My New 98 gsx build

[Yiddie]

Well obviously they'll be some lag.. but not terrible..

[turbotalon1g]

Originally Posted by goodhart

Not much lag with a 62mm turbo on a 2.0? roflcopters.

I lol'ed

[turbotalon1g]

No 62mm+ = we no care.

5858 will do what you want it too. or FP HTA76 has trapped 138.

I vote 16g/50 trim and spray 100 shot.

[C3L1CA]

I think you really need to decide what your goals are Greg before anybody can really help that much. No point to get some huge turbo and a bunch of other baller stuff if your goal is only 500 on a dyno jet.

You have to really pick out a goal for either power or times then go do your research. Then based on your goals go look at dsmtuners, here, other dsm forums and search for threads around your goal level and see what other people have done to reach your goal level.

I understand wanting the best and wanting to do an awesome build but if you only want 500 dyno jet you're wasting a lot of money with some of the stuff you've said so far. Remember if you go for some crazy build to get a crazy built transmission to go along with the power.



For what its worth I loved my bolt on mitsu housing turbo on my fp manifold. No worries about cracking and could've passed it off for stock to a car newb

[Shane@DBPerformance]

My wife's old 2.0l 1G with an SC61 on it was laggy. It had a tubular manifold, which didn't help at all with spool, but it was only a .63 A/R and it had a small exhaust wheel compared to a 6262 or 6266. With medium cams and and a typical SMIM it was a pain to get it to spool in 2nd gear. The gearing is so long on DSMs versus an Evo, STI, Supra, Civic, etc that you really drop a lot of RPMs on each shift. I could never quite get the revlimiter high enough to not have it fall on it's face going into 2nd, even with NLTS, but it was a stock motor without a good valvetrain so 8500 was pushing my luck already.

Usually most turbos above the 16G/20G or other smaller bolt-on setups are a big jump in lag. Going from an Evo 3 16G to a typical T3/T4 is big lag increase and then from a typical T3/T4 to a 61mm-67mm is a big lag increase.

[Super Bleeder!!]

This thread reads exactly like a lot of threads on here from 2004.

[C3L1CA]

From memory strictly modified was running a beefy t3 turbo with a t3 to mitsu adaptor flange on their red 2g.

That car went 9s and pretty sure it made a little over 500 Think its a pretty good flowing manifold for the money

[Halon]

600hp on what dyno? Kerry made over 600hp dyno-jet on an FP manifold and a regular old SCM61, think it was internally gated too.

Something else about tubulars. They look cool and all, but it also comes with some unwanted complexity. Rather than 4 bolts on top of the manifold, easy to get to, to attach/remove the turbo, you now get to deal with 4 bolts underneath, that are a pain to get to. They might come loose so you have to go under there with an allen or whatever to tighten. installing the nuts to attach the mani to the head, depending on the manifold that can be a PITA. You will likely have no heat shield.

At least in my experience, the more I mod and put in aftermarket stuff, the more I appreciate OEM quality and designs. And the more I appreciate keeping things simple. Not always the case obviously, but often the case in my experience so far.

Just my point of view I guess, everyone will have their own. Good luck to you whatever path you choose.

[Yiddie]

Originally Posted by Halon

600hp on what dyno? Kerry made over 600hp dyno-jet on an FP manifold and a regular old SCM61, think it was internally gated too.

Something else about tubulars. They look cool and all, but it also comes with some unwanted complexity. Rather than 4 bolts on top of the manifold, easy to get to, to attach/remove the turbo, you now get to deal with 4 bolts underneath, that are a pain to get to. They might come loose so you have to go under there with an allen or whatever to tighten. installing the nuts to attach the mani to the head, depending on the manifold that can be a PITA. You will likely have no heat shield.

At least in my experience, the more I mod and put in aftermarket stuff, the more I appreciate OEM quality and designs. And the more I appreciate keeping things simple. Not always the case obviously, but often the case in my experience so far.

Just my point of view I guess, everyone will have their own. Good luck to you whatever path you choose.

It's getting tuned at DB.

I guess I'm just trying to get the most out of what I got, If you all say that manifold is the best way to go I'll take your word for it, But what's the best setup for that then? 5858BB? Do I get an external wastegate?

My shortblock is rated 700+

[Halon]

600awhp at DB is serious power, close to 700hp at MAP (dynojet).

I don't know a ton about the PTE billet stuff. But if they make a bolt-on housing for the billet 58mm, I personally think that would be a killer street setup. Alternative options might be the BW S200 series. I believe they make an S256 and an S258/59 that are available in bolt on housings as well.

[Yiddie]

Originally Posted by Halon

600awhp at DB is serious power, close to 700hp at MAP (dynojet).

I don't know a ton about the PTE billet stuff. But if they make a bolt-on housing for the billet 58mm, I personally think that would be a killer street setup. Alternative options might be the BW S200 series. I believe they make an S256 and an S258/59 that are available in bolt on housings as well.

I'll take a look at those ones too, But this is the options it gives me for the 5858 which only has a hp rating of 620 at the engine

Mitsubishi:
.48 ar external (manifold mounted)
.63 ar external (manifold mounted)
.48 ar external (o2 mounted)
.63 ar external (o2 mounted)
.48 ar Divided with standard wastegate
.63 ar Divided with standard wastegate
.48 ar Undivided with standard wastegate
.63 ar Undivided with standard wastegate

[Yiddie]

fp mani, maybe a 5858dbb turbo with a wet kit? direct port nitrous? lol

[turbotalon1g]

Originally Posted by Yiddie

fp mani, maybe a 5858dbb turbo with a wet kit? direct port nitrous? lol

This.

You will be fast enough to beat most off the bottle and if you run into something that somehow goes around you, then flip the switches.

I know a guy selling a kit for cheap too....

[turbotalon1g]

I have a T3 manifold for sale for $150 if you are interested.

[Halon]

I don't know your background, but 58mm at 30psi, no nitrous, will probably have you gitty as a school girl.

[Yiddie]

Oh what a dick lol

[turbotalon1g]

Originally Posted by Yiddie

Oh what a dick lol

You saw the pics?

Dead serious though, it would be. I was going to do the same thing with a 16G setup a few years ago, but well times have changed.

[Yiddie]

I wanna shoot for around 500-550 on DB's dyno without nitrous.. Think a FP manifold could do that? If so, what would it consist of?

[b00sted_spyder]

Originally Posted by Yiddie

I wanna shoot for around 500-550 on DB's dyno without nitrous.. Think a FP manifold could do that? If so, what would it consist of?

Brad did that with no problems. Even with a stock bottom end.

[Halon]

Originally Posted by Yiddie

I wanna shoot for around 500-550 on DB's dyno without nitrous.. Think a FP manifold could do that? If so, what would it consist of?

For the 100th time, yes.