stroker kit help

[kennydawgg]

Ok I have been doing some reading and from what I understand you can use a crank from a 2.4 and a 2.0 block to make a 2.3 stroker. Now using stock pistons you need to find rods that are 6mm shorter than the stock rods. Does anyone know of a rod that size that comes stock on another car? preferably one that is fairly beefy. I think it would be cheaper to find shorter rods than pay 600 for pistons that have the wrist pin moved up.

[b00stcreep21]

Why would you cheap out on building a motor? Just spend the cash and do it right

[turbotalon1g]

Read some more and learn that it costs money to build a motor other than a stock rebuild.

[Goat Blower]

You could always cut 6mm out of some stock rods and weld them back together if you're on that much of a budget.

BTW, it's probably cheaper to build a 2.4 since the pistons and rods are plain old off the shelf stuff and you don't have the shorter ring lands.

[turbotalon1g]

I know someone that builds them at a great price too. ^

[Shane@DBPerformance]

You can get a set of 2.3l or 2.4l stroker pistons for under $500.

[kennydawgg]

Originally Posted by Goat Blower

You could always cut 6mm out of some stock rods and weld them back together if you're on that much of a budget.

Yea I could do that but I don't think they make a J. B. weld that will take the heat

As far as spending the money to build a motor, there is no reason to spend money like its going out of style when you can find quality parts that came from the factory (like using a 1g bov on a 2g . . ).

[b00stcreep21]

understandable. When you find that oem 2.3L, let us know

[JET]

Just run the 2.0 if you want to go cheap. If not, you are going to need custom pistons (2.4 or 2.3). I guess you could run the 2.4 pistons, but they aren't meant for boost, but I heard they will take some power.

[kennydawgg]

What I am thinking about using is the 2.0 pistons with a 2.0 block and the 2.4 crank I have. The problem is that at tdc the piston sits above the deck, hence the need for a different piston or a shorter rod. Just trying to evaluate my options with the parts I have available. I figured someone might have heard of a rod that would work, I'm sure theres one out there somewhere.

The 2.4 worked well under boost but running partially tunned for 10k they eventually tanked, or so I think, I haven't torn it down completely to see what caused the rod to break. Probably detonation but I'm not sure since egts never went above 1400f

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Most cars don't have rods nearly as strong as the ones found in DSMs, so even if there were some, there is a good chance that they wouldn't be worth using anyways.

EGT don't tell you that much. They are effected the most by ignition timing. High timing = low EGTs, low timing = high EGTs. They don't tell you if the car is detonating or going to blow up. You should see over 1400f though even under perfectly normal conditions. Was the sensor probe after the turbo or bad?

[Super Bleeder!!]

Just use the 1g rods and stack like 15 headgaskets on top of each other to make up for the protruding piston.

Im only suggesting this because i think you may actually think this is a viable option. haw haw

[crazy_skier]

well along with superbleeders idea, if you were going to actually do something like that just get a piece of metal machined like a h/g and then run a thin head gasket on each side of it.... so you would have a metal spacer. Now don't get mad at me if it blows up the first time you boost her


I actually wonder if that could work???

after a few moments of thinking, you would need the metal "gasket" to be 100% flush with the cylinders in every way.... so that would be the weak point maybe????

[Shane@DBPerformance]

It's called a deck plate. It's been done in all-motor Honda applications to get a bigger stroker motor, but still retain a long rod and good rod ratio for high reving.

[iceminion]

ok, listen up, you can go fast as shit on a 2.0.

Sell that 2.4, people who plan on doing a $3000 engine build will budget for an expensive crank.

take the money and buy a set of rings and hone out your stock block.

adding .4L of displacement wont do shit to your car, chances you are going to be running a 14b on a 1g manifold with a 1g mas....not worth the effort.

I did an ebay rebuild kit with .20 over pistons.....after having the block bored and decked all said and done the total rebuild cost less then $500.

Here is a good recipe for a fast 2.0 DSM.
stock ecu
550cc injectors
2g mas, 2g manifold
open downpipe
v-trim turbo
big cams (272)

thats what I have in my garage, and its fast as shit! going through tires like you wouldnt believe, 4wd burnouts FTW!

to be honest, I would have rather stayed 2.0 on my other DSM(GVR) (i have a 2.3) and used the money elsewhere on my car!

[Goat Blower]

Originally Posted by iceminion

adding .4L of displacement wont do shit to your car, chances you are going to be running a 14b on a 1g manifold with a 1g mas....not worth the effort.

Adding 20% more displacement won't do anything? You've obviously never driven a 2.4 car then. Night and day difference with anything larger than a 16G.

[Halon]

Buildling a 2.3 shouldn't cost all that much more than a 2.0. You don't need different rods, you still use the everyday off the shelf rods you'd use in a 2.0 build. What you need is the stroker pistons, which typically are the same price as the 2.0. They just raise the wrist pin location on the piston. The only real added cost is the 2.4 crank you have to purchase (which it sounds like you already have one), and possibly some material removal on the inside of the block.

Link to pistons that you could use. http://www.maperformance.com/store/home.php?cat=1437
You'll see the stroker pistons and the standard 2.0 pistons are the same price. Looks like Wiseco and Ross also makes some for the same price as their off the shelf 2.0 ones.

I was considering a 2.3 build awhile back, but got scared off a bit when I was finding out that the 2.4 cranks weren't all created equal. Some people found there's were hardened, and others found theirs weren't. When I found a company that sold used cranks, they said they could not verify whether or not they were hardened, so I ended up just staying 2.0.