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Onefast99gsx
04-25-2005, 10:03 AM
I've been on both tuners and dsmtalk and i see about 3 different methods people use for installing ARP head bolt studs. Can someone please share what method you use.

With the ARP moly lube that comes with, they say 65lbs.

In the torqueing sequence, do you just do the first one at 65lbs, then the 2nd, 65, etc... ? Or do you do do them all at like 40lbs, then 50, then 65lbs?

Also the factory manual says something about a torque/ untorque/ retorque. Does that apply for ARP bolts? Or do you just torque them and leave them.

Thanks for your help.

Pimpin Dsmstyle
04-25-2005, 10:16 AM
I've been on both tuners and dsmtalk and i see about 3 different methods people use for installing ARP head bolt studs. Can someone please share what method you use.

With the ARP moly lube that comes with, they say 65lbs.

In the torqueing sequence, do you just do the first one at 65lbs, then the 2nd, 65, etc... ? Or do you do do them all at like 40lbs, then 50, then 65lbs?

Also the factory manual says something about a torque/ untorque/ retorque. Does that apply for ARP bolts? Or do you just torque them and leave them.

Thanks for your help.

the way ive seen it done is go incrementally. There is a specific order in which bolts you do first. I also, am interested in knowing the best way. Probably best off getting mikes advice ;)

Onefast99gsx
04-25-2005, 10:22 AM
I have the factory manual that shows the order, it's middle first then outward in a certain pattern. Will be nice if someone chimes in here that's done it several times and knows the best way.

JET
04-25-2005, 11:20 AM
I got incremental on mine. I go 45, 60, 75. Then I drive it for a while, being nice to it, then retorque to 90. If you are looking for serious HP, then you will want to up the torque a bit. I go with 100 on my silver car, 90 on the daily.

niterydr
04-25-2005, 11:37 AM
Most vehicles are torqued to 60-80-90, sequentially, without a torque plate (aka stock motor with headstuds) and using moly lube (dry holes, dry studs, moly on the tops, washers, nuts).
Drive for 100 miles then retorque.
Torque plated/built motors vary with torque spec, usually 100ft. lbs.

JET
04-25-2005, 12:54 PM
The problem with driving them, then retorquing is that it takes about 10 ft/lbs to break the nut loose. If you torque to 90, drive it and it loosens to 82, then you won't break it loose while retorquing to 90. I was curious about this and tested it out. They all took 8 -10 lbs of force to break loose with lots of ARP lube.

TheBlizzard
04-25-2005, 01:01 PM
When I did mine a few weeks ago, I torqued them to 90lbs starting at 40 and working my way up using the pattern listed in the manual and then after a little bit of driving and a few heat cycles I re-torqued them to 100lbs.

CRAIG

Onefast99gsx
04-25-2005, 01:41 PM
Thanks guys for the great input on this subject. Your help is appreciated. I hate asking alot of questions but it's questions like these that also help to build good information databases.

AJ
04-25-2005, 02:31 PM
http://www.dsmstyle.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3287

Onefast99gsx
04-25-2005, 02:47 PM
Great find! Boy... there seems to be alot of variations out there especially in the torque spec. Everything from 65 to 90/100ft lbs and now locktite. I don't think i will use locktite on them. With that many ft lbs. i don't possibly see how the studs could back themselves out of the hole. The spec sheet that came with said 65ft lbs with moly and 80lbs with 30 weight. I'm gonna gonna go 10 over spec at 75lbs and retorque to about 90 after a few hundred miles of easy driving. More than one person has suggested that.