Runing Rough Upon Startup, Kills Randomly...

[john]

When I start my car in the morning and drive it around, it seems to run really rough. It stutters (boggs down) when releasing the clutch and lacks power until any gas is applied. After about 10 minutes of driving the problems are gone. I thought it was due to my bov but that would always happen then.

Today on the way to school, the CEL poped and the car started to rev up and down quickly. Before I could pull over it turned itself off. When the cel came on, my knock gauge, turbo timer, and other accessories started cutting out as the rpm jumped erratically. A few blocks down, the same thing happened. It just goes away. The car shakes as if I am a dumbass who is learning how to drive a stick in traffic. I am not even touching the clutch. I remain on the gas. I am going to check the MAS connector and see if it is coming loose or something. Any other ideas?

Also, last night my car did not want to shut off. The turbo timer finished its countdown but did not turn the car off. I had to kill the car to shut it off. That problem only happened once also.

[john]

BTW, the car is a 92 talon turbo, 2g mas, bigger injectors, etc.

[LightningGSX]

What was the CEL code? How's your alternator and battery/terminals? Low voltage and ground issues can lead to all sorts of weird problems.

[john]

From what I know they are all fine. They were clean when I relocated the battery and the battery has been in a battery box since. The battery is grounded to the frame behind the back pass wheel. I will check the voltage tomorrow via the turbo timer but I assume the alternator is fine.

At school, I uncliped the MAS plug and plugged it back in. I haven't had the CEL problem though. I wasn't able to log it as I didn't have my laptop. It didn't store the codes anyhow. The CEL would go on and off quickly. I will see if I continue to have the problem. For some reason the car didn't like to idle either when I got home from school and killed a couple times after I stopped. Could be the vented bov though.

[SuperSleeper]

Try recirculating if you have the appropriate parts, or borrow them from someone else. That most definitely will cure some issues.

However, the turbo timer issue leads me to believe you're having some sort of electrical ignition problems as well.. Good luck man!

[john]

Yeah, I would rather recirculate but with how my ic piping is right now I cannot. I would either have to vent the 1g bov or the blitz. I am using the blitz. It is wierd how the turbo timer happened once along with the CEL problem. The turbo timer reads ~13.86 volts running through my electrical system at idle and while driving.

[SuperSleeper]

Originally posted by 92tsiawd84@Apr 29 2004, 09:24 AM
The turbo timer reads ~13.86 volts running through my electrical system at idle and while driving.

Which sounds about right...

When I tested out venting on my Laser, it would die at every stop. Some cars respond a little more dynamically than others with a vented BOV. Considering that fact, I'm 95% sure recirculation should clear up your problems.

[john]

Update:

I am not worried about the turbo timer problem but it has happened once again. I am now worried about more important problems.

1. When I step on the gas, it takes 2 seconds before the datalogger sees any o2 value other than .02.
2. Sometimes when I step on the gas, the CEL light comes on and it seems as if the car looses all power (electronics wise) for a second (radio, radar detector, etc turn off).
3. Now when I let off the gas at WOT it pops a CEL while backfiring and loosing power like above.
4. Sometimes going over big bumps pops the CEL and turns the car off for a second.

I have my battery relocated in the trunk and it grounded on the frame near the back pass wheel. Is there a better place to ground? I think it has something to do with the ground placement or something (loose wire). I tightened the ground wire so it was very snug on the frame. My guess is that the weight shifting to the rear could be moving a wire somehow as with going over a big bump.

Fuel mods are 780cc injectors (w/ ecu compensation), 255 at ~36 psi, AFPR, SAFC at 0. My fuel trims are low: 140, middle: 118, High: 130. Yeah, I will have to tune them back to 100%. I do not know anything that could cause the lag in my o2 sensor (Mitsu). It has ~500 miles, on it pump gas only

[Jacek]

I was thinking, when I threw on my 2g maf i forgot to put on a hose that goes into the side of the intake pipe and my car ran like ass and was really lean because of it but i could get it to idle with the afc but it was at +45%. Its just a though if you didnt forget anything also if your venting the 1g bov, did you try sticking your hand up against the bov and plugging up the hole to see if that helped?

From everything I read it sounds like your power transister. Check it with ohm meter. Check to see if you have spark after car stalls. Undo all wires, stick long screw driver into plug to touch metal piece on wire and hold onto rubber end of screw driver and keep the metal part of screw driver 1/4 of inch or 1/8 from manifold and have someone turn car igntion key on. Should see healthy spark between metal part of screw driver and manifold. No spark then it is ignition. If bad you could of adversly effected coil pack. I don't think it is burnt out because car has been running. Or better yet it sounds like it is coming loose, the power transister. If it is loose connection car still may work, but if car stalling ever so often like going over bump or under boost the power transister is supposed to work like amplifier it will come loose a little, enough to cause all of this. Really weak plastic connector. Use thumb and big finger and press for first time or after car stalls. If it it goes down a little, you had bad connection. I had to make a modified connection for my power transister because it would come lose on road. Reason why is because harness was rubbing against it. Hope this is it. If not, sorry. I would check fuses and other electrical possibilities. Wish the best for ya. I had to be towed twice until I figured this out. I learn the expensive way.

[john]

You are talking about the triangular plug on the back of the head right? I will check it but I am not sure it would do it. The car kills and turns right back on right away as I am still driving. I haven't touched the plug for a few months (probly 8 as the car sat all winter). Thanks for the advice. I will let you know how it goes. I have a few other leads also.