best break in method

way2fastalon · 03-23-2010

yeah i have been lookin around about break in methods and i was questioning this one ..

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

correct me if im wrong but isnt that for bikes or small engines

i have a new engine and want to break it in right i only got about 30-40 miles on it ran it with out boost untill today hooked up the waste gate and ran it up and down my block. boost is at 5-10 psi

**Tachyon** · 03-23-2010

I just broke in a new engine last weekend. I already had a tune for the setup so I could get on it without worrying about running lean.

I first let the car warm up to operating temperature, then I did repeated full-load, full-throttle 3rd gear accelerations followed by engine breaking in the same gear (18 psi). I did this for 20 minutes and then brought the car back for systems check. I've since then put about 300 miles on the engine and it feels very very crisp. I need to do a compression check, but will probably put another 500 miles on it before doing so.

I like to give the engine lots of load in the initial 20 miles or so. After that, just normal driving (which is quite heavy (weekend toy))

GL with your engine.

93gtpeater · 03-23-2010

Take it to the track bounce it off the limiter and give it hell and hope for the best. Lol. Drive it nice and easy that should work. I have rebuilt a bunch of sleds and after a full tank of gas its good to go.

way2fastalon · 03-23-2010

forgot to say that it has spent some time idling trying to dial in the afr i think i might have got it down to a reasonble 12 -13.5 with 850s then with the 450s that it had ran super lean no matter what

but i think its good now
oil pressure is at 14-25 its at 14 at 750rpm and 25 at 1100 i think ill set it at 1100 id rather have 25psi than 14

dsmlink is nice but it would be better if i had a better idea what im doing

under boost my afrs were 10.0 10.1 to 5500 then let off in third
timing was at 30 deg i only got like one 3rd gear pull in then parked it
still breaks up at top end i dont know if to pull fuel or add i pull it gets a little better i add fuel it runs like shit i haven't touched the timing part of dsm link the only thing i touched was the fuel settings for the 850cc injectors

i would like some one to come over and give advice or drive being this is my first build and spent thousands on my engine maybe drive it / tune it have 93 bp in and a few $$ to spare to get a base tune so its drivable

**goodhart** · 03-23-2010

I would say very little boost if any, under ~5psi. Do a lot of vacuum pulls (ex. bring it through the gears being nice and easy on it, then let off the gas and let the motor slow the car down, downshifting along the way to pull the motor into vacuum.) I hear this seats the rings good, I have seen it work for others, and it has worked well for me also. The first miles are the most crucial, probably 0-20 or so are the most important for seating the rings. Also, let it go through a few heat cycles along this process. Don't go the whole 20 miles in one shot. Come back and let the engine cool down for an hour or so, then take it out again. Also try to drive at varying speeds, don't just get on the highway and set the cruise. DO all of this and you should have a happy and healthy motor.

**goodhart** · 03-23-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by way2fastalon

forgot to say that it has spent some time idling trying to dial in the afr i think i might have got it down to a reasonble 12 -13.5 with 850s then with the 450s that it had ran super lean no matter what

but i think its good now
oil pressure is at 14-25 its at 14 at 750rpm and 25 at 1100 i think ill set it at 1100 id rather have 25psi than 14

dsmlink is nice but it would be better if i had a better idea what im doing

under boost my afrs were 10.0 10.1 to 5500 then let off in third
timing was at 30 deg i only got like one 3rd gear pull in then parked it
still breaks up at top end i dont know if to pull fuel or add i pull it gets a little better i add fuel it runs like shit i haven't touched the timing part of dsm link the only thing i touched was the fuel settings for the 850cc injectors

i would like some one to come over and give advice or drive being this is my first build and spent thousands on my engine maybe drive it / tune it have 93 bp in and a few $$ to spare to get a base tune so its drivable

I also suggest not trying to tune it while breaking it in. Just break it in on a conservative tune and bring it to Shane and let him work his magic.

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 03-23-2010

To do a hard break-in, you need an all-motor setup or a conservative already done tune on a turbo car. Since, most guys doing a motor build on a turbo car, don't already have a tune for their new setup, that poses a problem. The last thing you want is any knock at all on brand new rings and you also don't want to be too rich. 0 psi is as much boost as those motorcycles would see during a hard breakin, so you don't have to exactly go ape shit with the boost.

If I am doing a break-in on the dyno, I try to very very quickly get my A/Fs in check and then either do a lot of vaccum pulls or go into the motorcycle style breakin, depending on what the customer wants to do. For cars that we did the motor on, I like to change the oil many times, do a lot hard vacuum pulls for a while, do some building up toward more aggressive pulls with very limited boost and limited RPMs with a lot of cooling breaks and then have the customer put some miles on the setup(if possible, not always possible on a race car) and then do the final tune later.

FattyBoomBatty · 03-23-2010

I did the motoman style break in this time but was working to get my AFR's richer as I did so it didn't get much more than 5 psi for the break in, but I did to a bunch of vacuum deceleration "pulls." Brought it back solved an oil leak and went back out for some adjustments and did more of the same. I agree with the motoman stuff about all the really important stuff happening right away, so I warmed it up and took it out and hoped for the best. It all worked, so I'm pretty happy, and it feels great for 8 psi.

btw, the last time I did it, I got a small part of the fuel map good enough to limp to DB and threw it on the dyno with maybe less than 20 miles on it.

What I want to know is about clutch break ins. Is it kind of like engines where they recommend 500 miles, but really it's only a few engagements?

way2fastalon · 03-23-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecoli

To do a hard break-in, you need an all-motor setup or a conservative already done tune on a turbo car. Since, most guys doing a motor build on a turbo car, don't already have a tune for their new setup, that poses a problem. The last thing you want is any knock at all on brand new rings and you also don't want to be too rich. 0 psi is as much boost as those motorcycles would see during a hard breakin, so you don't have to exactly go ape shit with the boost.

If I am doing a break-in on the dyno, I try to very very quickly get my A/Fs in check and then either do a lot of vaccum pulls or go into the motorcycle style breakin, depending on what the customer wants to do. For cars that we did the motor on, I like to change the oil many times, do a lot hard vacuum pulls for a while, do some building up toward more aggressive pulls with very limited boost and limited RPMs with a lot of cooling breaks and then have the customer put some miles on the setup(if possible, not always possible on a race car) and then do the final tune later.

good to know i was doing it right the first time had no boost all day and was bringing it up to 4000-5500 and letting the engine slow me down 2-4th gear ill pull the waste gate off again and do it the moto way cause i was doing that on the way to school and back with out boost im changing the oil again tomorrow 20w50 is what i have been using i did do the heat cycles i wasnt sure if it was ok to run with waste gate off but ill run it again tomorrow now do i bring it up to redline and slow down at what point do i do that .. ?

**Goat Blower** · 03-24-2010

I always just had a basic tune set up already, fire it up, check for leaks for about five minutes, then go out and drive it pretty easy getting up to about 60 mph and then let off the gas and do the vacuum pulls for a good part of the first 20 miles. Then I change the oil, drive it nicely with some normal boost pulls rough tuning it, change the oil at 100 miles, then bring it to Shane for a full tune.

Just got done buttoning up the bottom end on my new 2.0 shortblock, I'll be getting ready for breaking in a new engine again here soon. Spring has sprung.

Constant_Project21 · 03-24-2010

I have a question similar to this, and sorry if this is considered thread jacking.

I understand the process of breaking in a motor, but what about when you're breaking in a motor, AND a clutch? Say I toss a new shortblock, and a new clutch in my car, would the steps be different? I've heard ways to break in each individually, but dont think I've read anything regarding breaking in both at the same time.

**Goat Blower** · 03-24-2010

Both would be the same. Just drive it normal for 100 miles or so to bed the disk in and let her buck.

**scheides** · 03-24-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goat Blower

I always just had a basic tune set up already, fire it up, check for leaks for about five minutes, then go out and drive it pretty easy getting up to about 60 mph and then let off the gas and do the vacuum pulls for a good part of the first 20 miles. Then I change the oil, drive it nicely with some normal boost pulls rough tuning it, change the oil at 100 miles, then bring it to Shane for a full tune, then let it sit for another year

FTFY! tee hee

**mlomker** · 03-24-2010

I've been reading up on this (controversial) topic lately, for my own motor. Not a lot of agreement out there so obviously we're doing it how Shane wants it.

I do like Buschur at times, though: "Running an engine for 2,000 miles to break it in is complete bullshit. It's most companies ways of getting you to take 6 months to be ready to run the car hard and by then they hope the warranty is over."

Constant_Project21 · 03-24-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goat Blower

Both would be the same. Just drive it normal for 100 miles or so to bed the disk in and let her buck.

Okay sweet, thanks. I wasn't sure at all on that one. I will be breaking in a new clutch and motor, sometime in the near future, didn't want to do it wrong.

niterydr · 03-24-2010

If the vehicle is running well (tuned):

Idle to operating temperature. Check for leaks, make sure achieves operating temp. Change oil.

10-20 vacuum pulls to get rings seated. Then do part throttle tuning, change oil.

Let her buck.

Thats what I did for the full power/street cars that wanted a tune and break-in. Never an issue, hell John's galant was making over 600awhp with a few miles on the engine.

I've also done the drive for 5k until the engine breaks in method, BORING. OEM's run them and put them in the car, if the tune is G2G, start enjoying the car.

**Kracka** · 03-24-2010

In the factory Honda would fire up all brand new F20C (S2k engine) engines, rev them to 9k RPM to ensure all was well, shut them off, then away they went. Some S2k's went directly from the assembly line to the track to ensure they were performing to spec.

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 03-24-2010

AMS instructions
http://www.amsperformance.com/instru...structions.pdf

The Cosworth motors that I have done some break-in on the dyno come with some rediculous steps to go through. Like 10 minutes straight at X RPM making X ft/lbs of torque, then 20 minutes at X RPM and X ft/lbs, then 10 mins at X RPMs making X ft/lbs, and more.

Getting the A/Fs dialed in right away, doing a bunch of vaccum pulls and changing the oil a bunch of times seem to the most important things.