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scheides
06-06-2011, 12:52 PM
IIRC JET got so sick of his flywheel bolts coming loose that he actually tac welded them after torquing them. A bit extreme, but I'm sure they'd stay tight after that!
Pushit2.0
06-06-2011, 01:10 PM
What did you torque the bolts to? I torque factory bolts to 135 ft/lbs with a lot of red locktite.

Good luck I to will be putting my stuff back together and trying again at the MAP event.

~John
Goat Blower
06-06-2011, 05:48 PM
Anyone have tricks to make sure the flywheel will stay on?

Safety wire.
Super Bleeder!!
06-06-2011, 06:00 PM
Anyone have tricks to make sure the flywheel will stay on?


This happened to me once.

My solution was to use a spacer plate (is that what they're called?) from an auto dsm as well as longer arp flywheel bolts from an mr2. And also lots of red loctite.

http://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/images/T/xctmpMMCyTd.png
goodhart
06-06-2011, 07:18 PM
Green loctite?
Mark Leasure
06-07-2011, 10:36 AM
What did you torque the bolts to? I torque factory bolts to 135 ft/lbs with a lot of red locktite.

Good luck I to will be putting my stuff back together and trying again at the MAP event.

~John

I saw your transmission carnage, it’s too bad. What sucks is that this is the reality of high powered DSM’s, always one run away from catastrophic failure. The dog box route is crazy expensive, and still problem prone if not operated perfectly. I asked Shep what the cost was about two weeks ago and it was around $7K! He said that he is testing and possibly going to release a 4th gear upgrade for 1G awd’s. I’m keeping track of the number of 4th gear pulls in my car, once it hits around 75 runs through I will be replacing 4th gear proactively.

If I remember correctly I applied 130lb/ft of torque. I spoke to an engineer co worker that deals with vibration and fasteners. He thinks my mistake was that I used oil under the head of the fastener and not locktite. My thought was since we use no washers I wanted to make sure that the torque applied to the fastener was used to compress the flywheel and not fight against friction on the face of the flywheel during the installation process thus not controlling the actual clamping force. Unfortunately that surface should apparently be used as a friction surface after the locktite sets up.

Anybody have a uncut OEM 6-bolt 100mm crank for sale?
Mark Leasure
06-07-2011, 10:37 AM
Green loctite?

Green is good for wicking threads in applications that have fastners preinstalled. I'm going to try red again.
Mark Leasure
06-07-2011, 10:45 AM
Safety wire.

Yea I saw some people wiring the flywheel bolts, I saw a post on NABR talking about. It will definitely stop the flywheel from actually falling off, but unfortunately the bolts can still loosen up. Thanks for the input!
Mark Leasure
06-07-2011, 10:47 AM
IIRC JET got so sick of his flywheel bolts coming loose that he actually tac welded them after torquing them. A bit extreme, but I'm sure they'd stay tight after that!

I don't think I would try this quite yet, too many other possible failure modes created by welding.
Mark Leasure
06-07-2011, 10:49 AM
This happened to me once.

My solution was to use a spacer plate (is that what they're called?) from an auto dsm as well as longer arp flywheel bolts from an mr2. And also lots of red loctite.

http://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/images/T/xctmpMMCyTd.png

So did the spacer go on the bolt side of the flywheel? I wonder if it would fit a QM twin flywheel? At least it would act as a large washer.