311evo's ev-oh - Page 6

**Halon** · 03-22-2011

I personally would stick with something stock framed if someone makes one that is fairly reliable. Keeps things simple, and I like simple.

311evo · 03-22-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by dzuest

maybe i missed it but, what was the reason behind them not doing a warranty on the Black???

It's 1 month past their warranty.

The stock frames are remotely reliable short of some of the FP turbo's. The only problem is that I don't want to go smaller then the black, so my only options are the FP black or universal set up.

**dzuest** · 03-22-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by 311evo

Now that my shit blew up and I'm unhappy with FP, this thread can get a little debate action going.

The black is blown, and I will have to pay FP to rebuild it. I will then likely sell it then, or sell it now "as-is" for a much cheaper price.

Option 1: Get a stock turbo, wait for black to get back, then use the black and sell the stocker.
Cost: Rebuild (unknown, I'm guessing at least a couple hundred)
OEM IX turbo - $400

option 2: 6262 set up. (at least temporarily, if I decide on the HTA86 in the future it should all bolt up)
Cost: around 2.5k total. (Manifold/WG/Dump - $1,200, turbo $800, downpipe modifications-$? oil/water lines?)

Option 3: HTA86 set up
Cost: around 3.5k total (Manifold/WG/Dump - $1,200, turbo $1,600, Downpipe modifications-$? oil/water lines?)

Let me know your thoughts and opinions on the different turbo's and options you would look into.

Ran across this the other night when looking on evom...
http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-dyn...te-6765-a.html

D'OH sorry i just noticed that's a HTA86 compared to a 6765 and not a 6262. My bad.

Oh well something to look at anyway.

**dzuest** · 03-22-2011

Double post... god i suck at life tonight...

311evo · 03-22-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by dzuest

D'OH sorry i just noticed that's a HTA86 compared to a 6765 and not a 6262. My bad.

Oh well something to look at anyway.

Yes sir! saw that chart earlier, 6765 I do not want and this chart kind of shows why.

**dzuest** · 03-22-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by 311evo

Yes sir! saw that chart earlier, 6765 I do not want and this chart kind of shows why.

Yeah i thought i had something there. LOL
At least it gives some numbers for the HTA86 i guess.

**Murlo26** · 03-22-2011

Why not the HTA3582 as we were shoutboxing about it originally? The HTA82 would have some similar spool to a black, probably a few hundred rpms like you said you'd be ok with and would make more power over the black. Seems logical for an initial upgrade from the black.

Then if you truly get bored you could go HTA86 later.

311evo · 03-22-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Murlo26

Why not the HTA3582 as we were shoutboxing about it originally? The HTA82 would have some similar spool to a black, probably a few hundred rpms like you said you'd be ok with and would make more power over the black. Seems logical for an initial upgrade from the black.

Then if you truly get bored you could go HTA86 later.

But at the same time I've seen a lot of graphs where the 86 spools almost the exact same as the 82, so with that I would likely just go for the big one.

The more I think about it the more I would like to give the black another chance. But I'm still not 100%, it's going to rely heavily on FP's month-out-of-warranty price for a rebuild and their turn around time.

TalonFiero · 03-22-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by 311evo

But at the same time I've seen a lot of graphs where the 86 spools almost the exact same as the 82, so with that I would likely just go for the big one.

The more I think about it the more I would like to give the black another chance. But I'm still not 100%, it's going to rely heavily on FP's month-out-of-warranty price for a rebuild and their turn around time.

It all depends on what is damaged and needs replacing but realistically I think its ~$600 and about two weeks to fix.

The one thing I will always be careful about with the RED and BLACK FP turbos is that I run them to the edge so I will be vigilant to check for boost leaks. I do not want to overrun the turbo at these boost levels and shaft speeds.

**Murlo26** · 03-22-2011

I think its wise to give the black one more chance...the setup works well imo.

But I'd understand if you wanted to go t3.

T3 will be even harder to have fun around town with though...I know with my black its tough to find a good spot to have fun now because its gotten to a point where its just too fast almost. Stock turbo e85 you could rip up and down everywhere.

Matt D. · 03-23-2011

Keep in mind that you are talking about turning your car into less of a street car and more of a track car. This is a big step you're considering. My measly 300whp Evo is scary on an autocross course (ask brown man), and I have a hard time imagining actually road racing something faster than my 116whp 1985 MR2 (even though I hope I eventually do). Make sure you take everything into perspective before making your decision.

311evo · 03-23-2011

I have been taking all of that into account, after all I did decide to have the motor built instead of getting a stock used longblock for a lot less money.

I would like to give the black one more chance, if it fails again in 6 months then I'll fully commit to the switch. I'm not ruling it out right now though either.

311evo · 03-23-2011

Sounds like FP will be getting me the turbo back before the cruise, and along with that cutting me a break on some of the rebuild assuming my wheels are fine.

**Murlo26** · 03-23-2011

sweet man! Glad to hear FP is dealing a bit and you will be primed and ready for the cruise. Could've been a lot worse.

**goodhart** · 03-23-2011

Great news!

311evo · 04-15-2011

Turbo's back in, FP didn't charge me a dime even though they rebuilt it and put on an updated/clipped exhaust wheel!

It pulls pretty good now, I can't wait to get on my new intake mani and throttle body, along with the new grimmspeed EBCS I picked up. And of course a Shane tune.

One thing that's been a little weird again is my clutch. It happened before where it would feel light, be very inconsistent, and when I start to push the pedal down it feels like it's shaking.

Also, I got locked out of a gear and hit redline. The clutch pedal stuck to the floor for a few seconds until I pulled it back with my foot. After that it was still working normally.

(I've already bled the clutch multiple times.)

Matt D. · 04-15-2011

Do you have a clutch fork stopper, and is it properly adjusted?

**Kracka** · 04-15-2011

Sounds very similar to what happened when my TOB dislodged from the PP ring. Clutch fork stopper would be a good idea IMO.

311evo · 04-15-2011

It is adjusted properly, but no I do not have a stopper.

It did this before though too, and then it seemed to kind of.... fix itself.

**Kracka** · 04-15-2011

Any extra wavy spring washers added to the TOB clip or just the standard two?