Finally got my Evo - Page 5

**scheides** · 12-23-2010

You'll do fine with either, but if I had a choice I'd just go with the Centrics. Call/email MAP for best pricing and def get the coating. I had the rotorpros on my evo8 and they were dandy, but for (what should be) only a few bucks more the centrics are the bomb-diggity.

simulatedwood · 12-23-2010

I shopped around for some rotors a couple months ago, give these guys a try: http://www.frozenrotors.com.

People say the cryo treating does nothing, but so far these rotors have worn outstandingly well. I think they can also get you prices on non-cyro rotors as well, brembo blanks or whatever. I did quiz them a bit about the centrics, they said that they have tried them on some vettes with mixed results, they instead recommended using a premium NAPA rotor or a brembo blank instead if going to go for oem replacements for track duty as they seem to hold up to prolonged heat cycling better without warping.

Give em a call, these guys are local, have a tons of track experience, good prices, and great customer service.

t-revzr · 12-23-2010

Rotorpros sell centrics. You can buy straight from rotorpros and ask for the centrics. I was going to do that but ended up selling me car. They will have the best price.

**goodhart** · 12-23-2010

The Frozen Rotors are $272 for the blanks, I guess I understand the reasoning and all, but meh. It's not like my brakes see a really hard life anyways, so I'm not overly concerned with prolonged heat cycling and all that. I can get those Centric's for $30 less or whatever, then spend that on the blingin coating so they don't rust. I just think the rust looks like poo, I'm not woried about the wheels getting stuck on or anything. From the reveiws I have read, the Centrics do seem to hold up much better than the OEM Brembo blanks.

Trevor, that thread I posted was all about the Rotorpros/Centric discussion. They are no longer the same. For a while they even had the same part #'s and all, but they switched to the C-Tek or whatever, and used the 121 PN#, and then apparently changed it back to #120? IDK, that thread was a mess. lol

**Kracka** · 12-23-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by goodhart

Huh? MAP Doesn't even have Centrics on their site? Though I did see them on tirerack for a great price! hmmm....

Good to hear. I would think the coating would be mainly for keeping rust off of them.

I bought my set through MAP.

The coating is to just keep them looking nice.

**goodhart** · 01-06-2011

So last night I attempted to put in my walbro 255 HP I got last month from MAP. I went to the garage with my tools, got the pump assembly out. (After getting that bitch black ring thing that sits on top)

And brought it upstairs to the apartment for disassembly, popped the old pump out.....just to find out my car already had a Walbro 255Hp

So, put it all back together, test drove it and all is good now. I took some pictures along the way also.

p.s. Anyone need a Walbro 255HP for an Evo/2g?

Seat and cover off:

Ring is bigger than the hole:

Bitch ring:
(found out the trick here is to take out the ring and the pump assembly together)

Assembly out:

Took the pump out......wait a second...does that say wal....its the same one!!

Then when I was done putting it all back it, I made sure to etch a small "B" on the side of the ring that faces the back, since it can only have one orientation. If you get it wrong, it can be kind of time consuming to squirm it back around so it faces the right direction while also dealing with the 3 rubber hoses and electrical connector that all go to the pump assembly.

Should also note, after unplugging the electrical plug on top of the pump assembly, it wouldn't be a bad idea to start the car and ruin it till it dies MORE THAN ONCE, I followed the directions from EvoM and only did it once. This still resulted in a good amount of gas being spilled while unhooking the high pressure line.

turbotalon1g · 01-06-2011

Awesome!!! and I bet you could change the pump next time if needed in about 1/2 the time!

Do u guys need to do a fuel pump rewire or is that a last resort to get everything out of a pretty maxed pump?

**Murlo26** · 01-06-2011

The Evo's all come with the "rewire" that DSM's needed I believe.

DoughtCom · 01-06-2011

Haha I remember when scheides installed my pump in like 10 minutes when I needed my tune, that was so awesome.

**goodhart** · 01-06-2011

Yeah, probably took me right around 45 minutes or so to take it out/put it back in. That stupid ring took probably 20 minutes taking it out. Putting it all back in took maybe 5 minutes.

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 01-06-2011

A rewire can help a little but, they do have some voltage drop to the pump, but it's not as bad as a DSM or Civic. It's a bit more complicated to do on an Evo though because they run a dual voltage system to the pump. The dual voltage system actually works well with a KB boost-a-pump, it all still works correctly and you end up with a triple voltage system.

**goodhart** · 02-22-2011

Got the correct sensor for my boost gauge from AEM last week, so I finally have a working boost gauge. Also got rid of the electronic boost controller for a good old MBC.

I think we found out why my wipers weren't working:
Jungy fixed that for me last night. Thanks again dude!!

**scheides** · 02-22-2011

GAAAAAAHHHHH!!!! This is my sad face

Did you end up cleaning it out or just cutting it out/re-wiring??

**goodhart** · 02-22-2011

Cut out and rewire. At least my shit works again though!!

Jungy · 02-24-2011

No problem man. That shit was so badly corroded. The connector was a PITA to get apart because of the short the connectors were melted together. Cut the connectors out and soldered all the wires back together.

**goodhart** · 03-16-2011

Time for a little update. Since my no season tires that came on the car were worn down so badly, I decided to put the summer wheels on a little earlier than I had expected/wanted. Oh well, some tread on summer tires has got to be better than bald ass all seasons right? I also have to get some of my parts installed that I have been waiting to put on, this senior thesis has just been kicking my ass though.

Here are the pics, I hadn't had a chance to wash her up yet so the white residue is still on the tires from mounting.

17x8 RPF1's with Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110 tires, I think they will do dandy for daily driving this summer with maybe a couple track days somewhere if time/money permits

New lugs and faded/flaking brembos (Gorilla neo-chrome/Prizm):

turbotalon1g · 03-16-2011

**goodhart** · 03-18-2011

Getting an alignment with Jeff the Alignment Guy next Tuesday. Also scheduled a tune with Shane just now for April 22nd. That will give me time to install a few of the parts I have waiting:

• Coated Megan O2 housing
• Nisei lower intercooler pipe
• Jack_Of_Trades alternate map switch for ECU map switching (So I can run 92 and E85 by the flip of a switch)
• Buschur TB Shaft seals (I think he just goes through MIL.SPEC???)
• Torque Solutions driveshaft bushings
• Synapse Synchronic recirculating BOV
• BLOX front motor mount

I'd still like some rear diff bushings and a new shift knob, and replace all the drivetrain fluids soon too, other than that I plan on leaving the car alone for the summer.

**goodhart** · 03-23-2011

Got my alignment yesterday, all went well.

Final specs are:
Front: -1.5, 0 Toe
Rear: -1.0, 0 Toe
Brought Jeff a Mt. Dew and a bearclaw and he talked my ear off all morning.

Nice guy.

Then also yesterday, my Tactrix 2.0 cable showed up. Came with all the connectors and even the Subaru plugs for $130 shipped. $200 worth of shit and it's been used twice

Standalone logging? yus plz.

**scheides** · 03-23-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by goodhart

Standalone logging? yus plz.

Pretty sure that only works on CAN-BUS cars, sorry dude

I'd love to give it a try though!