beaterX project thread - Page 40

turbotalon1g · 12-21-2010

^word. Congrats on having it back, but you probably shouldn't be driving it to its limits just yet.

Kevin 1G Drummer · 12-22-2010

Nice! Glad to see everything is going well!

**scheides** · 01-11-2011

1000 mile update! Well, 960 miles actually. Close enough, it'll roll over 1k tomorrow's commute. I changed the oil at ~530 miles, tish late b/c I had to give a buddy a ride home from work, and he lives in IGH, like 25 miles out of my way. It hadn't burned a drop of oil. I have continued to do vacuum pulls where I can and have done some light, 50% throttle pulls up to around 16psi and the car feels amazing.

MAP had the car for a week or so over xmas/new years (sidebar: best xmas ever? Got great gifts, a job offer, quit my current job, flew to vegas and then got stuck there for New Year's eve. Win!) for some prototyping their o2 dump downpipe but didn't manage to get the 4th bolt in holding the mani to the turbo. I am still a teensy bit peeved but meh, I will survive. Doesn't look like its leaking (yet). I'll find time to put it on sooner or later, but the last time I tried it was an impossible wh0re, even with two people wrenching with all their might.

Clutch is all broken in and the cams seem to idle almost perfect, they sometimes jerk ever-so-slightly when in traffic at 1500rpm but otherwise i can leave it in 1st or 2nd and no throttle input and the car does not buck what-so-ever! I love'em and can't wait to tune them for power.

MAP's recommendation is to leave dino oil in the motor until 1500 miles before switching to synthetic but others say that by 1000 miles the motor is where it's gonna be. I might as well wait a few more hundred miles before switching because with the shitty roads and Shane's schedule, I won't be ready for WOT for at least a few more weeks.

Now, the interesting part! I took a wrench to the car for the first time in a month tonight. Still no leaks that I can find (although Kyle@MAP said he saw a drop of coolant on that one stupid pipe off of the water pump) but I decided to swap in a fresh set of spark plugs, do a compression test, and yank the valvecover quick. I had been using lomker's HKS plugs he had problems with (do you still want these back or should I just give you cash for them Mike?), but interestingly enough the new OEM plugs I got at the dealer were pre-gapped to .021, quite tight IMHO (that's what she said).

Also did compression test: 155 158 154 153. Holy hell! When I got the car I tested it at about 135 across the board. These are supposed to be stock compression pistons, and from what I had read before about 140 is normal. Not sure what it means but I'm kinda pumped that the numbers are strong. If for some reason its kinda high b/c the compression ratio is off...well, I was thinking of going E85 anyways

Next I yanked the valvecover. I wanted to double-check the valve-tappet clearances before deciding to go buck wild with this engine. Mixed feelings about what I found. When I was done putting the motor together one of the intake tappets was .001" out of spec at .010 (spec is .008 +/- .001). It was on the loose side, I had it up to here with the whole car and said fuk it. Now it's at .012, and it probably explains why the valvetrain seems a tish noisy on a cold cold startup. Once warm it is not a problem, so I will consult a few people as to how bad this really is and likely just say FUK IT!

So so so so excited to really rip on this thing I cannot tell you! But, I'm in Minnesota, its cold as shit here now, and we are having one of the snowiest winters on record. Having fun none-the-less!

Rmondoh · 01-11-2011

Fantastic update Scheides! Good to hear that things are going great with beaterX!

turbotalon1g · 01-11-2011

Very nice.
E85 time join the goodness!!!

awd-drifter · 01-11-2011

niiiiiiiiiiiice update

**scheides** · 01-11-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

Very nice.
E85 time join the goodness!!!

Thanks but still a twinkle in my eye. It'll get a basic pump gas tune first and then who knows what will happen in the next few months. I have a new job with much better access to the good stuff, but the car would need fuel pump, injectors, and maybe a maf/intake upgrade at the very least. I'd be jumping right into needing a bigger/beefier fuel system, not just a wally and some pte 1000's for a cheap upgrade. We will see what happens come spring

**goodhart** · 01-11-2011

Awesome that the motor is so healthy man!! So, what mods do you have since last tuned other than the built motor (same compression right?) and the cams then?

**cmspaz** · 01-12-2011

I need a ride in this thing in snow mode. Rosey was raving about it when he visited me at work today!

**mlomker** · 01-12-2011

Quote:

do you still want these back or should I just give you cash for them Mike

Either way. Those plugs are fine on pump but I had weirdness on E85.

**scheides** · 01-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by goodhart

Awesome that the motor is so healthy man!! So, what mods do you have since last tuned other than the built motor (same compression right?) and the cams then?

Built motor, ported head w/ +1mm valves, Kelford cams, Buschur FMIC. Also the last time I was on shane's dyno I did not have the tubular manifold, so it will be verrrry interesting to see where it lands. I am trying HARD to tell myself to tune it very conservatively since its still winter, so if I can do that and see 360whp on pump I will be pretty happy. I still have dreams of 400 on pump, but with snow tires and nowhere to actually use it keeping it conservative is prolly the way to go. I can always turn up the boost and timing for the spring dyno day

A few x-factor thigns, bcs and higher rev limit. I have the mbc/bcs hybrid boost control setup now which should eliminate boost taper up top. Also, in both pump gas and race gas dynos last fall with the rev limiter set at 8000 power was still climbing at the rev limiter. With the built head, I'll be able to rev it much higher if I want to, so there may be some peak number gains there too. In the end both of these are only top-end gains but who knows what they might be, 5-15whp? Dunno, we'll see I guess!

turbotalon1g · 01-12-2011

Those new Jay racing or DW pumps would do you just fine.

**scheides** · 01-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

Those new Jay racing or DW pumps would do you just fine.

Yea, and the crazy thing is that even on pump gas I feel like I might be at the absolute limit of the DW800's so I thought about pulling the trigger earlier than later on the fuel pump. This would hopefully get me a little bit more headroom with them. In the end keeping the stock fuel pump in there will (hopefully) force me to keep the tune conservative.

**goodhart** · 01-12-2011

360 on pump with a quick spooling turbo would be nuts on teh corn. Heck, I wish I could make 360 on pump lol.

These 4b11's just seem to love to rev out like crazy huh?

turbotalon1g · 01-12-2011

360 on pump = :drool:, sadly I'm a few generations back and I think 260whp on pump would be where I would have to aim and fail at.

Fuck a conservative tune, well not a safe tune but you have a built motor and head so why not make the power it can, if want less turn it down.

Kevin 1G Drummer · 01-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

Fuck a conservative tune, well not a safe tune but you have a built motor and head so why not make the power it can, if want less turn it down.

You do realize he drives this every day and beats the piss out of it regularly, right? A "ragged edge" tune is not exactly ideal, even with his built bottom end.

turbotalon1g · 01-12-2011

I knew someone was gonna take that the wrong way.

I'm saying its a built motor I believe built to handle 700whp, so he can make 400-500 and be ok.

I think by keeping the stock pump he won't be keeping the tune conservative but more so the power levels, which he can control by just turning the boost down or having a hi-lo tune.

**Murlo26** · 01-12-2011

You always have such worth while updates Scheides, lol.

Awesome to hear man, I would assume you will hit 360whp not problem. a pump gas Fpred hit just over 350whp on Shanes dyno with a stock motor so i would assume you will easily hit that goal. Maybe even 400whp on pump...i think its possible but we will see I guess.

**mlomker** · 01-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by goodhart

These 4b11's just seem to love to rev out like crazy huh?

Why wouldn't a built 4G? You guys rarely build your bottom end so I suppose that's why people keep the revs down.

**scheides** · 01-12-2011

Heh all I meant was for this initial tune I'm gonna gun for about 25-26psi, see what it does with some timing and then go from there. If it responds super awesome then yes I'll be tempted to bump it up to 28 or so and push it a bit to see what it does, but at this point I just want a good solid base tune on there for daily abuse and then depending on what I do in the spring I'll turn up the wick a bit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlomker

Why wouldn't a built 4G? You guys rarely build your bottom end so I suppose that's why people keep the revs down.

The head dynamics on the 4G63 get worse and worse the older ones you get. It's way more common, to get good torque and then peak power at 6500-7000rpm or so, then fall off. Unless of course you have a big turbo with a big hotside.