closed loop is using o2 feedback to make the AFR more rich or more lean. If it's consistently lean or rich, this will turn into a long term fuel trim adjustment.

If it's only running like crap in closed loop, take a look at the long and short term fuel trim and o2 volts, maybe your sensor is going out. Did you say you have a wideband simulating a narrowband?

[SlowWhite]

Open loop disregards the oxygen sensor and goes off the table values (for high throttle, first bit after starting the car, etc).
Closed loop is using o2 feedback to make the AFR more rich or more lean. If it's consistently lean or rich, this will turn into a long term fuel trim adjustment.

If it's only running like crap in closed loop, take a look at the long and short term fuel trim and o2 volts, maybe your sensor is going out. Did you say you have a wideband simulating a narrowband?

I dont have my laptop with me but memory serves me yes its using the "wideband simulating narrowband" I believe that box is checked.
And which ever loop it is. The one when you go wot.... itll stay in that loop for ever. Last night ot stayed in the loop for probably 5min of normal cruising after I did a light pull. And actually it would go back into the wot loop even if I was still cruising.

I posted that whole log from startup till I got home on ecmlink. Its my last post on that thread.

[dsmghost]

If your car intermittently gets stuck in open loop you have a problem. If you haven't already done so, post a log of it happening. It's likely one of your sensors causing the issue. You mentioned when it does go in closed loop it runs bad, which also likely points a feedback sensor issue.

I feel bad for your situation, no offense. Nobody around to help, lots of problems, and many threads asking for help about countless problems. Somebody gives you good advice or helps solve a problem, then your onto the next issue without resolving any prior issues it seems. Not trying to be a dick, keep asking questions, but work on one thing at a time and stop daily driving your car if you are until it's all straightened out.

[SlowWhite]

If your car intermittently gets stuck in open loop you have a problem. If you haven't already done so, post a log of it happening. It's likely one of your sensors causing the issue. You mentioned when it does go in closed loop it runs bad, which also likely points a feedback sensor issue.

I feel bad for your situation, no offense. Nobody around to help, lots of problems, and many threads asking for help about countless problems. Somebody gives you good advice or helps solve a problem, then your onto the next issue without resolving any prior issues it seems. Not trying to be a dick, keep asking questions, but work on one thing at a time and stop daily driving your car if you are until it's all straightened out.

That's exactly what I told the wife after last night. I won't be taking it to work anymore, just isnt safe/reliable until i get these issues straight.

Also i posted logs from each day. From when in first started having issues all the way till yesterdays logs which had every issue all rolled into one long log.

[SlowWhite]

well went out today and changed plugs, checked oil, checked coolant. Oil level is good coolant level is good and onto the plugs, the plugs that were a nice grey color a few days ago when i checked are now completely black, and the gapping on all of them was at .22

I gapped the new plugs to .28 then noticed the oil catch can had a little mist of oil below the filter so i drained the catch can and noticed two things. First thing to come out was what i assume is water mixed with oil. To describe the amount of what ever this is before the oil started coming out. Is about 5 shot glasses worth, then oil started coming out. (there was enough oil in it to fill a standard size glass 3/4 of the way full) I dont know when the last time he emptied it so I cant say how long it took for that to fill up like that.

anyrate i then started the car turned on the log, let the car warm up completely, checked for any smoke coming out the exhaust or fluid, used a paper towel and noticed a black soot getting caught on the towel. Inside the exhaust tip is as black as the spark plugs. (i took pictures on my phone if you want me to upload the spark plug colors from a few days ago as well as them today) then I went for a quick drive, after pulling to the end of the driveway the car went into I believe "closed loop"... what ever setting it is after a wot pull only i never went WOT simply reversed out of the driveway.

And it died at the 2nd stop sign, so i adjusted the mafcomp a little bit and it didnt die again. However it would go in and out of this closed loop the entire trip.

Im about to put the log up on ecmlink. would the set up on the laptop cause this to not go into open loop? or is it more likely the wideband sensor going bad.

I was going to pull that and see what it looked like tomorrow as I have to get ready for work.

[Kracka]

Are there no professional tuners around you? I'm sure you've mentioned it already, I probably just missed it.

[Halon]

Understanding open loop vs. closed loop generically is pretty simple. It simply is referring to the ECU feedback loop (feedback being the O2 signal) either being open or closed.

Open Loop = No O2 feedback, the feedback loop is open/broken/not-in-use.
Closed Loop = O2 feedback, the feedback loop is now closed/in-use.

Stock narrowbands are calibrated to read stoich (14.7). So closed loop operation would be scenarios where you expect to be at 14.7. This would be idle, cruising, low load scenarios.

Open Loop would be when you don't want to be at 14.7, so you just hard set your tables to put you at say 11.5. So open loop would be scenarios you don't want to be at 14.7 and you want to be at something else. So WOT, heavy throttle, high load, cold start/warm up kind of scenarios. Times when you're running at 11.5 and the O2 is feeding back to the ECU saying "Hey your not stoich", the ECU says I don't care I don't want to be stoich right now so I'm ignoring your feedback.

Open and closed both use fuel tables. Closed loop just has the added benefit of O2 feedback so if for some reason your table doesn't put you right at that perfect stoich mixture, the ECU can detect that it's not stoich and can compensate based on that feedback.

[SlowWhite]

Ah so I have the termonology backwards.


Also is anyone viewing the logs im posted? My question is I know you can set up how and when the car switches between loops manually in the ecmlink software. (I read that when reading about doing cruise/closed loop logs) so maybe that is set wrong?

The other is would a faulty o2 sensor be a possible/likely cause of this (as I believe the wideband o2 is the only o2 on the car.