Make slowboy not so slow

[Kracka]

Those gauges look great Andrew!

[asshanson]

Well, a big thanks to Mark and Kevin for helping me this weekend, I got a lot done.

Ran into two major problems though, bolts from O2 housing to downpipe completely twisted off and they were welded to the O2 housing. So we're going to have to cut those out and use new ones. Still have one bolt holding it on so I'll be fine for now, but the 3" downpipe didn't get put on yet.

The other problem was that some Windows app was controlling the COM port and not giving access to DSMLink, so Mark wired my AFC back in temporarily. I think it was my Palm hot-sync program since that used the COM port, I uninstalled that and plan to try the new ECU again tonight.

EDIT: since I have a decent exhaust leak before my wideband because of only 1 bolt holding the downpipe on, will that cause it to read differently? Before my car would cruise at 14.5-15.3 a/f ratio, now it's reading .75 higher almost all the time.

[craig]

yes a big exhaust leak will throw off the wide band reading.

[asshanson]

Got the 3" downpipe on (big thanks to Mark), but I still have an exhaust leak between the o2 housing and the downpipe, I think I'm going to get a new gasket and use some sort of high temp sealer, my wideband is still way lean at idle.

Got DSMlink installed finally, car runs pretty decent but I still have to work out the closed loop fuel and air settings. Here is the link to my log file thread. Can anyone help me out with a few settings? It seems to be super lean and not want to accelerate immediately after shifting in lower RPM range, not sure why.

[Jungy]

You hafta own dsmlink to be a member and view the link forums

[asshanson]

I figured anyone with Link experience would be a member of the board. Anyway, here's the log.

[TkrPerformance]

you need to uninstall the safc even zeroed out the mas wire is still cut and spliced and tring to run through the safc so the dsm link will not read it right till the safc is taken out and mas wire is reconected to the ecu

[Jungy]

I wish I could give you some tips Andrew but I don't have very much link experience, If your were running MS I could prolly help ya out some but thats not the case.

[asshanson]

Alright I figured out why it wasn't running good at all, timing was about 10 degrees after TDC, that sucks. So I set it to 5 degrees BTDC and it feels SO much better, it's amazing what 15 degrees of timing advance will do.

Now my airflow per rev at idle is way better, fuel trims seem normal still at idle, I'm much happier with my car now. I actually did a few full throttle pulls on the highway, first time I've really gotten into it since the headgasket blew last Fall.

However, I still have one major problem to work out, spool absolutely sucks. In 4th gear I can get 5 lbs by 4k rpm, and 10 lbs by 5k rpm, something is pretty out of wack, I know there is an exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold to head, and I still have to check for boost leaks. Hopefully this fixes the super slow spool. In 2nd gear I didn't hit full boost until nearly 6k rpm. It sits solid at 16 lbs of boost though after that, I'm surprised it's that low with a 22 lb wastegate spring. Maybe the spring isn't quite 22 lbs.

Because I'm not getting boost until really late, combined with the 4R cams and the SMIM, the power curve isn't a hump, it's a straight diagonal, power climbs until 7500 which is where I let off for now. I only logged a couple pulls, but I hit 39 lb/min of airflow I believe, not bad for 16 psi and zero tuning. My A/F ratios are pretty good, around 10.7 to 10.8 with the fuel sliders all at zero, and I pulled 2 degrees of timing over 6k rpm just to be safe for now, zero knock at all.

I'm going to try to do a boost leak test in the next couple days and fix my exhaust leak, after that I'm not sure where to start looking for the slow boost reason. One thing I noted was that the estimated boost in link was a good 3-4 lbs lower than actual boost, what does that indicate?

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

Sounds like you have a major boost leak. Once you fix your exhaust leaks and check for boost leaks, you should see alot better spool and higher boost.

[turbotalon1g]

how are you logging boost? i mean is what you are telling us what u see or from a log?
E85? how did u dial in your airflow at idle? did u do all the cruise and idle adjustments?
I get pretty rocking by 5k (20psi plus), its been a week or so for me.

[asshanson]

I am just watching the boost on my gauge which reads pretty accurate, hits 16psi by 6k and holds, can't log it yet, but I should get a map sensor in the future for such purposes. The boost is pretty linear, 5psi by 4k, 10psi by 5k, 16psi by 6k, which is weird.

Standard 92 pump for gas, no e85 for me. I put in the basic settings for my injectors, messed with dead time a bit for the low trim and I got them within 2% of zero. I'll keep logging the next few days and see if they change much.

Once I fixed my timing my airflow per rev went from .37 down to .32 or so, much better according to the link manual.

[DSM_421]

Fix the boost leaks and exhaust leaks, and then bring it to shane for fine tuning.

[Halon]

Are you running the 2G MAS still, or do you have the MAFT?

[DSM_421]

He is running the 2g MAS still, Unhacked...

[turbotalon1g]

So far so good. Check the comp. cover that is where mine was leaking from, i think it loosened up some how.

[A//// Guy]

Do a boost leak test and I would get the sensor so Link can track boost. Then have shane tune it.

[craig]

the wg is set for for 22psi unless you changed the spring in it I ordered it straight from tial with that spring.

[asshanson]

Scheides and I did some diagnostics over at his place Sunday afternoon. I originally went to change to my summer tires (forgot my jack in Iowa) and do a boost leak test, but we ended up doing a compression test as well.

The first obvious problem was the sludge in the intake pipe, coming from the compressor housing. It looks like an oil/coolant mix, which could explain why there is sometimes oil or coolant out the exhaust after I get on it. See pic below.

We then did a boost leak test and found two major leaks. Out the valve cover and out the dipstick. Not a little air coming out, a lot. It probably took 30 seconds to fall from 25psi to nothing. So then we did a compression test and got 150, 151, 145, 145, so that looks pretty good. At the time we didn't know what was going on, so we called it a day.

Then Scheides PMs me last night and says it could be the turbo causing all this. If the seals are really bad on the turbo then the air could get into the center section and into the oil pan, then out the dipstick and valve cover. Seems logical enough to me, since I know a lot of oil/coolant is getting into the compressor housing. As soon as my Red gets here I'll send in the turbo to PTE to have them look at it. 234 hp FTL.

[A//// Guy]

What is your compression at with the engine build? Don't you have 9:1? If you do.. then your engine makes really low compression compared to what it should be, I think.

Sucks the turbo is junk..