PCV System

**Kracka** · 08-10-2007

If the pressure inside the crankcase is greater than the boost level then the PCV valve will open, even while WOT under boost.

Seriously, I think Krank Vents would solve everyone's problem. No more blow-by (or at least seriously less), all the gasses and crap can flow out, and no crap being thrown into the intake track. No more dipstick popping out, better engine efficiency, and less resistance on the engine internals.

**1ViciousGSX** · 08-10-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by S2kracka

If the pressure inside the crankcase is greater than the boost level then the PCV valve will open, even while WOT under boost.

Seriously, I think Krank Vents would solve everyone's problem. No more blow-by (or at least seriously less), all the gasses and crap can flow out, and no crap being thrown into the intake track. No more dipstick popping out, better engine efficiency, and less resistance on the engine internals.

DUDE, if you ever see 30 psi in the crankcase with a vented system, let me know how long it took to blow all of the seals out or lift the valve cover!

You can't say there is no more blowby, it's always there. It's just how you get rid of it that counts.

**Kracka** · 08-10-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1ViciousGSX

DUDE, if you ever see 30 psi in the crankcase with a vented system, let me know how long it took to blow all of the seals out or lift the valve cover!

You can't say there is no more blowby, it's always there. It's just how you get rid of it that counts.

I said IF, not ALWAYS. Not to mention, most factory PCV valves, especially the plastic ones, leak boost into the crankcase. I can say there is no or less blowby since a vacuum in the crankcase helps the piston rings seal better. You can scream all you want about how its impossible and that the crankcase is always going to see preasure blah blah blah blah but Krank Vents and other similar projects have been tested on numerous applications and are always found to be beneficial. One easy to understand real world example is the fact that the dipstick won't pop out anymore. The dipstick will only pop out when the crankcase is seeing preasure, which these Krank Vents eliminate and all of a sudden rather than the dipstick being popped out its being sucked in.

Andrew7dg · 08-10-2007

wow leave for lunch and a bunch of stuff is said....

ok...

I would like to state I don't have any crap in my compressor wheel or intake tube because of my setup. It is pretty much the origional setup but with filters and a heavy duty check valve.

Look at my set up for just a second...

Breather side : VC -> catch can (sealed) -> intake pipe.

intake goes before the turbo just to clarify so it never sees boost

Catch can catches everything that the VC spits out which is kind of a lot of crud. After it is filtered it goes into the turbo. No crap.

Now why don't I just vent to the atmosphere like everyone else...

Because I believe that under high boost/ WOT when the PVC valve is closed there is a lot of blow by. This Breather side takes pressure out because the turbo take in so much air that it creates a vacuum (again before turbo) By having some sort of vacuum on it will take away pressure PLUS suck out unwanted gas. If you have it vented to the atmosphere there is a weird gas smell which I don't like. If this is hooked up to the turbo inlet tube. It does reburn it but it doesn't have the oil to go with it because the catch can caught it.

Make it short

No boost---> air going into valve cover side
Boost ---> air going out of valve cover side

If you have it vented to the atmosphere air goes in (no boost). However when you are running boost, there is pressure in the crank case and it need to go somewhere and by pressure it forces itself out of the breather side and you get weird smelling fumes

The other side

PCV side : VC -> PCV -> optional 2nd catch can (sealed) -> heavy duty check valve -> intake manifold.

I don't get that much crap in this filter but it still works.

I have a heavy duty check valve (good up to 125psi) that helps the pvc valve out. What people are experincing with just using the PVC valve is that the PVC valve won't hold high pressure boost and get pressure going the wrong direction.
Some people have installed the check valve without the catch can and still get good results. Since mine is a street driver I want to be safe and install another filtration system so my intake manifold and heavy duty check valve doesn't plug

Air only goes one way out of this system and that is into the intake manifold.

I have 3 more check valve selling for $2.00. easy for high boost applications.

Now why don't I just remove the PVC valve then? The PVC valve is calibrated for flow ratings. Thats why there is a spring and cost about $110 instead of my easy $2.00 part

This is how I have my system set up. It works for me just fine. I don't get any gas smells plus my turbo, intake, and intercooler is clean. I can also run high boost on my PVC valve with out it failing on me.

Now going onto this expensive $110 kit. I think it is shiny, crome and does everything that the $2.00 part does on the PVC side. However it also puts a check valve on the Breather side. What would this do though... When there is positive crank case (boost) it would let gasses leave, (off boost PVC valve open) it would block air going into the engine. There would be a vacuum at the pvc valve and no air going into the breathing side so what happens, the system has high vacuum and thats why you get the air wooshing in when you pull the dip stick.

http://dsm.dejonpowerhouse.com/
Has the product and look how it is set up.