Shaky steerling when I hit the brakes?

[Matt D.]

Originally Posted by M/// Guy

Its not a band aid. They actually do straighten the rotor out by cutting the high parts past the low spots to make it perfectly flat. How do you think flywheel resurfacing works? Its the exact same process. So using a resurfaced flywheel is a bandaid then?

I have operated a lathe, I know how turning rotors is done. My point is that when you look a warped rotor the whole thing wobbles, not just the surfaces. A warped rotor that is turned down is just going to warp that much faster. There's also quite a bit more "meat" to a flywheel than a brake rotor, it's not going to warp to the extremity that a rotor would.

[tim]

I agree that you need to have the rotors either turned or replaced but I also think you should look into some front end repair.

If you have slop in your rod ends you should replace them, no questions asked. If you have movement in your rack and pinion you should take care of that too. If you let any of those parts go to long you are just asking for trouble.


As far as replacing or turning your rotors. Turn them if you have enough material left to do so. They arent going to 'warp' any faster then new ones, that is what the 'turn to' spec is there for. If not go to the parts store and buy a new pair. Dont buy the cheapest ones but something in the middle range is probably going to be the equivilant to anything you buy at the dealer.

Oh and for all of you e-mechanics. A rotor with .005" runout is considered out of spec to most manufacturers but will hardly be noticable in the pedal. When you feel your wheel shake after hitting the pedal you are more than likely experiencing 'disk thickness variation.' You can feel DTV if there is as much as .002" variation when measuring thickness in different spots.