Evo X upgrades - Page 40

FattyBoomBatty · 05-25-2010

ID's aren't magically different than different brands when it comes to flowing more at high pressure. Your DW's will do the same. Also, I'm under the impression that there are different types of walbro pumps, specifically a low and high pressure version. Or go with a fancy anodized pump from another manufacturer that can actually work at higher pressures.

VW guys have been putting 4 and 5 bar fpr's on their stock injectors for a long time. Maybe floppyhead could expand on his trite statement by showing a chart or something of fuel flow over psi for a regular walbro? Maybe?

Also, with all you've done, I am actually surprised you don't have a bcfpr. 20 pages and no aftermarket fpr? For shame! It's one of the first things I bought.

**mlomker** · 05-26-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty

a fancy anodized pump from another manufacturer that can actually work at higher pressures.

I must admit, the racing fuel setups are pretty bling. Gates' surge tank looks like an octopus in his trunk...pretty cool.

Quote:

20 pages and no aftermarket fpr? For shame! It's one of the first things I bought.

I actually do own one but I haven't bought all the hoses and fittings to install it. It shouldn't be necessary with this turbo from a flow perspective.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Bleeder!!

Cranking the fuel pressure lowers the output of the fuel pump.

This isn't a regular Walbro but the principle should be the same. You'd want a beefy pump setup if you were doing something extreme like doubling the base.

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 05-26-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty

ID's aren't magically different than different brands when it comes to flowing more at high pressure.

They are different! Some injector will actually start flowing less at higher base pressure.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty

Why insist on larger injectors when you can just turn up the fuel pressure? Injector Dynamics themselves say it's fine to run 100psi. So set your base pressure at 60psi if you are running out of fuel with the 1000s.

You need some crazy fuel pump setup to run a high base pressure with high boost on top of it. You would only be able to run super high base's with an all-motor car or with mechanical fuel pumps. Walbros also don't like much over 75-80psi, so 60psi + 30psi of boost = past the crack pressure.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty

Also, with all you've done, I am actually surprised you don't have a bcfpr. 20 pages and no aftermarket fpr? For shame! It's one of the first things I bought.

Most people don't need an AFPR, it's one of the most over hyped and often un-needed parts that people waste their money on instead of actual parts they need.

**Kracka** · 05-26-2010

...and owned. Nice info Shane, thanks for clarifying those points.

311evo · 05-26-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

...and owned. Nice info Shane, thanks for clarifying those points.

+1, lol. I enjoyed that.

**mlomker** · 05-26-2010

meh, I like FattyBoomBatty. I love his car and he's a decent conversationalist. Some people on here don't discuss things because they 'know' they are right and don't feel a need to explain their answers.

turbotalon1g · 05-26-2010

^Good point and very good info on this page.

FattyBoomBatty · 05-27-2010

I guess I will read more next time before posting. But if all things were equal, which I assumed they were (at least pretty close to it), what I said might have more validity. I'm basically trying to help, in a round about way.

Also, saying "owned" is SO played out. Pretty sure I invented that in high school.

**mlomker** · 05-28-2010

Shane said he'd take a look at my tune over the weekend. He mentioned trying a different ROM on it. I'm going to drop off the DW1000's in case we need to go with plan-B.

**Murlo26** · 05-28-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlomker

Shane said he'd take a look at my tune over the weekend. He mentioned trying a different ROM on it. I'm going to drop off the DW1000's in case we need to go with plan-B.

Good choice

I like that you switched your ride to the plymouth, lol, nice

**mlomker** · 05-28-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Murlo26

I like that you switched your ride to the plymouth, lol, nice

I already ordered a mod of sorts...I'll have a $500 stereo in the $1200 car. The doors are rusted through at the bottom so I'm not exactly expecting good sound...just need to have my Sirius.

**Murlo26** · 05-28-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlomker

I already ordered a mod of sorts...I'll have a $500 stereo in the $1200 car. The doors are rusted through at the bottom so I'm not exactly expecting good sound...just need to have my Sirius.

Ive started modding my beater too, lol. Spent about 600 so far.

Maintenance and sound!

**mlomker** · 05-28-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Murlo26

sound!

I went with a Kenwood head and CDT Audio coaxials. I've had good luck with both in the past and the prices weren't bad.

simulatedwood · 05-28-2010

NOOOO - Dont modify the beaters... Dont give yourself a reason to care about locking the doors! LOL .. Once the mods start.. I can see it now.. both of you are posting on homemade turbo looking for the best bang for your buck fuel setup using a old Stock evo x turbo on a honda accord\ plymouth acclaim. LOL

**Murlo26** · 05-28-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by simulatedwood

NOOOO - Dont modify the beaters... Dont give yourself a reason to care about locking the doors! LOL .. Once the mods start.. I can see it now.. both of you are posting on homemade turbo looking for the best bang for your buck fuel setup using a old Stock evo x turbo on a honda accord\ plymouth acclaim. LOL

I have been debating on a 2.2L VTEC head swap from the H22A motor, lol. Would be so sweet!

**mlomker** · 05-28-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by simulatedwood

Dont give yourself a reason to care about locking the doors!

It's all relative. A $200 head unit isn't enough for me to care about it (nobody steals door speakers and the Sirius would take too long to remove). It has 150k miles so I wonder if it's even worth changing the oil on it.

311evo · 05-28-2010

Eclipse was awesome before they sold out to JVC and got marketed to Best Buy/Walmart.

They still have a premier line, but for the bottom end model of that I think it's still >$500.

Alpine makes the best band for the buck on head units, as far as their inboard amps go. And functionality/reliability is great. (at least when you get into the $300 range). Only other kind of deck I would buy would be a pioneer Premier (>$300). They have the most powerfull inboard amps, and look great even though they are not very user friendly.

Kenwood decks are.. different. Some models they have are great, and other models lack functionality/quality.

Speakers, My favorites are Eclipse and Crossfire. Both of those are great. Same pics for amps/subs as well. Can't go wrong with these, but you're going to be spending a LOT more then you would at a shitty best buy.

**mlomker** · 05-28-2010

I know you're in the biz so a lot less biased than I am. I tend to find a brand and stick with it. I'm super picky about speakers but not so much on other things. I use to buy Boston Acoustics but I gave up on that once I heard CDT.

My car was on the rollers at DB...dropped off the DW injectors, just in case.

**Murlo26** · 05-29-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlomker

I know you're in the biz so a lot less biased than I am. I tend to find a brand and stick with it. I'm super picky about speakers but not so much on other things. I use to buy Boston Acoustics but I gave up on that once I heard CDT.

My car was on the rollers at DB...dropped off the DW injectors, just in case.

Rollers huh? So what happened?

**mlomker** · 05-29-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Murlo26

Rollers huh? So what happened?

I hope he went home and had a beer. I had to split for grad school so I didn't stick around.

I just want to have it for next weekend...MAP's dyno on the 5th and auto-x novice school. I've got some cones to ruin.