Evo X upgrades - Page 78

**mlomker** · 10-10-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

I've seen quite a few vacuum lines blow off the BOV recently for whatever reason.

Every vacuum connection on the car is zip tied. I have an in-car fuel pressure gauge so that's an issue I'd notice right away. Without the fpr hose you'd be below 40psi at idle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by C3L1CA

It kind of sounds like a wiring problem to me.

That's something that I've spent time on since it doesn't cost anything. I have both pumps running off of Bosch relays with power right from the battery. Since the X battery is in the trunk, we're talking a couple feet from the 044 right now.

**Murlo26** · 10-10-2010

Suck man...so basically the new tank and redoing the lines didn't do anything?

I think trying a new 044 is a good idea....something has to be a miss. You have replaced everything essentially.

**scheides** · 10-10-2010

Hey what if your feed line (or the return line for that matter) is kinked or clogged somewhere? I think you had mentioned this being a possibility a while ago, just re-bringing it up. Get the car up in the air and inspect those suckers.

**Kracka** · 10-10-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlomker

Every vacuum connection on the car is zip tied. I have an in-car fuel pressure gauge so that's an issue I'd notice right away. Without the fpr hose you'd be below 40psi at idle.

Like I said, obviously not related to your fuel issue, but in the picture you can very clearly see the BOV vacuum line is not secured on the nipple. I never said anything about your FPR.

*edit*
Also...http://www.mitsustyle.com/forums/sho...&postcount=260

Speedfreak · 10-10-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlomker

On E85 or pump? When used inline with the in-tank pump or on its own, replacing the pump in the tank?

That's where things get tricky. Inline pumps flow more since they have fuel pushed to them rather than having to waste energy sucking it. E85 also needs 30%+ more fuel.

I've done a lot of Internet searching this last week and opinions vary a great deal. The most solid data I've seen is a guy that did 730whp on pump with a 044 that replaced his in-tank. That's comparable to what I'm doing (except my fuel tank is a small surge tank).

730 * .70 = 511.

Shane's dyno is about 12-13% lower than a typical Dynojet.

511 * .88 = 450.

That's still less than I'm getting by a meaningful margin. The problem is that I don't want to get stuck with TWO 044's that are worthless to me. I wonder if anyone has an 044 that they could lend me for a couple days.

This was on pump, and in the tank as a replacement.

**mlomker** · 10-10-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

Like I said, obviously not related to your fuel issue, but in the picture you can very clearly see the BOV vacuum line is not secured on the nipple. I never said anything about your FPR.

I'll take another look the next time I'm down there. The nipple on that particular BOV is gigantic and it's tough to get the line on it (which also makes it unlikely to come off).

Quote:

Originally Posted by scheides

Hey what if your feed line (or the return line for that matter) is kinked or clogged somewhere?

I just replaced all of the lines on Friday when the surge tank was installed--nearly 35 feet of braided hose (cha-ching).

The only lines I had wondered about were the hard lines from the fuel tank area up to the engine bay. Obviously that's improbable but we did find a fair bit of that black goop on the injectors at one point.

**mlomker** · 10-12-2010

Just got back from a brainstorming session with speedfreak (Momin). It was fascinating and led down a path that I hadn't considered.

The X's battery is in the trunk. I figured, 'great', that means I can just hook my fuel pumps up to the battery and it's a nice short cable run. The flaw in that thinking is that when a car is running the power doesn't come from the battery -- it comes from the alternator in the engine bay. Doh!

My next step is going to be to wire my fuel pumps up car stereo-style. I'll run a 4ga from the engine bay to the trunk and use power and ground distribution blocks for the devices related to fuel pumps.

badinblack · 10-12-2010

humm. Not to rain on your parade but when the car is running you should have an even system voltage (about 14.7V) even to the batt. in the trunk, right?

**mlomker** · 10-12-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by badinblack

(about 14.7V) even to the batt. in the trunk, right?

I've owned quite a few cars over the years and they were all 13.8v when the alternator is working.

There are a lot of smart guys on Style and I don't know most of you. Momin ran a shop for a decade and was once Shane's employer so I think it's worth testing that theory. Worst that could happen is that I end up with some baller pump wiring.

turbotalon1g · 10-12-2010

I'm at 14.1 at idle

**mlomker** · 10-12-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

I'm at 14.1 at idle

So you have a bad voltage regulator, want a medal? I've installed an upgraded car stereo in every car that I've owned before the Evo, including the BMW. Every single one of them was 13.8v.

There are lots of things about cars that I don't know shit about but I'm pretty good with stereos and wiring.

badinblack · 10-12-2010

Either way, you will end up with some baller wiring. A new alt should produce anywhere from 13.7 to 14.7v (I test on average 2 a day) but it wont matter how much it is putting out if it's not getting to the pump. I see the thought.

**mlomker** · 10-12-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by badinblack

A new alt should produce anywhere from 13.7 to 14.7v (I test on average 2 a day)

Alright bro, I'll take your word for it. I've owned six cars and they were all different brands, every one of them read 13.8 and I've obviously owned quite a few multimeters over the years. Maybe it depends on where you measure it from.

I'd urinate on my trunk if I thought it'd fix my fueling problem.

Speedfreak · 10-12-2010

Just testing theories here guys. At this point most everything else has been tried with no success. And a few things he mentioned led me to think that getting power closer to the Alt may be worth a shot. That and I'm not sold on the grounds being used, but we'll see how this all goes then go from there.

BTW, he mentioned late in our conversation that Buschur instructs to get power from the engine bay for his fuel pump install, coincidence? Maybe not.

If this doesn't work, then it's time to borrow a Bosch 044 from someone local to test. If nobody else has one freely available, I'll take mine out of my gsx and let him borrow it.

One thing at a time..

**cmspaz** · 10-13-2010

I'm going to give another +1 to the 13.8 to 14.7 range being fine. I test a few per week, and our test bench passes everything inside that range.

Swifty1638 · 10-13-2010

I can also confirm that issue, as I had fuel issues on the dyno this last session, before rewiring my pumps to get power straight from the battery in the trunk. What is Gate's doing? Who else is at these power levels?

Talk to teheodi on here..he's got a bosch 044, unless it was stolen from someone else.

311evo · 10-13-2010

Jesus Lomker, cool your ego when someone mentions something different then your opinion. You say it like it's fact, but it's not. Just try your theory, it seems very unlikely considerig how the BAP made it act before. Re-do your ground just to be sure to begin with.

A lot of these people have done plenty of work with batteries I'm sure. You've owned 6 cars, in the famous words of yourself, want a medal? I worked on everything that has to do with voltage in a car for most of my working life, about 5 years combined. And I would say I see most cars average 13.5-14.2 like it's nothing. Maybe get a more sensitive multimeter?

**mlomker** · 10-13-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swifty1638

before rewiring my pumps to get power straight from the battery in the trunk. What is Gate's doing? Who else is at these power levels?

Talk to teheodi on here..he's got a bosch 044, unless it was stolen from someone else.

Wiring isn't glamorous enough to discussed in magazines so I have no idea what Gates does.

You have your pumps right on the battery in the trunk? That's what I have now. What was your setup before?

Like speedfreak mentioned, Buschur has people tap up in the engine bay for his double-pump kit. BlaqOPs doesn't really offer advice but I tapped the positive feed to the fuse box under the dash when I put that in.

The ground I am currently using for the Bosch is about an inch from the battery's ground.

I get sick of typing all this crap since it's almost too much to say, much less type. Suffice to say the pump works 'better' off of the positive feed from the engine bay (the car's relay) than it does from the battery, which is a part of the thinking with running a new positive from the engine bay power terminals (closer to the alternator).

Quote:

Originally Posted by 311evo

Jesus Lomker, cool your ego when someone mentions something different then your opinion.

Yeah, sorry guys. I'm burned out on this.

**Kracka** · 10-13-2010

Good luck...I'd love to see one of these fixes you're trying solve the problem!

turbotalon1g · 10-13-2010

x2 with 311, I was providing more info incase you were worried about any fluctuation.

I was not aware I was dealing with an electronics expert.