1997 GSX - DD, RR, and 11's.

[Goat Blower]

Now that I look at it, I agree 100% with Halon. The biggest thing I learned about going huge 10 years ago is that it's not needed anymore unless you want 4-figure horsepower. All of those things are a waste of money and usually a huge pain in the ass. Less is more.

I've got almost all Evo 3 parts except for a built 2.4 shortblock now and it's the most fun it's ever been, even on pump gas. I'm also looking more at road racing as time allows, 1/4 mile maybe once in a great while, but mostly a fun street car that's damn reliable.

[SlowWhite]

I have to agree with Halon, I'd skip the piping, fuel rail, intake manifold, throttle body, etc. You already have a lot of power, and those are just going to shift the powerband further up, making it less fun on the street and road course imho. Don't want a laggy car coming out of a slow corner.

I had the Tokiko HP shocks on my 2g, they have the perfect ride height imho, but the springs are very soft and you'll get a ton of body roll and maybe rub. If you want to make it better for the road course, I'd say tires and brake pads/fluid would be most important. Don't really need the race seat and harness and cage, just get a CG lock and it should be fine to start with.

Bigger radiator and oil temp/press are probably good to have.

Good luck with the build.

Im pretty sure im already having that problem with the suspension, and updated my mod list to include that as i had left it out. I also live near lake wateree which is basically 98 miles of twisty roads and during some of my tuning sessions couldn't pass up the chance of hitting my favorites while the car was running well, and on hard right turns id hear it rub.
Ive already started watching the two road racing build threads going on dsmtuners.
Hopefully will get some good advice from there results.

This car will never be a full on track car, my brother hits up vir 1-2 times a year and cmp once a year if that, so basically im looking at maybe 3 track days a year based on current history, rest of the time will just be a fun alternative to my bike.

Matter of fact making my first outing to VIR here on Aug 9-10. Will be driving the car but not racing.

[goodhart]

Tim Zimmer makes over 1,000 on a stock 1g nt tb and 2.5" piping.

[A//// Guy]

Pretty sure the upgrades are for bling and a "cool" mod list. We do remember his other 2g. :)

Im with Halon and everyone else that says leave stuff that works alone and get it to run right.

[SlowWhite]

Well finished up the install today, and required more then just "bolt in" like advertised.

For starters the radiator looks awesome. I was very impressed with packaging and looks. And it was a direct bolt in however, it required cutting of the stock fan shroud to clear the coolant hoses, as well as notching the shroud to clear the t-bolt clamp holding on the i/c pipe, as well as slightly rotating the coolant overflow mount so that it would fit with the fan now being moved due to the radiator being 3 rows instead of 2. I also noticed that the fan stand offs pushed the fan farther away from the radiator then the oem radiator, haven't started the car yet so we'll just have to see if maybe I'll need to figure out a way to enclose it better.

I also was a bit disappointed in the radiator cap. It should be an easy fix but when you fully tighten the cap the decal on it is not facing the way I thought it would. It looks to just be glued on so maybe at some point i'll heat it up and rotate it so that the "M" is facing the way I want it to.

Here are the picts - I have still yet to go for a drive as wife had to leave for work and I'm playing with the kids.

[SlowWhite]

While I was looking for something to cut the fan shroud with I found a bunch of spare parts, including a brand new never opened Greddy radiator cap, a few FP couplers, and a few misc sensors, fuel rail, clamps.

Here are also more pictures of the radiator install, and misc pictures of things on the car.

[SlowWhite]

Assuming this solves my Coolant issues, and nothing else pops up that requires immediate attention, my next purchase is going to be:

A-Pillar Pod
AEM Oil Pressure
AEM Oil Temp gauge.

The car does not have a working pressure gauge and quite frankly it scares me, and 2nd its getting really old popping the hood and checking oil levels before and after I leave work or go for a drive.

I will have 1 open spot for another gauge, just not sure yet what it will be so I'll hold off till something arrises

[Halon]

Nice. And man what a perfect example of what I said earlier so I'm just going to quote myself.

But reality is don't change things if you don't need to. OEM stuff fits good, works well, and lasts a long time. Don't change it unless you have to.


So here's a case where yeah you had to change something because your temps were plain old too high. But like you said, this "bolt-in" piece isn't really that simple. So now if you think that was a pain notching your shroud, imagine what it'll be like if you install a SMIM and different TB. Your IC piping will need to change, you're idle control stuff will probably be gone or really tough to fit.

OEM stuff fits awesome, don't change it out unless you really have a legit reason to need to (which in this case I'd say you did).

[SlowWhite]

well just did my first start up and will go for a drive once my wife gets back from work.

Started the car made sure there no bubbles or leaks, and then went inside to grab the laptop. My 2yr old got me distracted wanting dinner so I made her some food, then remembered the car was still running (10min) so went out and plugged in the laptop.

Temps were sitting at 203, I let it capture data for another 3 min, with me in the car and temps never moved.

[Halon]

Did you say you replaced that t-stat? If so, what temp is the new one? By the way I didn't mention it but good job retaining the stock fans.