91 Galant VR4 - Page 6

Pushit2.0 · 11-25-2009

A little more done on the front end. I have added gussets to the box tubing, bars from the upper frame rail to the lower cross over, which ties into the rear motor mount/sub frame, and the front lower cross over bar. In the next few days I will do the strut tower mounts and fab up the new driver, passenger and front lower motor mounts.

~John

Super Bleeder!! · 11-25-2009

Insane! I like it

Pushit2.0 · 11-26-2009

I made some head way again tonight. Nothing is finish welded yet but that time is coming soon. The suspension height right now would give me about a 2" fender gap up front. I will be adding more material/bracing to the strut mount, that is mostly done to see tire clearance etc. Now that most of the front end is mocked up time for motor mounts then finish weld, clean, and paint.

~John

Constant_Project21 · 11-26-2009

Looks great!!! It's nice to see steady progress.

turbotalon1g · 11-26-2009

That is sick. I am liking the way you are spending this winter.

Pushit2.0 · 11-29-2009

So far so good, this is not taking as long as I thought. I will just have to find other things to do over the winter. The motor mounts are done, minus mounting the driver side to the frame rail, this will be a pipe straight up with 2 spots for bolts to go. I did go to the stock power steering bracket holes in the front of the block. This will help distribute the load and I hope not to crack the block from OMG HP's. I also added a 22" gusset bar on each of the upper frame rail bar to roll cage. This made the hole front end a lot stiffer. Now I just need the lower cross member pieces and start the finish welding.

There will be more bracing and gussets as needed but another big step forward this weekend. Thanks for looking.

~John

Matt D. · 11-29-2009

Looking good, keep it up!

95talonracer · 11-29-2009

Wow thats really cool! I cant believe you got that big portion of the front end done already. Keep up the great work.

MrScary · 11-29-2009

Wow this is an amazing project you have. Keep it coming!

**scheides** · 11-29-2009

Holy balls, I didn't know you had this planned! Keep chugging, spring will be here before you know it!

**asshanson** · 11-29-2009

Wow this is coming along quick, nice job. Is it pretty tough to get the motor in or out? It seems like the driver side mount would make it impossible to do tbelt work or even get the motor in.

Pushit2.0 · 11-29-2009

The pipe will be welded to the frame, and there will be bolts that hold the mount to the top of the pipe. So if I need to pull the motor I will take out 2 bolts. If I need to do timing belt work I will need to pull the 3 bolts on the front of the block and the two bolts into the mount on the block and then the 2 into the frame mount. It should be no harder to work on then with the stock mount in place. Also I made different albums for my pics so if you quoted a pic from before this post and would like it to show up you need to edit the post and in the link for the pic were it says "500" change that to "612".

~John

turbotalon1g · 11-30-2009

I don't like that ugly snake pipe to the front of the block.
But it looks like its coming together.
Whats the new setup gonna be for OMGz HP?
mid 700s on 35R these days.

Pushit2.0 · 11-30-2009

I do not have a billet series turbo or an Evo head, so the numbers may not be that high. I was thinking on the engine dyno with nitrous some where around 1000 at the crank would be nice, but I will not know until its up and running then tuned.

~John

**goodhart** · 11-30-2009

So when is the engine dyno?

Pushit2.0 · 11-30-2009

I am bringing the motor up to work the middle of this week. I have a few things that need to be done before the engine will be ready for tuning. I need to make a bell housing to bolt it onto the engine dyno, motor mounts, coolant hoses, wiring harness to run the engine, exhaust hookup, and a few other things I am sure. They do have a live video feed of the dyno cell so when the time comes I will let you know.

~John

Kevin 1G Drummer · 11-30-2009

I noticed you're running the wastegates on only the #1 and 2 runners. Any reason for this? Seems like it might cause a pressure imbalance to me, especially being so close to the head.

Pushit2.0 · 11-30-2009

This is a fully divided exhaust manifold, and the exhaust housing is divided threw the scroll also. So the #1 and #4 exhaust runners go to one side of the scroll and the #2 and #3 exhaust runners go to the other side of the scroll. I do not plan to waist a lot of exhaust gasses so the dual gates is only to keep the manifold divided sense the runner length is equal for the #1 and #4 then #2 and #3 are equal length but they are a little longer then the #1 and #4 runners. I am not to worried they are so close to the head, but if its an issue I will move them.
For drag racing you could not use a exhaust waist gate at all and run a charge pipe by pass valve to control boost, this is what Brent Rau does but he runs 86psi.

~John

Kevin 1G Drummer · 12-01-2009

I noticed that it's fully dived, thus the need for 2 wastegates. I just thought it was odd that you would put them on individual runners, and so close to the head rather than at the collectors like the way you did the manifold that Mark has.

FattyBoomBatty · 12-01-2009

I think it's pretty sweet, plus they'll be right in front for all to see.