Its here!!!! - Page 3

turbotalon1g · 03-16-2006

wish i could be there for the inaugural run. That thing looks bad ass!! One day my dsm will be able to turn a roller or two.
skeet! skeet!! skeet!!!
(Congrats again)

Shrep · 03-17-2006

Actually, inertia dyno's "load" decreases as the drum speed increases.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecoli

In the real world, a 30psi Honda does not stay at 7000RPMs for 30 seconds

Well...I think that depends on what the car is being used for.

I've seen plenty of high hp hondas who's owners will accept a 5 gear race, or a top end run, or sit and burn the rubber off the tires for fun...

If the tune (including cooling) is correct, this should not be a problem.

TheBlizzard · 03-17-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shrep

Actually, inertia dyno's "load" decreases as the drum speed increases.

Well...I think that depends on what the car is being used for.
If the tune (including cooling) is correct, this should not be a problem.

I think it has more to do with what mods are on the car in question. If you have to small of an FMIC and or a turbo that is out of its efficiency your going to heat soak no matter how you "tune" it. And the longer you stay in it the worse its going to get.

Now if you were not pushing the car to the limits then I could see it being ran at a given RPM and boost for a extended period of time.

But when you start getting into the 30+ psi range on most cars, if you ran them constantly at that boost and 7k RPM something would break no matter how good your tune is. You would have to have knock retard setup pretty aggresively so that when the car heat soaks, it will pull shit loads of timing or something.

niterydr · 03-17-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBlizzard

I think it has more to do with what mods are on the car in question. If you have to small of an FMIC and or a turbo that is out of its efficiency your going to heat soak no matter how you "tune" it. And the longer you stay in it the worse its going to get.

Now if you were not pushing the car to the limits then I could see it being ran at a given RPM and boost for a extended period of time.

But when you start getting into the 30+ psi range on most cars, if you ran them constantly at that boost and 7k RPM something would break no matter how good your tune is. You would have to have knock retard setup pretty aggresively so that when the car heat soaks, it will pull shit loads of timing or something.

Very good points. I think Shrep's point is that for 99.5% of the tuning you can do load based. You can load the car at say, 4000rpm, and watch the a/f swing as you give it: No load, Light Load, Medium Load, and Max load. This will simulate nearly all the conditions (it is very hard to get accel and decel tuning in on the dyno, that is still best left to the street at normal speeds). If you are tuning say 8000rpm at 30psi on...well my car, I'll go bump the site real quick, almost as fast as I would on an intertia pull. I'll hold it there for a few seconds more than the dyno would just using ramp speed. This will allow me to grab a few snapshots with all my logging software to make sure that the tune is fine. If I can't make my adjustments fast enough in real time, I will back down the car, make my changes, and go revisit the site.
When you get fast with steady state tuning, you can rip through the cells in no-time (pending what system you have, what the car is, etc). I know when we were out at XX tuning, at the end of the sessions we could just fly through the Autronic software.
It is a very risky business, and you have to have a good head on your shoulders when you are dyno tuning. Common sence still needs to be practiced, but you also have to faith in your tools.

Shrep · 03-17-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBlizzard

I think it has more to do with what mods are on the car in question. If you have to small of an FMIC and or a turbo that is out of its efficiency your going to heat soak no matter how you "tune" it. And the longer you stay in it the worse its going to get.

I guess that's kind of what I was trying to say. If it's built right, there shouldn't be a problem

As far as the specific example (the honda), you and Shane are right, it's gonna blow. But that's obviously a setup that doesn't need steady state tuning...cause if it's that close to the brink, it's either a drag only car, or a dyno queen.

So I guess when Shane said "It's not like you are going to be doing steady state loaded tuning at 8500RPMs at on a Honda running 30psi either", we probably could have just said..."you're right", but it's the insinuation that we don't know what we're talking about that I was more intentioned on addressing.

It seems like Shane was trying to make us look dumb for buying a dyno that we'll never grow out of, and in the process implying that we don't know what we're doing.

The fact is, there are some high hp fwd cars out there that are daily drivers, road racers and autocrossers. All three types are best tuned for more than WOT.

**JET** · 03-17-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shrep

If the tune (including cooling) is correct, this should not be a problem.

Yeah, because you will have plenty of air going through the radiator and IC, just like you would on the street. When is the wind tunnel being constructed?

Jakey · 03-17-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by JET

Yeah, because you will have plenty of air going through the radiator and IC, just like you would on the street. When is the wind tunnel being constructed?

Barn fan.

Shrep · 03-17-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by JET

Yeah, because you will have plenty of air going through the radiator and IC, just like you would on the street. When is the wind tunnel being constructed?

It's being drop shipped.

TheBlizzard · 03-17-2006

I don't think anyone was trying to make anyone look dumb. Just asking a simple question. The extra retarder on the front axle is cool and all. It will let you put cars on the dyno the same direction and not have to move things around. And you could dyno a 2700whp AWD. But is that really worth an extra 10k. Hey its your money, it was just a question. And as far as load tuning goes the way Swanny explained it makes more sense. Using the dyno in that fashion makes perfect sense but holding your car at 30PSI at 8000k for 30 seconds is going have ill effects no matter how you stack it. Unless you are spraying your IC with NOS the whole time to keep your AITs way down.

But loading it down for a few more second on the top of the pull would have benefits I could see since your sample would be a little more accurate and easier to diagnose problems if there is any.

Tauni · 03-17-2006

Congrats boys!

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 03-17-2006

What fan did you guys get with your dyno?

What sucks is when you have to go from a nice realtime standalone system that you can do instant realtime steady state tuning in, to something that requires a reflash or chip reburn with every change. The Autronic system is one of the best and quickest for using when doing steady state tuning, if you setup the target A/F table before hand, so you don't have to think about what you want at every load point while you are actually tuning.

Jakey · 03-17-2006

What is the maxiumum vehicle width and wheelbase you fellas can fit on your dyno?

niterydr · 03-17-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecoli

What fan did you guys get with your dyno?

What sucks is when you have to go from a nice realtime standalone system that you can do instant realtime steady state tuning in, to something that requires a reflash or chip reburn with every change. The Autronic system is one of the best and quickest for using when doing steady state tuning, if you setup the target A/F table before hand, so you don't have to think about what you want at every load point while you are actually tuning.

No shit and amen to that. The tunability between a standalone and your basic piggyback setup isn't even compariable.
We are having one drop shipped from Patterson Fan. Did you guys get one with your dyno? It is something like 13000cfm. We should be expecting it early next week.
Jakey-
89" to 138" wheelbase
9,900lb max vehicle weight.

We just threw our 2500 truck on there, its a tight fit, but it fits.

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 03-18-2006

We got some huge radial fan, ok for getting some air to the engine bay or flow through the room, but the squirrel cage style fans are a lot better at getting directed air to the radiator or intercooler.

niterydr · 03-18-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecoli

We got some huge radial fan, ok for getting some air to the engine bay or flow through the room, but the squirrel cage style fans are a lot better at getting directed air to the radiator or intercooler.

Yeah, those little blue ones rock.
When we were out at XXTuning, they had dual yellow ones. A bit larger than the standard "blue" ones you see. They had them configured for a subaru. One was mounted on a stand, pointed downward at the engine bay (or directly at a TMIC). The other was at the radiator. Its a slick setup, and we'll probably jack the idea.

EclipseGST · 03-19-2006

Now from looking at the pictures on your site... Is that thing transportable?

It looks nice as hell! So tiny but so badass! Congrats on the dyno guys. I will definately be giving you some business!

Shrep · 03-20-2006

No...not portable. Bolted to the floor.

Pushit2.0 · 03-20-2006

People make the 2wd ones portable all the time. This one will stay bolted to the floor.

~John

1slowdsm · 03-21-2006

Very nice looking Dyno. I hope to one day have my car dyno'd there. But that's like another year away. This year it's just maintenance, maintenance, maintenance!

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 03-23-2006

Congratulations guys. I'm glad to see that business seems to be going well. It's almost spring time so it's almost time to get back into the dsms =/ I'll probably check 'er out sometime soon! Again, Congrats !