Which cams?

[Wizard]

That cam spec for the S2000 is after the VTEC solenoids have activated...

Remember, VTEC cams are in a sense....2 cams in one.

Personally, HKS have always been the cams to have. But, people have found others that are just as good if not better and cheaper.

BC cams have been fairly recent additions and seem to be everyone's fav at the moment with great power, and nothing but good things to say.

Crower (Not Brian Crower aka BC) need to stick to making NA cams as they have no idea how to make power in a turbo DSM. Not to mention lots of bad things about them like breaking. Sorry, but NO new cam should break.

Web was pretty good until they had a bad batch go thru and everyone stopped using them. They are still a good company imo.

FP cams use specs similar to the HKS and Crower grinds but offer several tweaks to make them more 'streetable' or basically more choices to get a grind that more matches your build.


There are a few others like Reed and such. But...my vote is BC, FP or HKS and at least a 272 grind, with 280 as a recc. And anything over 264 grind you will need spring/retainer upgrade. Not from the revs or rpms...but the lift of the cams will cause stock springs to bind.

Wiz

[JET]

Originally Posted by Wizard

Crower (Not Brian Crower aka BC) need to stick to making NA cams as they have no idea how to make power in a turbo DSM. Wiz

Crap, someone should have told my car it couldn't make any power because it has bad cams. I guess John's Galant doesn't make any power either.

On the 415's, I know my cam card is WAY bigger than what they advertised. John has the same cams and they did also. Do you remember what they were John? I have the card around somewhere, but the computer with the pic on crashed, so I don't have it and DSMStyle has been dumped since I posted it.

[Super Bleeder!!]

Originally Posted by Wizard

And anything over 264 grind you will need spring/retainer upgrade. Not from the revs or rpms...but the lift of the cams will cause stock springs to bind.

HKS 264s and 272s have the exact same lift. 9.8mm exh 10.2mm int

Im not so sure stiffer springs are required for HKS 280s either. At least i cant find any literature with them specifically saying YOU NEED SPRINGS TO RUN THIS CAM.

[Wizard]

Part # Description Duration @ .050" Gross Lift w/1.7
STOCK Stock Turbo Cam 174 / 165 .366" / .343"
HKS264 HKS 264 187 / 186 .392"/.374"
HKS272 HKS 272 195 / 195 .399"/.379"
546/547 Web Cams 206 / 206 .400"/.385"

I also found supposedly the actual spec cards from HKS:

264 Intake
Max Valve Lift - 10.3mm (0.4055")
Centerline at 0mm vavle lift 105 deg
Intake Valve timing at 1mm (0.0394")
Valve opens at 2 deg BTDC
Valve closes at 28 deg ABDC
Valve Centerline 105 deg (WRONG - 103 deg)
264 Exhaust
Max Valve Lift - 9.8mm (0.3858")
Centerline at 0mm vavle lift 117 deg
Exhaust Valve timing at 1mm (0.0394")
Valve opens at 42 deg BBDC
Valve closes at -12 deg ATDC
Valve Centerline 117 deg (CORRECT)

272 Intake
Max Valve Lift - 10.3mm (0.4055")
Centerline at 0mm vavle lift 105 deg
Intake Valve timing at 1mm (0.0394")
Valve opens at 6 deg BTDC
Valve closes at 32 deg ABDC
Valve Centerline 105 deg (WRONG - 103 deg)
272 Exhaust
Max Valve Lift - 9.8mm (0.3858")
Centerline at 0mm vavle lift 111 deg
Exhaust Valve timing at 1mm (0.0394")
Valve opens at 36 deg BBDC
Vavle closes at 2 deg ATDC
Vavle Centerline 111 deg (WRONG - 107 deg)

I cant find any stock valve spring coil bind limit, but guessing it would be around .450". And it would be a nice safe bet the the measly $200 on a basic upgrade springs/retainers would give you insurance. Not to mention, the stock springs are not new and their numbers have surely faded over time. IE: Weaker and more prone to break or bind. Bad time find to this out is after you put your multi$$$k motor together and first good pull over 6k and a valve fails to close in time.

Just upgrade and you'll be safe.

Wiz