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Originally Posted by TheBlizzard
I think it has more to do with what mods are on the car in question. If you have to small of an FMIC and or a turbo that is out of its efficiency your going to heat soak no matter how you "tune" it. And the longer you stay in it the worse its going to get.
Now if you were not pushing the car to the limits then I could see it being ran at a given RPM and boost for a extended period of time.
But when you start getting into the 30+ psi range on most cars, if you ran them constantly at that boost and 7k RPM something would break no matter how good your tune is. You would have to have knock retard setup pretty aggresively so that when the car heat soaks, it will pull shit loads of timing or something.
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Very good points. I think Shrep's point is that for 99.5% of the tuning you can do load based. You can load the car at say, 4000rpm, and watch the a/f swing as you give it: No load, Light Load, Medium Load, and Max load. This will simulate nearly all the conditions (it is very hard to get accel and decel tuning in on the dyno, that is still best left to the street at normal speeds). If you are tuning say 8000rpm at 30psi on...well my car, I'll go bump the site real quick, almost as fast as I would on an intertia pull. I'll hold it there for a few seconds more than the dyno would just using ramp speed. This will allow me to grab a few snapshots with all my logging software to make sure that the tune is fine. If I can't make my adjustments fast enough in real time, I will back down the car, make my changes, and go revisit the site.
When you get fast with steady state tuning, you can rip through the cells in no-time (pending what system you have, what the car is, etc). I know when we were out at XX tuning, at the end of the sessions we could just fly through the Autronic software.
It is a very risky business, and you have to have a good head on your shoulders when you are dyno tuning. Common sence still needs to be practiced, but you also have to faith in your tools.
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