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Faulty Alternator or Thermo?
First off, I have the "old school" Technomotive Stage 3 ECU Chip. I can choose to have a battery gauge, octane, spark, Injector Duty Cycle, etc on my boost gauge. As of now, I have the Battery Gauge (volt) on. On the battery gauge, having five to six bars (on the stock boost gauge) means that my battery voltage is running at it's best...having 3 or 4 bars is on the border line of "battery/alty suffering" or something is wrong.
Well, just about 2 days ago my alternator/thermo gauge has been goin up and down on me.
Here's the deal(while driving on highway); when ever my "volt" gauge shows me that it's full, the thermo gauge is on the first line near the "H" and sometimes the thermo needle will past the first line near the "H" just a bit but NEVER reaches the orange.
Than when my "volt" gauge is at about 10-12volts (3-4 bars), the thermo goes back to normal. It's back and forth with the gauges. Whenever I have a full gauge, the thermo needle jumps straight to the first line near "H". And than whenever ever I have the 3-4 bars, the thermo needle is dead in the middle. I'll do an alty test later tonight and check the battery also. (I'm in class right now). Help is much appreciated! thanks!
Things I've noticed:
- I've checked the coolant and I've lost none since I fixed the bolts on the turbo.
- Alty belt is making "screeching" noise when I start it up.
- Battery seems to have spilled small amounts of it's liquid on top of itself.
^^^that was about 2 days ago. Now it's just staying at 3 bars constantly. My lights are a little dim. I'm assuming it's my battery because it let some juice out. The screeching from the Alty belt has stopped. Funny thing is that now the car is running fine with only 3 bars instead of the usual 5-6 bars where it should be at. Galant VR4's came with 90amp alternators...as of now I'm using an Auto 1g 75amp alty...
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