Which wideband should I use with AEM EMS?

[Shotgun!]

If you are looking at the PLX unit, there was a rep on starquestclub a few years ago selling stuff cheap. PLXGuy, or PLXMan. I'm sure you can find the GB treads.

[v8klla]

Check out the PLX as well, no calibration needed and it uses the same Bosch sensor as the Innovate LC-1.

I personally have the LC-1 wired into my ECU for logging, but I don't have a gauge or display for it. I was tempted to try the PLX but decided just to go with the LC-1 since it was proven to work with the Evo ECU.

http://www.maperformance.com/plx-devices-sm-afr.html

http://www.maperformance.com/innovate-lc-1-cable-standalone-wideband-controller-with-o2-sensor.html

Thanks for the plug sir ;)

[FattyBoomBatty]

If you are looking at the PLX unit, there was a rep on starquestclub a few years ago selling stuff cheap. PLXGuy, or PLXMan. I'm sure you can find the GB treads.

Thanks for the heads up on that, I'll see if I can find anything on him. I'm also looking at the NGK wideband, it looks pretty cool and has a big digital readout.

[Shotgun!]

Thanks for the plug sir ;)

Oh dang, I didn't see this. Buy from MAP, dude!

[v8klla]

Haha thank you sir!

[FattyBoomBatty]

OK, new question. Can I start the car on AEM without an O2 sensor plugged in? I would think it wouldn't be a problem, but I used to be able to start my car just barely, and now it almost catches, but doesn't. Is it totally necessary to have that plugged in? (reason I'm asking is because I'm broke right now and can't afford a wideband, lol).

[Shane@DBPerformance]

AEM will work with no wideband at all. Even if you have one, it usually isn't used until the car has warmed up some. A factory car doesn't use it's O2 sensor right away either, they usually run in open loop for a bit after starting.

If it doesn't want to fire during cranking then play with the Crank Injector Time Table, it might need more fuel with the cold weather. If it fires, starts and then dies, then you might have to play with the Warm Up Enrichment, Start Extra Deacy, Start Extra Time, Idle and other tables.

[FattyBoomBatty]

Thanks for the tips. I will try that stuff. It has no idle control other than my right foot, so I might need to mess with the throttle screw. Last night I added fuel for startup enrichment, but maybe not enough. I don't know, I'll try some more today.

[FattyBoomBatty]

Ok, some may laugh, others may cry, I was glad to find out everything was ok afterward. When I originally wired the GM air temp sensor and coolant temp sensors, I was under the impression that you gave them +5v to one side and the input wire to the AEM read the resistance, or a change in voltage and the sensors used the engine as ground. Called AEM, and they told me I was stupid, then I learned the right way to do it, nothing was fried, and instead of +5v signals on both sensors (I had this going on all along, couldn't figure it out), I finally had normal readings from both of them. It was 54 degrees in the garage last night.

So, I took out a LOT of fuel, increased timing (which I finally was able to measure) and got it to run for a couple seconds. But, here's a couple new questions. First, what causes backfires in the intake manifold, generally, and what are normal things done to alleviate that problem. Second, when it was running, it sounds like a harley, really rough and shakey, like it was missing on a couple cylinders, or one. It hasn't had new plugs/wires in like 4 years (two of them the car sat, but before that I had run leaded gas sometimes, they are pretty fouled. Might that be a cause of that? Also the gas is old.

Lastly, does the AEM let you know if certain components are bad, like perhaps one or two of the injectors aren't firing because of a bad connection or the coilpack is malfunctioning? (this is related to the second question).

[niterydr]

Ok, some may laugh, others may cry, I was glad to find out everything was ok afterward. When I originally wired the GM air temp sensor and coolant temp sensors, I was under the impression that you gave them +5v to one side and the input wire to the AEM read the resistance, or a change in voltage and the sensors used the engine as ground. Called AEM, and they told me I was stupid, then I learned the right way to do it, nothing was fried, and instead of +5v signals on both sensors (I had this going on all along, couldn't figure it out), I finally had normal readings from both of them. It was 54 degrees in the garage last night.

So, I took out a LOT of fuel, increased timing (which I finally was able to measure) and got it to run for a couple seconds. But, here's a couple new questions. First, what causes backfires in the intake manifold, generally, and what are normal things done to alleviate that problem. Second, when it was running, it sounds like a harley, really rough and shakey, like it was missing on a couple cylinders, or one. It hasn't had new plugs/wires in like 4 years (two of them the car sat, but before that I had run leaded gas sometimes, they are pretty fouled. Might that be a cause of that? Also the gas is old.

Lastly, does the AEM let you know if certain components are bad, like perhaps one or two of the injectors aren't firing because of a bad connection or the coilpack is malfunctioning? (this is related to the second question).


You can cut signal to individual injectors and see if that changes how the vehicle runs.