12-05-2003
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#1
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Banana Hammock!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hastings
Drives: Shitbox
Posts: 713
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So it looks like I won't just be pulling the motor after all. I need to do the clutch and get her back on the road as my winter car is slowly dying.
I have looked over the VFAQ on removal of trans and all that needs to be done along, with looking through my Chrysler manual and Haynes manual. My main question is there anything else that may be common sense to do that was not listed on any of the above resources(balancing components, resurfacing flywheel, leaving out or adding any bolts nuts or screws)?
While I am doing that I will also do my cams and was told I would need a timing belt tensioner tool to do them correctly. Now I know I could easily make a one or two time use tool, but I have this thing about using the right tool and was wondering where I could get the correct part from, as I see the number for it on the TBelt VFAQ. Same goes for the clutch, any special tool that I might need?
Last concern is that I have noticed that three of my T-Case to tranny bolts don't really tighten down, they keep spinning until they back themselves out a little bit. I have some loctite on them now, but know I should get it fixed. What do I need to do to the tranny to get this fixed and where could it be done?
Sorry about all the noob questions but I want to do it right and know I can count you guys for the right info.
Thanks in advance.
__________________
1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
320awhp/320lb-ft tq
12.772 @ 108.57
1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4
678/1000
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12-06-2003
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#2
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Is funding Exxon.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Ham Lake
Drives: like a bat outta hell!
Posts: 7,983
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You definately need to get the flywheel resurfaced. There is usually a pretty quick turn around on them. That "one or two" time use tool had made it through 5 uses for me and still looks fine. It is cheap and easy. If not the real tool isn't that expensive either.
The bad one is the T-case bolts. That is not good. While you have the tranny out, check down in the holes to see if there are any good threads left at the bottom that the current bolts didn't reach. If there are more than 3, I would just get some longer bolts and use those with washers on the top to get the perfect length. If there aren't any you are going to have to try to find a machine shop to heli-coil them. It won't be real cheap, but yes you do need them. 4 out of 5 might pass, but definately not 2 good ones out of 5!
__________________
Is burning corn and stayin' warm!
My motorcycle is stock and reliable, my Talon is neither!
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12-06-2003
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#3
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At-Least-It's-White-Again
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Quote:
Originally posted by JET@Dec 6 2003, 01:04 AM
You definately need to get the flywheel resurfaced. There is usually a pretty quick turn around on them. That "one or two" time use tool had made it through 5 uses for me and still looks fine. It is cheap and easy. If not the real tool isn't that expensive either.
The bad one is the T-case bolts. That is not good. While you have the tranny out, check down in the holes to see if there are any good threads left at the bottom that the current bolts didn't reach. If there are more than 3, I would just get some longer bolts and use those with washers on the top to get the perfect length. If there aren't any you are going to have to try to find a machine shop to heli-coil them. It won't be real cheap, but yes you do need them. 4 out of 5 might pass, but definately not 2 good ones out of 5!
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yea, the t case to tranny holes are obviously stripped. I've done it before too many times. Um... You can try rethreading them w/ whatever tool you use to do that... i did and then lock titied it. now it works fine. 4 outta 5 w/o one of the bottom ones seems to do good, even for racing.  Other than that, everything else is like VFAQ says, Just do it the suspension way though, you don't have to pull the axles out too, btw that was my mistake first time I did my tranny though I dont know if VFAQ says to do so.
__________________
'04 Honda Ricer: stock
Done fuckin' with cars but I will snap some photos of yours for now! =)
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12-06-2003
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#4
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Big Turbo Monster
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hopkins
Drives: GTS and E55
Posts: 1,105
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how about tapping the hole to the next available size? Seems easier than a helicoil. I have heard those aren't that difficult either as long as you know what you are doing.
__________________
Life's tough.... it's even tougher if you're stupid.
7/25/09
Motorcycle cop pulls up next to me on UNI and says "Want to race?"
Me- "I don't think you would stand a chance."
Cop says "probably not" and drives off.
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12-07-2003
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#5
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Banana Hammock!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hastings
Drives: Shitbox
Posts: 713
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Quote:
That "one or two" time use tool had made it through 5 uses for me and still looks fine. It is cheap and easy. If not the real tool isn't that expensive either.
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Where would one of those tools be available?
Quote:
You definately need to get the flywheel resurfaced. There is usually a pretty quick turn around on them.
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Anywhere you would recommend?
__________________
1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
320awhp/320lb-ft tq
12.772 @ 108.57
1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4
678/1000
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12-07-2003
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#6
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Is funding Exxon.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Ham Lake
Drives: like a bat outta hell!
Posts: 7,983
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You can make that tool. Just buy the correct die and use it to make threads all the way down on the one battery hold down. It is listed in the VFAQ for a TB change I think.
__________________
Is burning corn and stayin' warm!
My motorcycle is stock and reliable, my Talon is neither!
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01-13-2005
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#7
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Hates Everything
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Las Vegas
Drives: Neon
Posts: 445
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Re: Installing Clutch
All Heli-Coiling involves is drilling to proper size, tapping, screwing heli-coil in, and breaking off the thing at the end of the heli-coil that allows you to screw it in. I dont know why people say it is hard to do. Buy the kit and everything you need but the drill bit is included.
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01-13-2005
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#8
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Coon Rapids
Drives: 07' Z06, 16' Beta 300RR
Posts: 804
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Re: Installing Clutch
You can take the flywheel to anywhere like bumper to bumper or checker or napa, just call there and make sure they have the equipment to resuface stuff.
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01-13-2005
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#9
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Re: Installing Clutch
And check on turn around time. Also I would recommend finding out what step the FW needs, it will depend on the clutch. Often the machine shop doesn't know so they just take equal amounts off each surface. Around .612 is typical. You may also want to look at the clutch fork and pivot ball. Replace or shim depending on the clutch/your budget. What clutch will you be using?
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01-13-2005
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#10
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Banana Hammock!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hastings
Drives: Shitbox
Posts: 713
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Re: Installing Clutch
All I have to say is, holy old thread.
__________________
1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
320awhp/320lb-ft tq
12.772 @ 108.57
1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4
678/1000
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01-13-2005
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#11
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Re: Installing Clutch
Yea what the heck? I hate when old threads are brought up becuase someone has more "knowledge" to contribute when the topic is over, or outdated.
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01-13-2005
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#12
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Re: Installing Clutch
so what's up? Did you just end up fixing the dieing winter beater?
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01-14-2005
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#13
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Banana Hammock!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hastings
Drives: Shitbox
Posts: 713
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Re: Installing Clutch
Well the winter beater held out, 1994 Plymouth Voyager with 336k miles. But the Talon was down from the time I started this thread until about late July. Then I laid down 320hp on my birthday, June 16th, and had some summer fun. Although it all came to a screeching halt when you embarassed me by running the exact same time with less money and mods...  Since about early October it has been down due to me not wanting to drive it during the salty months and the fact that it doesn't hold any oil anymore.
__________________
1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
320awhp/320lb-ft tq
12.772 @ 108.57
1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4
678/1000
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