Make slowboy not so slow - Page 4

A//// Guy · 12-06-2007

Yea Ive done it without the tool also, you just have to eye it, and wiggle. But it is much easier with the tool.

**asshanson** · 12-10-2007

Lots of progress tonight in 2 sessions, with a break in the middle to regain feeling in my fingers and toes. Also, the crappy florescent lights in the garage didn't turn on in the cold so I had to use a flashlight for most everything not on top of the engine. They finally turned on at 10pm.

I got all the emissions stuff removed, got the shifter cables back on, got almost everything on the wiring harness hooked back up, heater hoses, etc. Also got xfer case on, and axles in place.

Tomorrow I should have the entire drivetrain and front suspension back together, slave cylinder on, the rest of the coolant hoses back on, the radiator, IC pipes, and battery.

A couple quick questions I have regarding the 1g intake mani that I've had laying around for awhile. On the back there is a little piece of wire screwed in, it's black with a yellow stripe I think (like a ground wire?), and it's been cut to an inch or shorter. What's this wire for, I didn't see one on my 2g mani?

Also, bolted onto the 2g manifold on the drivers side there is a tiny cylinder which plugs into the end of the wiring harness. Not one of the big square or triangle plugs, but a skinny black plug. What is that cylinder, and do I need it?

Oh, and is it a big deal to have coolant lines running to/from the TB? The motor I got had those two nipples recirculated to each other so I'm assuming he didn't have them hooked up to the TB.

**Kracka** · 12-10-2007

Don't worry about the ground strap and you should be fine w/o coolant running to the TB.

**JET** · 12-11-2007

The little cylinder is a filter to help take ignition noise out. It isn't a bad idea to leave it on the car. I would hook up the ground strap, there are only 3 on a DSM that i can think of, getting rid of 1 isn't a good idea. I know some guys have to add more with the alt. relocation kit.

**asshanson** · 12-11-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by JET

I would hook up the ground strap, there are only 3 on a DSM that i can think of, getting rid of 1 isn't a good idea.

Are these the three you are talking about?

1. Straight from battery to firewall, just a few inches long
2. From battery down to transmission, hooks on with one of the starter bolts
3. Intake mani to firewall

**1ViciousGSX** · 12-11-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by slowboy

Are these the three you are talking about?

1. Straight from battery to firewall, just a few inches long
2. From battery down to transmission, hooks on with one of the starter bolts
3. Intake mani to firewall

Yes

**Kracka** · 12-11-2007

If you can't get the stock strap to work, custom make one with some stereo wire.

**asshanson** · 12-11-2007

That's the thing, it's less than an inch long off the intake mani, so I have no idea where it hooked up originally, especially since my 2g mani never had one. Just hook it up to the firewall, or to the battery? What would that accomplish, just ground the intake mani?

**scheides** · 12-11-2007

Yup, that's all you need to do. You don't even actually have to use that same wire, maybe just make a new one and connect the intake mani to the frame. Do it on from the bottom somewhere where it'll be a little more hidden, it will look nicer.

Congrats on the progress!

A//// Guy · 12-11-2007

Thats some nice progress! Theres not too much left to do, almost fire up time!

**JET** · 12-11-2007

The wire bolts onto the firewall right behind the manifold, anywhere on there is fine.

Kevin 1G Drummer · 12-11-2007

There's also one more from the transmission to the frame rail. At least there is on mine.

**Kracka** · 12-11-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevin_1G_Drummer

There's also one more from the transmission to the frame rail. At least there is on mine.

Yup.

**asshanson** · 12-11-2007

Worked on it quite a bit today, and everything was going slow as usual so I didn't get done everything I wanted to.

However, the front wheel assemblies are all put together except for the center nut thingy, which is like 30mm and I don't have a socket that big, but I should have one tomorrow.

Also, I spent like an hour dealing with these stupid studs on the intake mani. They are an inch longer than the usual length and it took FOREVER to get them off. It took three nuts together as tight as I could, and a couple tries with that to get them broken loose. These are the stupid little problems I've been dealing with the entire process.

A//// Guy · 12-12-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by slowboy

Worked on it quite a bit today, and everything was going slow as usual so I didn't get done everything I wanted to.

However, the front wheel assemblies are all put together except for the center nut thingy, which is like 30mm and I don't have a socket that big, but I should have one tomorrow.

Also, I spent like an hour dealing with these stupid studs on the intake mani. They are an inch longer than the usual length and it took FOREVER to get them off. It took three nuts together as tight as I could, and a couple tries with that to get them broken loose. These are the stupid little problems I've been dealing with the entire process.

So whats left? Also did you find the harness, and the banjo bolt yet? Also call map about tranny fluid.

**asshanson** · 12-12-2007

The IC pipes and radiator are left still, but I'll probably get those done tonight after work. After that it's pretty much just getting the fluids in, wiring the CAS harness (which I hope to find in the junkyard after work), and getting the banjo bolt for the oil feed line.

I have a question though, about the power transistor unit, I think that's what it's called. When reading through the Magnus tutorial about the 6 bolt swap, it said to use the 2g power transistor with a custom mounting bracket. I see that there is no spot on the 1g intake mani to mount it, and the 1g coil pack doesn't have a spot for it either. What exactly is this part, and can I just ziptie it securely to something? Why was it mounted to the 2g coil pack originally? Just for fun, or does it have to have an electrical connection to it?

b00stcreep21 · 12-11-2007

The axle nuts are 32mm's

**scheides** · 12-12-2007

blageo made a nice mount for his to go on his intake manifold, I don't remember where mine was. If nothing else, make sure the metal part is grounded, as I think those get fairly hot and need to dissipate heat.

crazy_skier · 12-13-2007

thats some great progress... post up some pics when its all said and done

**asshanson** · 12-17-2007

ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I can't even begin to describe my happiness right now, it's so great to be able to drive my car again, after 2 solid months without it. HUGE thanks to Peter for driving down here and helping it get put 100% back together, was a good weekend of work/bar time.

There were a few major issues at the end of the process, and some aren't completely worked out yet, but it drives. Here's a list of the outstanding issues:

1. Throttle cable or throttle body isn't setup right, maybe TPS sensor isn't setup right either (I used my 2g tps). At first the throttle body/cable was sticky and when we were first driving the throttle got stuck open at like 10%. We used some PB blaster to loosen it up and it seems to work better now, I took it for another spin around Des Moines and the throttle goes back to .1 or .2 % now. Not 0%, but close enough for me to drive back home.

2. Car idles oddly, BISS screw is all the way in, and I can't find any super obvious air leaks in the intake. When cold it idles at 1800, then warms up and goes down to 1400rpm, and sometimes dip to 1000 quickly, then back. Maybe related to the throttle body issues. I used my 2g ISC, so that shouldn't be the issue.

3. Logger doesn't work since the palm battery died and I'm sure it lost the program from memory, so I have to wait until I get back to start logging. Which means I can't set the Cam Angle Sensor. I have it set to the middle of the adjustment for now, so it's at unknown base timing for now. I'm not going to get into boost until I get these issues fixed, so I should be safe.

4. Coolant is leaking very slowly from the water neck where the line goes to the overflow bottle. I'm going to replace the radiator cap when I get back and get a real hose clamp to tighten the overflow line instead of the metal clip on there now.

5. Starter is acting up sometimes. It seems to try starting for a second normally, and then the starter seems to spin freely, just makes a high pitch whining. I try to start again and it starts right up within 1 second. What could cause this?

That's all I can think of for now, I'm just happy it turned on without any real problems. Here's some of the other things we ran into:

1. 1G CAS harness to 2g plugs adapter from Magnus didn't get overnighted, even though I paid the $55 extra for it. In the end I just custom made one which is ghetto, but works for now. The real one should arrive tomorrow, I'll try to get my shipping refunded.

2. Clutch adjustment screw wasn't set right for the 2900. It scared me bad, because we finally got it working, and I tried to get it in gear and it wouldn't disengage the clutch, luckily I adjusted it and it works now. I don't mind the 2900 that much at all, I don't know what people complain about, maybe it'll get annoying after awhile.

3. Lower radiator pipe had to be rigged up below the LICP since there is a stupid counter weight on the transmission blocking that route for the pipe.

I'm tired now, going to bed.