Make slowboy not so slow - Page 6

**v8klla** · 12-22-2007

Glad to hear its running better for you boss!

**asshanson** · 12-26-2007

Confirmed, I got 28 mpg on the way to Iowa. Since the roads were bad my average speed was probably 60, on the way back the average was probably low 70s, I think it'll be about 25 mpg, which is still a few better than before.

Anyway, I was wondering about the MDP (or MAP) sensor. A few people have told me to keep it until I get dsmlink, but a few have said it's not necessary. I did some looking around and RRE and a few other places say it's just for EGR monitoring, which I don't have any more. A few other places say it's for idle control.

What I'm thinking is I didn't seal the vacuum line to the tiny MDP sensor nipple and it caused a huge boost leak (P port of TB), which may explain why my car doesn't want to idle below 1300rpm. Any thoughts?

**scheides** · 12-26-2007

I never fixed the stuttering problem with my 2G; I never had DSMlink to play with, I ended up selling the car before that was fixed

Boost leak test is a BIG thing, not a small thing. Do this sooner than later--you're welcome to come use my air compressor and tester if you want!

**asshanson** · 12-26-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by scheides

I never fixed the stuttering problem with my 2G; I never had DSMlink to play with, I ended up selling the car before that was fixed

Boost leak test is a BIG thing, not a small thing. Do this sooner than later--you're welcome to come use my air compressor and tester if you want!

I hope a new ECU and dsmlink fix it I guess. However, I think I will take you up on that boost test offer after I get back from vacation.

Maybe tomorrow I will cap the TB ports and see if that fixes the idle (or see if the car works fine without the MDP sensor attached).

**asshanson** · 01-08-2008

Ok, so the guy who sold me the motor is trying to get out of cars completely, so he wants to sell me his mildly modded 95 gsx (exhaust, fmic, few gauges, etc). The car comes with all of his Mitsu parts, including a shep tranny, a big holset turbo, and a bunch of random parts that I don't know what to do with but could sell eventually.

He's letting it go for dirt cheap, but I don't have the space for an extra car for a couple months while I steal parts off the car and return it to almost 100% stock and sell it.

Anyone willing to rent a garage spot to me for a few months while I work on this thing? The closer to downtown the better, but that's not a huge deal since it would be mostly weekends I'd work on it. I'd probably pick up the car mid January.

**JET** · 12-26-2007

Put a screw in the hose to block it off.

FattyBoomBatty · 01-08-2008

check warehouses around you. I'm storing my car in an old warehouse here in moorhead for like 35 bucks a month, plus they let me work on it. If there was something like that near downtown (there must be something) then I'd do that.

crazy_skier · 01-08-2008

if you dont pick it up let me know the price... i'm looking for another one

polishmafia · 01-09-2008

andrew, i might have a spot for the car. i dont know if peter told you about it. im waiting to hear back from one person about it. give me a call when you can.

**asshanson** · 01-09-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by polishmafia

andrew, i might have a spot for the car. i dont know if peter told you about it. im waiting to hear back from one person about it. give me a call when you can.

Yea I was there when you called him last night. When I get my phone charged later I'll give you a call.

**JET** · 01-09-2008

I may have a spot available too.

**asshanson** · 01-11-2008

Thanks Pete for renting me the garage spot for a few months. It will be great to have a real spot to work on the car(s).

So I'm ditching my s20g for something bigger now that I have the 2.3 motor. I've heard a lot of people talk about the 60-1, 61, and GT35R. How quickly will these spool on my motor (9.0 compression)?

Thanks,
Andrew

Matt D. · 01-11-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by slowboy

So I'm ditching my s20g for something bigger now that I have the 2.3 motor. I've heard a lot of people talk about the 60-1, 61, and GT35R. How quickly will these spool on my motor (9.0 compression)?

I have a brand new GT3561 for sale.

**JET** · 01-11-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt D.

I have a brand new GT3561 for sale.

Which one? I hate the numbering places some places use. It should be like SCM6176RHPS, SC6169RE or something like that.

**asshanson** · 01-11-2008

How does a GT35RLSP compare to those two?

Is the 2nd number the exhaust wheel size, like 76mm or 69mm, etc?

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 01-12-2008

PTE used to make a GT3561 turbo and it used that numbering scheme. It wasn't one really sold much or usually listed for sale. It was pretty much a real non-ball bearing GT35R, not part of the normal SC61 family. GT35R exhaust wheel, GT35R/61mm compressor wheel, GT journal bearing center section. Momin has one on his 1G.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JET

Which one? I hate the numbering places some places use. It should be like SCM6176RHPS, SC6169RE or something like that.

**JET** · 01-11-2008

Those are just 2 examples, there are a ton of different numbers. SC means garrett style housing, SCM is Mitsu housing. 61 is the compressor wheel size, 76 is the exhaust wheel size. The end numbers describe the housings, ported, size of housing, etc.

**scheides** · 01-12-2008

buy mattd's setup!

I would stay away from an internally gated setup, they tend to suck on pump gas. Plan on dsmlink at the same time. I had an internally gated gt35r on my 2g and it sucked, especially with an afc. On boost onset, it would spike an extra 3 or 4 psi and then settle down to where I had wanted it. This spike would cause knock if set too high, greatly limiting the amount of power the car would put out on pump. With link I probably could have pulled out some timing tocut that down, but ultimately an externally gated setup is 100% the way to go.

**asshanson** · 01-14-2008

I picked up that car last night, didn't go so well. At first it was driving fine, but then on the highway the battery light, check engine light, and brake light all came on at once for a minute, then they all went off. I thought it was strange, but kept driving. Occasionally they would flash for a second, but remained off most of the time.

30 miles down the road the car just does a clunk clunk and dies hard. The motor supposedly had rod knock so I thought the motor was toast, but now I'm thinking maybe the alternator was dead. The lights were pretty dim too.

I'll know in a week or so when I get the motor out i guess.

TkrPerformance · 01-14-2008

shitty