Need help, misfiring and dying

[BLaCk_1cE]

Hey everyone, I have a pretty major problem on my hands, its that my car is running very crappy right now. Anyone help me please. Exact problems are that

1. misfires

2. car almost wants to die at idle (idles at about 650rpms), and has a loud rattling in the engine and kind of sounds like rattling under the car too. I can open the hood at idle and see my intake to the turbo just shuttering back and forth with that loud rattling noise.

3. After driving it for tests to see if problems get ANY better (which they dont), I come to a stop light and when i slow down all you hear is backfiring. I come to a stop and my car literally drops to 100 rpms and almost dies, then a have to peddle the gas to raise it back to 600 rpms (which is where it idles now cuz of this whole problem)

4. When I floor it, the first time out of the test runs that i floor it, it goes good. But if i try to floor it again, it wont go. it then bogs like crazy if i try going on her again. I can only get one good run out of her per time i test it.

For better diagnosis, I have replaced the following to the car so far

1. New MSD coil tower

2. New spark plug wires

3. New spark plugs (NGK BKR7E, gapped to .035"

None of those helped it whatsoever though. It runs the same as it did before I did all those replacements. I also remember now that I threw in some iso-heet randomly one day about a week and a half ago (still this tank of gas, now half tank full though), could that be anything of a problem you think? Could I try also even running some injector cleaner? Or clean the throttle body or something?

It ran fine a few days ago, but then I ran it hard one night, but I replaced all the ignition type things. Cuz I mean it was running great that night, until i stopped at walgreens, parked, then 10 minutes later started it and it ran like this. Any help is greatly GREATLY appreciated!

[Kracka]

What kind of spark plugs are those? You should be using NGK BPR6ES or 7ES's gapped to .028-.031".

[bluntedelvis]

Could be your Maft took a dump on you? If you have a spare one laying around try swaping. When you pulled your old plugs what did they look like?

[BLaCk_1cE]

Originally Posted by S2kracka

What kind of spark plugs are those? You should be using NGK BPR6ES or 7ES's gapped to .028-.031".

The plugs are as stated, NGK BKR-7E and they are gapped to .035".

Originally Posted by bluntedelvis

Could be your Maft took a dump on you? If you have a spare one laying around try swaping. When you pulled your old plugs what did they look like?

I dont have a spare one lying around so thats out of the picture for me, i dont have enough to get a new one either. When I pulled the old plugs they are just black, I know I am running rich though like crazy. But its never affected anything before like it has this time.

[bananas]

also check for any broken or leaking hoses/connections

[tim]

Originally Posted by BLaCk_1cE

The plugs are as stated, NGK BKR-7E and they are gapped to .035".

I think what he was trying to say is why are you using those plugs.

[BLaCk_1cE]

Originally Posted by tim

I think what he was trying to say is why are you using those plugs.

Oh i didnt notice he said BPR. The reason I use those is because on 2gnt.com they all were telling me to use bkr-7e's so i got those! I will check for loose connections though and hoses anywhere. It is just so hard to see in there. Maybe I will just take it to a shop.

[tim]

Originally Posted by BLaCk_1cE

Oh i didnt notice he said BPR. The reason I use those is because on 2gnt.com they all were telling me to use bkr-7e's so i got those! I will check for loose connections though and hoses anywhere. It is just so hard to see in there. Maybe I will just take it to a shop.

I see. So your car is a NT then. Might want to add that to your first post.

[BLaCk_1cE]

No its turbo, I just am a part of that site cuz a lot of the guys on there are 420a turbos, which is what I am as well! Anyone have a spare ECU lying around?

[Shane@DBPerformance]

We still need to know that it was a 2GNT orginally. The turbo 2Gs are totally different as far engine, ignition, spark plug type, coil type, ECU, etc than a turboed 2GNT.

So, it runs that same with the stock ignition stuff on it as it does with the MSD stuff? Are you sure some plug wires aren't going to the wrong cylinders?

It sounds like an ignition problem, or the MAP sensor is getting a bad reading, or maybe you blew up the motor. With the engine running, try pulling out each plug wire 1 cylinder at a time to see if there is no change in the way it runs with any of the cylinders.

[BLaCk_1cE]

Originally Posted by ecoli

We still need to know that it was a 2GNT orginally. The turbo 2Gs are totally different as far engine, ignition, spark plug type, coil type, ECU, etc than a turboed 2GNT.

True. sorry I didnt mention that earlier!

Originally Posted by ecoli

So, it runs that same with the stock ignition stuff on it as it does with the MSD stuff? Are you sure some plug wires aren't going to the wrong cylinders?

Yep runs the same. I think MSD is about the same as stock though anyways isnt it? Ill check the plug wires though! I dont think I could wire them wrong though! I mean isnt it pretty straight forward, or is there something I should know?

Originally Posted by ecoli

It sounds like an ignition problem, or the MAP sensor is getting a bad reading, or maybe you blew up the motor. With the engine running, try pulling out each plug wire 1 cylinder at a time to see if there is no change in the way it runs with any of the cylinders.

I dont think the engine took a crap on me (knock on wood), cuz everything is forged. How could I check the MAP sensor? I will also try the pulling off the plug wire also. If that is the case with the whole plug wire pulling off thing.. how do I fix it?

[Shane@DBPerformance]

If you have the car running and you pull a plug wire out, the way the car runs should change. If it doesn't change and the wire is sparking to the engine, then you know you have spark and maybe it is a problem withfuel on cyclinder or it has no compression. If if doesn't change and wire isn't trying to send spark anywhere, then you know it's an ignition problem.

Forged internals don't make a motor bullet proof or indestructable. Their purpose is to handle more power, they will fail also from detonation, pre-ignition, overheating, etc. They will withstand more beating than stock stuff, but it is still easy to blow up a built engine.

[BLaCk_1cE]

Alright after doing the plug wire test, All wires were giving off spark, but 2 of them, the 2 coming from the right tower side, are not sparking as much as the others were, so yeah. As for gas on cylinder, how would i go about diagnosing and fixing it? Does anyone recommend i take it to a mechanic/shop?

[scheides]

Ok, so try replacing whatever powers those wires, whether its the MSD box, factory coil, etc.

[BLaCk_1cE]

I think I may have a timing problem on my hand. Could timing really be thrown off by driving it hard for a night like i did? Looks like the time has come to FINALLY get her tuned. I am like almost 100% sure its timing, because I have done everything ignition wise, and I dont think it would be bad compression. So I have narrowed it down to timing. I will be coming to a shop near you, soon.

[tim]

Originally Posted by BLaCk_1cE

I think I may have a timing problem on my hand. Could timing really be thrown off by driving it hard for a night like i did? Looks like the time has come to FINALLY get her tuned. I am like almost 100% sure its timing, because I have done everything ignition wise, and I dont think it would be bad compression. So I have narrowed it down to timing. I will be coming to a shop near you, soon.

I would make sure it is in top running order before you bring it in somewhere to get tuned. If you need to schedule some shop time to get it running right then do it, but dont schedule tuning time if it is running the way it is.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Depends what youmean by timing. There is having the timing belt lined up correctly, there is ignition timing, there is cam timing, there is setting your base timing with a CAS or distributor, etc which are all different.

[BLaCk_1cE]

Well, I havent done much with the car as of late, so i decided to drive it to autozone to get checked for codes because I wasnt sure if the CEL was even supposed to be on (CEL burnt out). They scanned it, and it came back with 5 codes, 1 for the EGR, and the other 4 for each cylinder. I wish I wouldve written down the exact codes, but all I remember is it was something about the exhaust gas recirculation and that something was happening in turn, to all four cylinders.


I drove it home, parked it in the driveway. Went back about 3 or 4 hours later, car wont start. It cranks and will have that noise like its about to compress or something, but once it is JUST about to start, it just doesnt and continues to keep cranking over.

Anyone think that it is my MAP sensor thats f-ed? If so, should I just go 3.5 bar? cuz I cant even find the damn EGR in my car. I have 2 eclipses, and the other one is also 420a (but NOT turboed) and I can see the EGR valve fine, on the passenger side of the engine. God. someone please PLEASE help me


Edit: Alright now the car wont even crank over. It just sits there and does nothing, no cranking at all. I had my dad push me and try to pop start the car, and thats when it started to not even crank anymore. before we tried pop starting it, it cranked, but wouldnt start. now it just does nothing. Anyone have any ideas, or that could come out here and help me... Ill buy you a case or somethin! I would go to a shop, but cant drive!

[BLaCk_1cE]

Anyone?

[Shane55113]

If your Egr is stuck open at idle then that would explain your crappy idle. Egr is used at cruise speeds like on the highway mostly. When the engine is cold it richens up the Afr allot, so theoretically if the egr is stuck open wide and your engine is cold it will let allot of exhaust back into the cylinders which will displace oxygen and cause the rich fuel mixture to not ignight.

Try swapping the egr's from car to car.