Potential Buy 1997 GSX

[SlowWhite]

So far im not worried about what im seeing with what's going on with the car or with what im reading in the wiki and helps on ecmlink.

Im not doing any wot pulls nor have I done any. Ill post logs of my trip in to work when I get home.

Im pretty sure I have the injectors and idle dialed in. I am also now pretty sure I have the "cruise" logs I needed to set up the combft sd 've table. I reviewed all 6 logs I did comparing all of them and choose the one I believe to best suited to use for the adjustment.

I am going to load those adjustment points before leaving work.

And then go log some more and then do comparisons when I get home.

According to the wiki after I have the"cruise" part set up. The only way to get into the higher hz is to do some

[SlowWhite]

......do some wot pulls. However im going to take this in baby steps and only increase airflow little at a time.

I read I can do some more adjustments to help fix the now very slight hesitation in the injectors when bopping the throttle. I am going to work on throttle response more before I get into wot pulls.

[SlowWhite]

Originally Posted by asshanson

This. 15-17IAFR while in boost is not good.
At least find someone who knows what they are doing with link and speed density tuning, and who is willing to physically be there with you helping. Otherwise there is a good chance this won't end well, it sounds like you are in way over your head after being out of DSMs for 10 years.

And its not the ten years. Its the fact that I never tuned my car (ever)
I always paid someone to do it.

And that's why I am where im at today with this because I never learned any of it for myself.

And since you all really have no idea how far into bfe I live. There isnt an option to get someone who knows what they are doing so far after asking on tuners in all the regional dsm sections close to me I only had 1 guy say hes from Columbia. (40min from me) next guy was 3hrs away.

Anyrate I probably can find a awd dyno in charlotte at underground racing. (2hrs away)

But finding a tuner with link experience is going to be tough. (If I decide this is beyond me whos willing to fly in and help me?) Im 2hrs from mytle beach too of that's an insensitive


Anyrate still feeling confident ill get it done, and still 100% sure ill be asking some stupid questions in the process.

But id rather ask and look stupid then try something with out asking and wrecking something and feeling even worse then I would feel stupid lol


Again thanks for the patience.

[SlowWhite]

Originally Posted by dsmghost

Yeah stop driving it like that it needs to be dialed in. It may not just be the tune either.

And use linearwb if the logged value is different from what the gauge displays. You enter user defined voltages to get them to match. But you need to have that tune dialed in better before you can setup linearwb correctly since you have to force a rich and lean condition to get the voltage values your going to need.

http://youtu.be/k3BIR6OOphg

^but before worrying about this fix your car

The wideband thing does have me worried though. How accurate is what im seeing in the logs if the wideband is off?

Also I apologize for not searching this but I want to ask while im thinking about it here at work. What would cause the difference in the gauge vs link?

Is there something I should be looking for, setup wise? Physical install wise? Etc

[SlowWhite]

Also want to add the previous owner had it setup as linear on his e85 tune.

I can't pull it up here at work to check. But would those linear wide band settings be in those logs? So I can just copy them?

The e85 log is posted on ecmlink in my thread if need be

[SlowWhite]

my cruise logs are now loaded on my ecmlink thread.

[Halon]

UGR only had a 2wd dyno last i knew. And I doubt they want a dsm on their rollers. If your WB gauge and link shiw different values, id tend to believe the gauge. Like was already mentined, youll need to setuo the linear WB in link to get them to match.

[Goat Blower]

Flatbed the car to Shane.

[SlowWhite]

Originally Posted by Halon

UGR only had a 2wd dyno last i knew. And I doubt they want a dsm on their rollers. If your WB gauge and link shiw different values, id tend to believe the gauge. Like was already mentined, youll need to setuo the linear WB in link to get them to match.

ya i will definetely be doing that. But someone mentioned earlier i have to get the rest of the set up dialed in first...correct?

anyone get a chance to look at my idle log on ecmlink forums and then the cruise log?

I was going to use the "cruise" logs, but will probably go out and redo them using the "advance usage" settings.

[dsmghost]

Originally Posted by SlowWhite

Also I apologize for not searching this but I want to ask while im thinking about it here at work. What would cause the difference in the gauge vs link?

Voltage offset of the two outputs

[JET]

How are you going to successfully tune a car that is logging incorrect AFRs?? Get the basics done before you blow the thing up.

[SlowWhite]

Originally Posted by JET

How are you going to successfully tune a car that is logging incorrect AFRs?? Get the basics done before you blow the thing up.

that was my exact question up above. how accurate is what im seeing on link? if the a/f is different then what the gauge is reading?

seems it would be impossible to do anything correctly unless the two matched?

because I cant set the linear WB until i have the idle/cruise dialed in, but i cant dial those in correctly if the wb is wrong lol... (hense a loosing battle, correct?)

[SlowWhite]

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/linearitems

"The LinWideband item works exactly the same except, of course, units are displayed as A/F ratio instead of pressure. However, some wideband units don't faithfully follow the characteristics shown in their documentation. If this is the case, you'll probably need to empirically determine the settings necessary to obtain agreement between the values displayed directly by the wideband unit and those displayed by ECMLink. Probably the simplest way do this is to add RawLinWideband to your displayed values (click the Raw value button on the Display Values dialog). Then lock the ECU in open-loop mode and force a stoichiometric measured (displayed by the wideband unit) A/F ratio (Lambda = 1.0, gasoline A/F ratio = 14.7:1). Observe the logged RawLinWideband voltage. Set Max volts to the observed value and set Max lambda to 1.0. (If you are using ECMLink's narrowband simulation, this observed voltage will also be NBO2 sim's WB switch point.)

Next, determine a Min volts and min lambda point. Force a measured gasoline A/F ratio of 11.0:1 (lambda = 0.75). Observe the logged RawLinWideband voltage. Set Min volts to the observed value and set Min lambda to 0.75. Finish by restoring your normal closed-loop configuration and verify that the ECMLink displayed A/F ratio values match those displayed by the wideband unit."


How do you do this (see above), i've set it up in the laptop and have the raw data set to log. But what i dont understand is how do you force the a/f ratio's?

I've also emailed and texted the previous owner for his settings on the wideband. Since he was running it as Linear he must have had it set up already. However with the discussions about his injector globals and dead times being wrong. Will his setpoints for the wideband be incorrect?

[turbotalon1g]

You need to slow down and read the instructions, I agree with everyone else on here tow the shit to a professional tuner, watch what he does and try to learn from what he has done.

Setting up the wideband is basically adjusting the 0-5V output so that DSMLink interprets it correctly, I'm at work and I can't find all the info for you but the wiki has all the basics and if you search for your specific gauge on the DSMLink forums I guarantee you will find your answer.

[SlowWhite]

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

You need to slow down and read the instructions, I agree with everyone else on here tow the shit to a professional tuner, watch what he does and try to learn from what he has done.

Setting up the wideband is basically adjusting the 0-5V output so that DSMLink interprets it correctly, I'm at work and I can't find all the info for you but the wiki has all the basics and if you search for your specific gauge on the DSMLink forums I guarantee you will find your answer.

I understand the voltage. The guage i have is an aem uego wideband.

And i agree if they're was a ecmlink capable tuner in the state sure I'd take it there, but there isnt, heck i'd even be willing to drive anywhere with in a 4hr drive. (i'd just use the old setting as they got me from florida to here with out issue)

I can clearly see i'm asking way to many questions prior to exhausting the search features. And I appoligize.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3BI...lz&app=desktop

[Kracka]

Ask away, that's what internet forums are for. Disregard Aaron being a dickhead, he shits in peoples' Wheaties for as a hobby

[SlowWhite]

Well wideband is all set up, per the video link above. And its right on as far as I can tell.

So at least thats done. However its started thunder storming again. so looks like the rest of the day is shot.

[SlowWhite]

rain finally stopped so I went out and warmed the car up and then took a quick log of the idle.

gauge and ecmlink say the exact same thing.

However I noticed the 02 doesnt seem to be cycling as much as it used to or as consistent? (this comment wasnt researched just an FYI, just stating what I noticed)

[SlowWhite]

Need advice on cooling the car. So today I went out to do some cruise logs.

And got stuck behind a funeral procession less then 1/2mile from my house so I had to sit and wait while the cars all left the parking lot. And my check engine light came on (I have it set when coolant his 225)

Well it was sitting at 226. (Also it was 102 outside today)

We also know my car based on previous logs sits around 206-216 normally while driving.

And I'd really like to get those temps down. I want use map. Stuff just to support them.

And they carey the mishimoto radiators and fans, thermostats. But which one would you recommend the standard or the xline?

I still have a/c and punishment o2 housing with the tial 38.

[Halon]

Welcome to modded DSM's. Cooling is always fun with these cars when you have a big ol FMIC sitting in front of your radiator. Things to try:

1) Run an FMIC that has some decent flow through properties. An extremely dense external fin setup doesn't help air get to the radiator. When I changed from a dense Garrett core to a higher flowing ETS core, that made a large difference in my specific situation.

2) Stock fans are the best fans. If you can fit stock fans then run them. If you go aftermarket, make sure you get ones that have a shroud. Ziptied 12" fans on the radiator aren't ideal at all.

3) Make sure your cooling system is in tip top shape. New coolant, radiator is in good condition, no leaks, good thermostat (there are lower temp thermostats available), good rad cap (there are higher pressure caps available).

4) If possible, run a more ideal coolant mixture for cooling. 50/50 provides a nice balance of cooling, lubricating, and boil/freeze protection. If you up the water content to run say a 70/30 mix, popular belief is it will cool better. Consider adding something like Water Wetter to help break up some of the friction (some people have ran a couple drops of Dawn as a cheap alternative to WW).

5) Create some air ducting to try and route more air to the radiator since you're big old FMIC is blocking a lot of it now.

6) Consider an aftermarket radiator. They are often larger than the stock one so you've effectively increased your coolant capacity. Maybe just be a few ounces more capacity over stock, but every little bit helps.

7) Try different water pumps. There are a few different blade designs out there. Last I researched the topic, the two designs were "exposed blades" or "covered blades". The covered blades supposidely was a better design, less cavitation. This isn't a DSM pump, but just an example of what I mean when I say exposed or covered blades.