ARP Head bolt install help needed.

[TheBlizzard]

I have never heard of people lubing the threads that go into the block.

CRAIG

[Onefast99gsx]

Just got off the phone with a good friend that runs a 850HP Hemi. I found that he does the same thing i did, lube both ends of the stud, the washers and the nuts. He said there is nothing wrong with lubing both ends of the studs. I think if the directions said not to lube the block thread part, it would say. I can call ARP to confirm but i don't think there is a reason too. He also said before i put the valve cover back on to recheck the torque once more because they may settle.

[JET]

You should not lube the end that goes in the block. You guys are argueing saying that ARP doesn't say whether to use loc-tite or not, yet almost all of you tightened your studs into the block. ARP specifically says not to do that, only finger tighten them. Part of the problem with just tightening them is that there may me a little something trapped in the bottom of the hole and it doesn't seep past the threads until later. Then you have a loose stud in there that you thought was bottomed out. With loc-tite even if it isn't bottomed out, the loc-tite will still hold it in place.

[Onefast99gsx]

Ok- just to clarify i brought my sheet in with me.

[3] a. If cylinder head studs protrude into water jacket, lubricate the block threads of the studs with ARP THREAD SEALER.
b. If cylinder head studs protrude in blind hole, lubricate the block threads of the studs with ARP ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT or 30wt motor oil.
c. Screw studs into the block "HAND TIGHT ONLY".
Note: LOCTITE MAY BE USED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE STUDS IS PREFERRED. THE FASTENERS HOWEVER, MUST BE TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCKTITE SETTING UP.

PRELOAD (TORQUE) RECOMMENDATIONS:
[A] Torque valvues are based on 75% of the fasteners yield strength. Use the manufactures torque sequence but do not use the engine manufacturers torque specs. Torque the nuts to 70ft lbs for ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT (or ARP THREAD SEALER) or 85ft lbs. with 30wt motor oil.
[B] Due to the expansion rateof aluminum, it is recommended that the torque should be 65 ft lbs with ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT (or ARP THREAD SEALER)


So.... JET is right about the Loctite. It "IS" an option. Our studs protrude into a blind hole. It's an oil hole but the thread hole itself is a blind hole. There is nothing wrong with using MOLY LUB on the lower threads. READ the directions.

The only part i'm confused about is where the 90 to 110 ft comes in. I don't understand where that comes into play. I read nothing about them torque specs. Is that something that one guy tried, then another, and another or what? Let's say you are at 75 ft lbs. and that is 75% of the fasteners yield strength. So if you were at 100ft lbs, you'd be at a 100% strength. So isn't that getting close to where the bolt would 'snap'?

[At-Least-It's-An-Evo]

100ft-lbs is a bit excessive. 85 ft-lbs should be good enough, but most peopel will go 90-95 ft/lbs for the hell of it.

The main problem with putting moly-lube on the thread in the block is that it can get trapped under the studs on our blocks and cause problems. You only have to go finger tight because a stud will do fine as long as it have plenty of threads to hold onto. And you don't want to tighten the stud on it's own down so far that it the bottom of the bolt hole causes some kind of sideways force of the stud.

[Onefast99gsx]

I agree on everything you say. -AND- When i put moly on the lower threads i didn't smear so much on that you couldn't even see the threads. I did just did enough to apply a light film of it. I think it's more of an anti-seize than anything.

I'm just gonna stop worrying about it. It's bolted down. I'm gonna retorque after i get some miles on it to about 80-85lbs and be done with it. I worry too much. I just gotta get the dam car going. Now it's the Magnus/Battery and IC piping problem. Somebody was right on here. For ever 1 project you do, it yields about 5 more projects in return.

[Raptor]

Anyone have a 6 bolt stud out of the motor? I am curious as to how long the threaded section is on them. I would check but all of mine are installed at the moment.

[Goat Blower]

I always used a little bit of oil on the threads going into the block and tightened them finger tight. When you torque down the nuts, the studs turn a bit as well tightening them into the block.

I'm positive ARP's old directions called for 110 lb/ft with 30wt oil in our application, and I know it didn't have anything about loc-tite. They've obviously changed their direction sheet in recent years. My new motor is torque plated to ARP's standard spec.

[Goat Blower]

Hah, sure enough, my memory serves me right. I just pulled the direction sheet from two separate boxes of ARP studs. Both say 80 ft/lbs with their moly and 120 ft/lbs with 30wt oil. I knew I didn't pull that number out of my ass when I used to do this crap more often. I'm puzzled why onefast99gsx's directions were different though, unless he's using 2G studs.

Thankfully I've got plenty of ARP moly laying around now so I can use their lighter specs. ;)

[Onefast99gsx]

Hi Goat Blower, Yes, i'm using 2g ARP's. I wrote those directions word for word off the sheet they sent with the studs. I suppose it would depend on the diameter of the head studs. Which stud is bigger, the 1g or the 2g??? If the 2g stud is smaller diameter then that's clearly why the difference in torque specs. I went like 77 or 80lbs and even that was higher than what the sheet said.