04-01-2004
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#1
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Mazda Bitch
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 3,208
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I am going to be needing new brakes and possibly calipers. How do I know what is needed (what do I check/look for)?
Also, for the 2G's, what is recommend for a decent set? I don't have a shitload of money to spend, so something in a reasonable range.
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04-01-2004
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#2
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Shit Rocket Pilot
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Shoreview, MN
Drives: 2003 Evolution VIII
Posts: 7,752
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Just curious but why do you think you need calipers? If anything you'll just want to rebuild them which won't cost much.
Since you aren't going to be doing any track action I'd stick with something close to OEM like what you'd find at any auto parts store. If you want a little more stopping power you could upgrade to something like Powerslot rotors and Axxis Metal Master pads.
If you want a complete set of rotors, pads and SS brake lines check this out: http://www.turboimport.com/catalog/promo.htm
These are what I picked up.
__________________
"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." -Mario Andretti
03 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tachyon
Every minute you spend in your Evo, not in boost, is a minute of your life you'll never get back.
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04-01-2004
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#3
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Mazda Bitch
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 3,208
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See, I don't know if I need calipers or not...they look kinda rusty....but I am completely dumb when it comes to the brakes, etc.
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04-01-2004
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#4
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hopkins
Posts: 564
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Quote:
Originally posted by DSMChick@Apr 1 2004, 09:27 PM
See, I don't know if I need calipers or not...they look kinda rusty....but I am completely dumb when it comes to the brakes, etc.
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I really dout you need new calipers. Just get some brake pads and call it a day.
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04-01-2004
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#5
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Shit Rocket Pilot
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Shoreview, MN
Drives: 2003 Evolution VIII
Posts: 7,752
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They're rusty because they're cast iron and unpainted. If you want you can get them sandblasted and painted which will help prevent them from rusting, and make your car look better. If they aren't leaking or sticking they're fine.
Just get pads and rotors that will suit your needs.
__________________
"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." -Mario Andretti
03 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tachyon
Every minute you spend in your Evo, not in boost, is a minute of your life you'll never get back.
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04-01-2004
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#7
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aka Goodbye
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We're all forgetting that you need to either resurface the rotors or buy new ones when putting on new pads. If you just slap a set of pads on, they will wear out in half the time since they weren't allowed to "bed in" with the rotors. Resurfacing or "turning" the rotors should be $15-$20 each at auto parts stores that do that, or new rotors are probably about $30 each if you shop around.
I'm sure your calipers are just fine, severely abnormal wear on the pads would tell you if there's a problem with them.
__________________
2009 Corvette Z51-SOLD
1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX-SOLD
2013 BMW Z4-Current summer hooptie
2017 GMC Yukon-Current winter hooptie
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04-02-2004
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#8
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R U DTF bro?
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oak Point, TX
Drives: C8 Stingray Z51
Posts: 20,620
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I would just get new rotors instead of turning them (turning the rotor takes material away therefore they will warp quicker and won't be able to dissapate heat as well). Autozone seems to have the cheapest prices on brake rotors as far as I can tell...but if you are going to get some decent pads you might as well get some decent rotors to go along with that. Summit sells Qualitee rotors which are actually made by Brembo and they are a good quality solid rotor. You could also just go with the ones from Mitsu. The OEM auto part store rotors will warp a lot quicker than the higher quality ones will.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlo26
I agree with Kracka.
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04-02-2004
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#10
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 291
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Quote:
Originally posted by Goat Blower@Apr 1 2004, 10:26 PM
We're all forgetting that you need to either resurface the rotors or buy new ones when putting on new pads. If you just slap a set of pads on, they will wear out in half the time since they weren't allowed to "bed in" with the rotors. Resurfacing or "turning" the rotors should be $15-$20 each at auto parts stores that do that, or new rotors are probably about $30 each if you shop around.
I'm sure your calipers are just fine, severely abnormal wear on the pads would tell you if there's a problem with them.
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eh, what's your logic behind this one? no magic happens that mates the pad and rotor. if the rotor is still flat, unwarped, and the pads are the same size as what was on, you bed in the pads and are fine. hell, even that isn't terribly necessary, but to do it you just bring them up to high temp a few times -- 8-10 60mph to 5mph back-to-back-to-back-to-back stops (never stop completely just get right back up to speed) then drive around and let them cool, repeat with another series of 8-10, done. if you're using a high-temp race pad like a porterfield R4-E , do the same, but make them 100mph to 5mph stops
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DSM + FWD = Carl Lewis in high heels
DSM + FWD + slicks = Michael Johnson in birkenstocks
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04-02-2004
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#11
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Hellbound
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: St Paul
Posts: 1,390
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Quote:
Originally posted by illz@Apr 2 2004, 11:45 AM
eh, what's your logic behind this one? no magic happens that mates the pad and rotor. if the rotor is still flat, unwarped, and the pads are the same size as what was on, you bed in the pads and are fine. hell, even that isn't terribly necessary, but to do it you just bring them up to high temp a few times -- 8-10 60mph to 5mph back-to-back-to-back-to-back stops (never stop completely just get right back up to speed) then drive around and let them cool, repeat with another series of 8-10, done. if you're using a high-temp race pad like a porterfield R4-E , do the same, but make them 100mph to 5mph stops
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Re-surface and Break-in,"Bedding" ,them in is absolutely neccessary, even if the rotors are flat and non-warped.At least rough up the surface of the rotor, and take it easy during break-in(do NOT do 60-5mph stops).If you just throw them on and do some 60-5 mph stops, you'll glaze the pads 95% of the time, which will lead to increased heat, reduced braking and reduced life of the pads.
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-Nulli Secundus-
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04-02-2004
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#12
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Hellbound
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: St Paul
Posts: 1,390
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As far as rotors, spend the extra money and get them from the dealer.I've had warping issues with Autozone/Checker rotors everytime, since I have put OEM ones on, no problems
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-Nulli Secundus-
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04-02-2004
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#13
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Guest
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If you do decide to get new roters I would have them turned also. When I worked in a shop we would turn all new ones and about 85 % of them were slightly worped.
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04-02-2004
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#14
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Is funding Exxon.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Ham Lake
Drives: like a bat outta hell!
Posts: 7,983
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Yeah, definately get them turned. Also, I highly recommend the Axxis Ultimate pads. They are way better than the metal masters and only a few bucks more.
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Is burning corn and stayin' warm!
My motorcycle is stock and reliable, my Talon is neither!
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04-04-2004
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#15
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Mazda Bitch
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 3,208
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Thanks for the help everyone! Maybe I was thinking rotors, and not calipers..lol...my bad :uh:
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