1997 GSX - DD, RR, and 11's.

[asshanson]

Aftermarket oil pan is a decent idea if you plan to track the car, the baffles and larger capacity both help. But you only get an oil temp port, there is no oil pressure in the pan, you'd still have to run that off the oil filter housing or external cooler or something.

[SlowWhite]

Aftermarket oil pan is a decent idea if you plan to track the car, the baffles and larger capacity both help. But you only get an oil temp port, there is no oil pressure in the pan, you'd still have to run that off the oil filter housing or external cooler or something.

The goal for this car wasn't really for it to be my DD, it was to be a replacement for my bike, and be my Road Race car that I used with my brother when he travels down this way to race (VIR and CMP)

I plan to install an oil cooler for sure and will more then likely go with the Moroso pan.

I just haven't settled on which way I'm going to install the Oil cooler . I've thought about changing up the OFH to the one that has everything I need like mark suggested in my other thread I think it was. I just haven't done enough research yet.

The other option is to use the pan for the Oil temp, drill and tap a hole for the oil pressure (per several write ups)on my FFOFH, and then use a sandwich adapter for the oil cooler.

[SlowWhite]

Well today was a productive day on the car.

removed the turbo system from the car, and from there i was able to remove 3 of the 4 bolts with out issues (help of PB blaster) the 4th one I had to grind down the top till it was 1/2 gone (disc wouldn't reach any farther) so was hoping a pair of vice grips might be able to brake it off the rest of the way (turns out heat of the grinding must have loosened up the bolt as it unscrewed) at the very end I found the reason why it was so hard to remove, previous owner cross threaded the bolt.

So luckily I have a full die and tap set, and was able to re tap the hole to the correct thread size/pattern.

I also found that the lower middle three studs for the exhaust manifold were missing there nuts/washers. So replaced those as well.

And when trying to remove the airlines from the waste gate I found that both lines going to it had become brittle and had holes in them. One was so bad it had 3 holes in it and the only thing keeping it attached to the WG was the string inside the rubber.

So replaced/checked all the lines that needed replacing.

Did find one thing I'm concerned about. There was small amount of oil on the exhaust manifold to head gasket around most of the ports. I checked the lower I/C pipe for oil but it was clean/dry. So what does that mean? valves? rings?
I have only seen minor smoke when starting a WOT pull from time to time (thought it was just smoke from running rich, but now I'm not sure)
Tomorrow I'm going to do a compression test as well as see if there is oil on the plugs.

[goodhart]

On the bottom middle exhaust stud that comes out of the head is an oil galley. If you dont rtv that stud, it will do this.

[SlowWhite]

Well still no luck on figuring out why I can non longer boost over spring pressure with out it sputtering. (And even then sometimes its still splitters on occasion)

Over the weekend I pulled the valve cover just to see I could find anything.
Nothing looked out of place, took pictures of the hks cams, spring and retainers, as well as the kiggly piece. I also checked torque on the head studs and to my surprise at 70 they all turned. So torque Them to100.

Drove into work but still same old same old. At a loss om what to do.

Been contemplating getting
-injectors flow tested/cleaned
-new a/f sensor

Other then that id like to check the timing. But what's easier/possible.
To pull the motor or can I take the covers off while its in the car?

[Kracka]

What headstuds? 100 ft/lbs is a lot of torque. You can check the timing marks with the engine in the car (no different than doing a timing belt job).

[SlowWhite]

Arp's - believe they are just standard though. All searches I read said 85 with lube and then 100 if you are retorquing w/just oil.

My guess is the owner said he just finished having the rings done on the car and only put 1500miles on the motor since or something like that. And from what I was reading you are supposed to check torque again after break in which I dont think was done.

Forgot to add I was thinking about possibly getting a mbc also as I've seen weird readings from that as well on link from my ebc. Logs were posted in my tuning thread where you can see all this stuff happening.

And ive never done a timing job. I used to pay john from lse to come down and do it. So this will be another first when the time comes.

[asshanson]

Taking the covers off to check timing isn't that difficult. Several screws are different lengths, so make sure you mark exactly where each one goes when you take them out.
If you have a 1g style adjustable CAS you should also check base timing with a timing light to make sure it's 5* BTDC. Several threads on how to do this by grounding timing through link. You'll need the lower timing cover on for this part.

Edit: or use this method if you dont want to set timing with the lower cover: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-set-base-timing-without-using-a-lower-timing-cover.312350/

[SlowWhite]

Taking the covers off to check timing isn't that difficult. Several screws are different lengths, so make sure you mark exactly where each one goes when you take them out.
If you have a 1g style adjustable CAS you should also check base timing with a timing light to make sure it's 5* BTDC. Several threads on how to do this by grounding timing through link. You'll need the lower timing cover on for this part.

Edit: or use this method if you dont want to set timing with the lower cover: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-set-base-timing-without-using-a-lower-timing-cover.312350/

This car is using a 1997cas.... (6bolt block / 2ghead combo) but will read up on it and hopefully get this checked this coming weekend.

[talonsway]

Well still no luck on figuring out why I can non longer boost over spring pressure with out it sputtering. (And even then sometimes its still splitters on occasion)


My talon would always break up due to the inverted CAS. Switched over to a 1g cas and set the base timing and never had another issue dont know if this is the problem in your case, but i would think it would be smart to look into like mentioned above. great build so far !!