ARP Head bolt install help needed.

[JET]

Man, you are dead wrong. The studs easily back themselves out. I have had it happen to 2 of my cars and seen it on several others. One done at a professional performance shop. How pissed would you be to blow a head gasket just because you didn't blow out the holes and loc-tite the studs in?

[Goat Blower]

Uhh, you're not supposed to loctite ARP's in.

I've had mine off a few times and always re-use the same ARP's. I first put the ARP's in by hand with the head off using regular oil, then put the head on and torque them all to 80 lb/ft with the pattern in all the manuals(inside to out, in an x pattern) then finally to 110 lb/ft. I've only blown one headgasket years ago, and that was just whatever gasket Rick had in there from when he'd melted a piston or something. Never had a problem since.

[niterydr]

I've only done a 'few' headgaskets, never had one blown on me :).
And you don't locktite the studs in, imho.

[JET]

I've only done a 'few' headgaskets, never had one blown on me :).
And you don't locktite the studs in, imho.Yeah, but were they on upside down? :eek:

Just so others understand, I am talking about loc-titing the bottom end of the ARP's into the block, not the nut on. Someone explain to me how this could be a bad thing?

How many people have had the studs come out with the nut? Before you take a head off next time, try retorquing it. You might be surprised! I noticed this problem a long time ago and I have been retorquing heads before pulling them off to see what happens. I have found quite a few bad ones (stud not at the correct torque anymore). The bad ones almost always have the stud come out with the nut too, instead of staying in the block. That is why I think the stud backs out a little bit. I haven't had it happen since I started loc-titing them in place.

Another note, look at the height of all the ARP's after you put them in. They should be the same height. If any are taller, then there is oil or something trapped below it. That needs to be cleaned out.

[slowbubblecar]

we didn't lock tite ours in also. Never heard of doing that into the block. Makes it easier to transfer when the block is bad ;)

[john]

I heard of it, just never used locktite for it. I will have to check the temp rating of it at work tomorrow. If you used it and they still have backed out, seems to me that the locktite has no affect. I always:

Blow the holes out
retap with thread cutting oil
blow them out again
screw studs all the way to the bottom
use ARP lube and torque to 90 lbs

Never blown one. I have had a stud come out while removing the head again but I always clean the holes out and do the process above again whenever I have the head off no matter if they came out or not.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

I have loctited then in before and did it on my car. I also didn't run them all the way bottomed out on my car, I back them off a little bit. I tried to make sure that mine were all about at the same height. I torqued mine to 90 or 95 ft-lbs and didn't re-torque them. You shouldn't have to re-torque head studs with a Cometic headgasket.

[JET]

Thanks Shane, I knew someone else with a lot of experience would chime in. I haven't had any come out once I loc-tited them in. I said that in my post. Just use the blue loc-tite. They will still come out no problem, but they won't work themselves out. Like Shane said, they should not be tightened into the holes like some people do. ARP says finger tight. I go until I just feel them hit bottom with my fingers.

[john]

It is all a matter of opinion on locktiting them. I think we can all agree that it may help but is not needed.

[JET]

No, that is the whole point. In some cases it IS needed. Why risk it?