Which wideband should I use with AEM EMS?

FattyBoomBatty · 10-14-2008

A wideband is one of the things I want to get for my car, and right now, there's an innovative LM-1 up for sale on mnsc for 2 hundro. First, is that a good deal (not so important), and second, does the AEM uego work better with the AEM EMS than other wideband setups?

And If I were to buy one, can I eliminate the narrow band and use its wires going to the ecu for the wideband. I assume there's an option in the software to enable the regular input to read 0-5v instead of 0-1v.

Thanks!

**Tachyon** · 10-15-2008

LM-1 Kits typically start at around $280 new and go up from there. Both Innovate and AEM use the Bosch sensor in their kits so I can imagine there being any differences in the readings. There was a rumor a while back that you had to use the UEGO in order to achieve proper closed loop operation, but that was rubbish - anything from LC-1's to FJO's work in this mode.

I'm not sure of what inputs you can control with AEM so I'll let somebody else answer the last question.

**Kracka** · 10-15-2008

Check out the PLX as well, no calibration needed and it uses the same Bosch sensor as the Innovate LC-1.

I personally have the LC-1 wired into my ECU for logging, but I don't have a gauge or display for it. I was tempted to try the PLX but decided just to go with the LC-1 since it was proven to work with the Evo ECU.

http://www.maperformance.com/plx-devices-sm-afr.html

http://www.maperformance.com/innovat...o2-sensor.html

dsm9sec · 10-15-2008

I like my AEM WB O2. Comes w/ gauge and I only paid $280? A few years ago.

User Name · 10-15-2008

I'm not going to be on an EMS, but I have read plenty of good things about the AEM Uego, and it just so happens there's a 10% rebate on their products this month.

If you search, there is a whole shootout post in the forums on wb02's.

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 10-15-2008

Check out the Zeitronix and NGK AFX also. You can use higher quality wideband sensors with the NGK AFX, if you want, instead of the failure prone/short life span Bosch sensor. Any should work with the AEM with it's calibration table and gains setup right.

FattyBoomBatty · 10-15-2008

Ok, I will check those out. Can I use the existing O2 wires for the wideband as well, or will I have to run new wires to the AEM?

I mean from the wideband output to the ECU.

**Kracka** · 10-15-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty

Ok, I will check those out. Can I use the existing O2 wires for the wideband as well, or will I have to run new wires to the AEM?

I did on my Evo, I'm sure you can on the AEM.

*edit*
See Shane's response below.

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 10-15-2008

You normally run 1 wire from your wideband to the AEM, into the primary front #1 sensors old signal. The AEM EMS doesn't support stock style O2 sensors at all.

FattyBoomBatty · 10-15-2008

Well then, lol. I guess I shouldn't have bought that stock style O2. Thanks for helping out guys.

Shotgun! · 10-18-2008

If you are looking at the PLX unit, there was a rep on starquestclub a few years ago selling stuff cheap. PLXGuy, or PLXMan. I'm sure you can find the GB treads.

**v8klla** · 10-18-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

Check out the PLX as well, no calibration needed and it uses the same Bosch sensor as the Innovate LC-1.

I personally have the LC-1 wired into my ECU for logging, but I don't have a gauge or display for it. I was tempted to try the PLX but decided just to go with the LC-1 since it was proven to work with the Evo ECU.

http://www.maperformance.com/plx-devices-sm-afr.html

http://www.maperformance.com/innovat...o2-sensor.html

Thanks for the plug sir

FattyBoomBatty · 10-18-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shotgun!

If you are looking at the PLX unit, there was a rep on starquestclub a few years ago selling stuff cheap. PLXGuy, or PLXMan. I'm sure you can find the GB treads.

Thanks for the heads up on that, I'll see if I can find anything on him. I'm also looking at the NGK wideband, it looks pretty cool and has a big digital readout.

Shotgun! · 10-21-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by v8klla

Thanks for the plug sir

Oh dang, I didn't see this. Buy from MAP, dude!

**v8klla** · 10-21-2008

Haha thank you sir!

FattyBoomBatty · 10-30-2008

OK, new question. Can I start the car on AEM without an O2 sensor plugged in? I would think it wouldn't be a problem, but I used to be able to start my car just barely, and now it almost catches, but doesn't. Is it totally necessary to have that plugged in? (reason I'm asking is because I'm broke right now and can't afford a wideband, lol).

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 10-30-2008

AEM will work with no wideband at all. Even if you have one, it usually isn't used until the car has warmed up some. A factory car doesn't use it's O2 sensor right away either, they usually run in open loop for a bit after starting.

If it doesn't want to fire during cranking then play with the Crank Injector Time Table, it might need more fuel with the cold weather. If it fires, starts and then dies, then you might have to play with the Warm Up Enrichment, Start Extra Deacy, Start Extra Time, Idle and other tables.

FattyBoomBatty · 10-30-2008

Thanks for the tips. I will try that stuff. It has no idle control other than my right foot, so I might need to mess with the throttle screw. Last night I added fuel for startup enrichment, but maybe not enough. I don't know, I'll try some more today.

FattyBoomBatty · 11-01-2008

Ok, some may laugh, others may cry, I was glad to find out everything was ok afterward. When I originally wired the GM air temp sensor and coolant temp sensors, I was under the impression that you gave them +5v to one side and the input wire to the AEM read the resistance, or a change in voltage and the sensors used the engine as ground. Called AEM, and they told me I was stupid, then I learned the right way to do it, nothing was fried, and instead of +5v signals on both sensors (I had this going on all along, couldn't figure it out), I finally had normal readings from both of them. It was 54 degrees in the garage last night.

So, I took out a LOT of fuel, increased timing (which I finally was able to measure) and got it to run for a couple seconds. But, here's a couple new questions. First, what causes backfires in the intake manifold, generally, and what are normal things done to alleviate that problem. Second, when it was running, it sounds like a harley, really rough and shakey, like it was missing on a couple cylinders, or one. It hasn't had new plugs/wires in like 4 years (two of them the car sat, but before that I had run leaded gas sometimes, they are pretty fouled. Might that be a cause of that? Also the gas is old.

Lastly, does the AEM let you know if certain components are bad, like perhaps one or two of the injectors aren't firing because of a bad connection or the coilpack is malfunctioning? (this is related to the second question).

niterydr · 11-01-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty

Ok, some may laugh, others may cry, I was glad to find out everything was ok afterward. When I originally wired the GM air temp sensor and coolant temp sensors, I was under the impression that you gave them +5v to one side and the input wire to the AEM read the resistance, or a change in voltage and the sensors used the engine as ground. Called AEM, and they told me I was stupid, then I learned the right way to do it, nothing was fried, and instead of +5v signals on both sensors (I had this going on all along, couldn't figure it out), I finally had normal readings from both of them. It was 54 degrees in the garage last night.

So, I took out a LOT of fuel, increased timing (which I finally was able to measure) and got it to run for a couple seconds. But, here's a couple new questions. First, what causes backfires in the intake manifold, generally, and what are normal things done to alleviate that problem. Second, when it was running, it sounds like a harley, really rough and shakey, like it was missing on a couple cylinders, or one. It hasn't had new plugs/wires in like 4 years (two of them the car sat, but before that I had run leaded gas sometimes, they are pretty fouled. Might that be a cause of that? Also the gas is old.

Lastly, does the AEM let you know if certain components are bad, like perhaps one or two of the injectors aren't firing because of a bad connection or the coilpack is malfunctioning? (this is related to the second question).

You can cut signal to individual injectors and see if that changes how the vehicle runs.