Found My WOT Exhaust Leak: Why?

sleepydsm · 09-26-2010

***UPDATE**** RESOLVED: Really used and stretched ARPs were the cause of my headgasket failures. Head would lift at 30+ psi. I was running 37psi New studs fixed this issues***

Some Background:

Blew out my composite HG earlier this summer.

Replaced with another OEM
Week later a valley formed and peed coolant on t-belt side of cly. #1

I then replaced it with a Mitsu MLS, and had the head resurfaced.

2 weeks later, I start hearing an exhaust leak noise at WOT and High Load, CEL comes on for Knock.

Fixed a loose wastegate, and an exhaust leak. Still there. Pulled head today:

Evidence of Cylinder number 2 leaking combustion gas on the firewall and radiator side.

Black coloring on cylinder head, top and bottom of HG, and block. That area the headgasket when layed in a free state is bulging and has debris inbetween the layers.

I have been reusing standard ARPs that I got 3+ years ago, and have been retorqued many times.

Any idea why this happened?

**Kracka** · 09-26-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleepydsm

I have been reusing standard ARPs that I got 3+ years ago, and have been retorqued many times.

This is your problem.

sleepydsm · 09-26-2010

So they're most likely stretched? Wouldn't that affect all cylinders versus just one?

sleepydsm · 09-26-2010

I'll get some MAP/A1's I guess lol

Swifty1638 · 09-26-2010

LOL even I said swap those fuckers out one-by-one and boom..problemo solved-o.

Swifty1638 · 09-26-2010

some stretch more then others. There was a video on this, as well as testing arp's moly lube, the shit pro racer's use, and motor oil. How when we "torque" to 100 ft. lbs...it's not actually at 100, and such. You prolly just strained them all, and those for whatever reason have stretched and become weaker then the others.

FattyBoomBatty · 09-26-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swifty1638

some stretch more then others.

That's what she said.

Get one of those nice expensive head gaskets too. DSM owners are lucky that you can buy a gasket that makes o-ringing the block unnecessary.

4g63tcrazy · 09-26-2010

MAP/A1's and a new MLS and you will be golden. About time you learn your lesson!

blackawdtsi · 09-26-2010

Mitsu MLS are crap. There's only one MLS worth buying.

sleepydsm · 09-26-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackawdtsi

Mitsu MLS are crap. There's only one MLS worth buying.

Why?

Perma-Torque?

4g63tcrazy · 09-26-2010

He is full of crap. There is nothing wrong with the mitsu mls.

**scheides** · 09-26-2010

Exact same problem I had on my evo8, I'd rather buy new OEM head bolts than re-use arps. New ARPs or get some L19's.

**goodhart** · 09-26-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleepydsm

Why?

Perma-Torque?

It seems that perma-torque's are the type of headgasket that you do once, then forget about. That's the route I went. Although, my car hasn't run yet with it, many other seem to have great success with them. I have never heard one person say they are junk, while I have heard handfuls of people say that about the mitsu MLS. Again, this is just what I have heard.

Matt D. · 09-26-2010

I say OEM Mitsu headgasket, good new head studs and call it good.

Also, I'd take your head it and have it check for flatness, and possibly get a straight edge to check your block's flatness too.

**Kracka** · 09-27-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt D.

I say OEM Mitsu headgasket, good new head studs and call it good.

Yup. Head studs shouldn't be reused, period.

**goodhart** · 09-27-2010

A1's or L19's + Permatorque = done. It's been proven over and over.

sleepydsm · 09-27-2010

I know about the greatness of MLS gaskets. I have used the Mitsu MLS before. The perma-torque is great, I know.

I already checked the block for flatness, it appears to have a .002" variance which should be within spec.

ARP does not manufacture 6-bolt L19s anymore.

A1/Map and a Mitsu or Fel-Pro MLS.

Then Bye Bye car!

**Kracka** · 09-27-2010

Why not save the funds and get a new set of regular ARP's?

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 09-27-2010

Has it been knock a lot and blew it? You might want to make sure the head and block are perfectly flat, or else it might keep blowing in that spot.

sleepydsm · 09-27-2010

The first time it blew, was timing belt side of cylinder number 1. Then I slaped another one on, and it kinda failed in the same spot lol. So I had the head resurfaced, and I then It failed in the middle of cylinder number two.

Thanks MAP.

Permatorque and MAP studs at my doorstep when I get home from work (thanks to bribing a friend to pick it up for me).