Mark's 1G Winter Projects

[bramagedained]

You might be able to pack the pipe with sand before you bend it to stop it from collapsing on higher angle bends.

[evotuner]

Looks awesome!

+1

[turbotalon1g]

Looks great, can we have more pics.

[Fejery4491]

Typically you'll have problems with the tube collapsing/wrinkling from when you get the end of arm travel and have to yank the pin and move it to the next hole to reset the arm. The tube relaxes in the die causing a small air gap and that's where you'll get wrinkling/collapsing/etc. We had the same problem with my buddies JD2 Model 3. Alot of the newer benders have a pin that drops when you get the end of arm travel or "anti spring back" systems to maintain pressure on the tube while you re-pin.
If you're planning on using the bender alot, like mondale said, hydraulic is the way to go. Sadly a system like he's talking about (bending past 90 degrees in a single pass) is extremely expensive if you're not making money off of it. I use a JD2 Model 32 with a Harbor freight air to hydraulic ram and SWAG offroad bracket (which with you machining ability, I'm sure you could just fab something up)
http://www.swagoffroad.com/Tubing-Bender-AirHydraulic-Ram-Mount_p_53.html

I'm not gonna lie and pretend its the quickest or most powerful option, but it certainly does the job, bends about 65 degrees before you have to move the pin. I have the bender mounted on an engine stand since it doesn't have to be bolted down and just roll it wherever I need it and can stand right over the degree wheel operating the ram with one hand and hold a cold beer in the other. If you find a 20% off coupon the ram only costs like $65 too.

Enough of my little ramble though, I just love fabrication tools. I really like how your front end turned out. I've been considering something very similar since my core support it so rusted and nasty, but have to wait until my tax return to buy my tig. I cant wait to see the finished product when its all painted and everything! Keep up the great work!

[PlanoEvo]

Looks Great!

[Mark Leasure]

Thanks for the comments everyone!
Typically you'll have problems with the tube collapsing/wrinkling from when you get the end of arm travel and have to yank the pin and move it to the next hole to reset the arm. The tube relaxes in the die causing a small air gap and that's where you'll get wrinkling/collapsing/etc. We had the same problem with my buddies JD2 Model 3. Alot of the newer benders have a pin that drops when you get the end of arm travel or "anti spring back" systems to maintain pressure on the tube while you re-pin.
If you're planning on using the bender alot, like mondale said, hydraulic is the way to go. Sadly a system like he's talking about (bending past 90 degrees in a single pass) is extremely expensive if you're not making money off of it. I use a JD2 Model 32 with a Harbor freight air to hydraulic ram and SWAG offroad bracket (which with you machining ability, I'm sure you could just fab something up)
http://www.swagoffroad.com/Tubing-Bender-AirHydraulic-Ram-Mount_p_53.html

I'm not gonna lie and pretend its the quickest or most powerful option, but it certainly does the job, bends about 65 degrees before you have to move the pin. I have the bender mounted on an engine stand since it doesn't have to be bolted down and just roll it wherever I need it and can stand right over the degree wheel operating the ram with one hand and hold a cold beer in the other. If you find a 20% off coupon the ram only costs like $65 too.

Enough of my little ramble though, I just love fabrication tools. I really like how your front end turned out. I've been considering something very similar since my core support it so rusted and nasty, but have to wait until my tax return to buy my tig. I cant wait to see the finished product when its all painted and everything! Keep up the great work!

Very good information, you captured the failure mode I’m experiencing perfectly. As soon as I move the die to the next hole to bend anything over 60-65 degrees the tube is not seated perfectly to the die. Then it starts to deform the tube and actually the tube starts to slip out of the front holder. In my front end pics with the tube the first bend is around 65 degrees followed up with a 25 degree bend to get the full 90. I would like to figure out how to get the full 90 without the issue for future projects.
Thanks for the information on the ram and the link to the adaptor site, looks like a great solution!
The bumper and areo parts are at the painter this week and should be done by this weekend. The car gets dropped off for paint this week too!

More pics - I don't think I've posted pics of the monster 6" thick intercooler! The total weight savings ended up at 46 pounds. I added 16 pounds back in, to tube the front, total from the original 62 pound removal weight. Not too bad!

http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp207/Wicked_EE/IMG_20130201_174237.jpg



I also added a tow hook.
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp207/Wicked_EE/IMG_20130203_110931.jpg

[turbotalon1g]

Can you do my car?

[93gtpeater]

So after its painted your putting it back together with the dog box? Or you going to work the 5 spd some more.

[JET]

That is a pretty long torque are you have there to the front motor mount. Any plans to add a brace to it? With the power you are running I would be pretty worried about it bending.

[Speedfreak]

That is a pretty long torque are you have there to the front motor mount. Any plans to add a brace to it? With the power you are running I would be pretty worried about it bending.

I've been concerned about the new setup since you posted pics the other day, but now that you've added a tow hook, I'm more worried. I'd add some triangulation to the design to support the forces it could see.