beaterX project thread

[evotuner]

Scheides nice meeting your yesterday and your car is pretty sick too!! keep her running buddy!! and keep us posted as well

[Murlo26]

Scheides, you going to check our your bearings at all in the next 5-10k miles?

Or just rock this bitch until it has issues?

[scheides]

Originally Posted by Murlo26

Scheides, you going to check our your bearings at all in the next 5-10k miles?

Or just rock this bitch until it has issues?

You trying to jinx me or something? :P

No reason to crack the motor open, it runs good, compression is good. I will leave it well alone and continue to monitor oil consumption/compression.

[Murlo26]

Originally Posted by scheides

You trying to jinx me or something? :P

No reason to crack the motor open, it runs good, compression is good. I will leave it well alone and continue to monitor oil consumption/compression.

LOL, nah, not at all. I was just thinking after reading, that 21k is a good amount of miles on a built motor, not many X guys have made it that far yet.

Even on 4g63 motors people seem to think built motors are only good for 40-50k miles and then they usually say bearing swaps are a good idea. I am guessing though that is because people assume people beat the shit out of built motors.

Was just curious what your plans were so if I by some chance in hell make it that far I have an idea of what to do.

[Halon]

Scheides, what is your fuel setup? Just curious because it seems like I hear of other people always having issues with theirs, but not you.

[Kracka]

His is nice, simple and effective...no silly surgetanks, dual-pump hangars, etc.

[scheides]

I have been trying to KISS.

The car has a standard Walbro 400 pump (non-e85) in the tank powered by a 30A BAP that's activated at ~3psi (whatever the default hobbs switch is in that kit). The return line siphon is drilled out to 2.8mm to help reduce base fuel pressure. That feeds stock lines up to the fuel rail, where I have a Boomba fuel rail (with a bent stock FPR) feeding FIC 1680cc injectors. On this setup I have base fuel pressure under 50psi and it's enough on real e85 to support 32psi across the board. The car idles, runs, and drives nearly perfect nearly all the time.

I've had my fair share of issues...the FIC's I needed revised spacers and wiring adapters, my DW300 didn't do much more than a W255 would have, and I had problems getting my stock FPR to fit on the boomba fuel rail the way I wanted it to (all documented earlier in this thread if you ever feel like going waaay back).

Also, at 1/3 tank or less WOT is risky--I can do a 2nd OR 3rd OR 4th gear pull, but anything like a 2-3-4 results in massive fuel starvation. On the cruise I took a risk and did hit 14:1 AFR at 8000rpm with four people in the car after a 2-3-4-5 pull. Others want to fix it (and I do too) but otherwise I just keep the tank above 1/2 tank if I really want to rip on it more than a full gear pull. The cup/basket that sits around the fuel pump simply runs empty too quickly...it's stupid but it is what it is. Making a larger (baffled) basket or moving to a surge tank is the way to go if you track the car or absolutely want to run WOT while it's on E but frankly I have no need so I don't bother or worry about it

I've proven now that this setup is enough for me so I don't plan on changing it. If I do anything, it'll be to swap in a E85 version of the W400 but then my base fuel pressure may suffer. I'd consider ditching the BAP and installing a larger feed line as that seems to be working for murlo...I almost did it last summer but this setup has proven to be enough so I'm happy.

[Murlo26]

Originally Posted by Kracka

His is nice, simple and effective...no silly surgetanks, dual-pump hangars, etc.

Originally Posted by scheides

I have been trying to KISS.

The car has a standard Walbro 400 pump (non-e85) in the tank powered by a 30A BAP that's activated at ~3psi (whatever the default hobbs switch is in that kit). The return line siphon is drilled out to 2.8mm to help reduce base fuel pressure. That feeds stock lines up to the fuel rail, where I have a Boomba fuel rail (with a bent stock FPR) feeding FIC 1680cc injectors. On this setup I have base fuel pressure under 50psi and it's enough on real e85 to support 32psi across the board. The car idles, runs, and drives nearly perfect nearly all the time.

I've had my fair share of issues...the FIC's I needed revised spacers and wiring adapters, my DW300 didn't do much more than a W255 would have, and I had problems getting my stock FPR to fit on the boomba fuel rail the way I wanted it to (all documented earlier in this thread if you ever feel like going waaay back).

Also, at 1/3 tank or less WOT is risky--I can do a 2nd OR 3rd OR 4th gear pull, but anything like a 2-3-4 results in massive fuel starvation. On the cruise I took a risk and did hit 14:1 AFR at 8000rpm with four people in the car after a 2-3-4-5 pull. Others want to fix it (and I do too) but otherwise I just keep the tank above 1/2 tank if I really want to rip on it more than a full gear pull. The cup/basket that sits around the fuel pump simply runs empty too quickly...it's stupid but it is what it is. Making a larger (baffled) basket or moving to a surge tank is the way to go if you track the car or absolutely want to run WOT while it's on E but frankly I have no need so I don't bother or worry about it

I've proven now that this setup is enough for me so I don't plan on changing it. If I do anything, it'll be to swap in a E85 version of the W400 but then my base fuel pressure may suffer. I'd consider ditching the BAP and installing a larger feed line as that seems to be working for murlo...I almost did it last summer but this setup has proven to be enough so I'm happy.

His setup is effective, but still suffers the same thing mine does. Which is at lower fuel levels the basket empties as its no longer submersed in the fuel and relies purely on the pick from in tank.

I think you make it way too simple (kracka). The only true perfect setups I have seen are surge tank setups and fuel cell setups. I am holding off as mine works great for my power as long as I keep it ~1/3 and up like Scheides said.

But a bunch of the crap is just inherit to the X design. I will say my double pumper was much more complicated and didn't work nearly as well.

I am glad Scheides' setup is working well though and it works well enough because he did keep it as simple as he could.

still not straight forward for us E85 users making bigger power.

[Kracka]

True true, I forgot about a lot of those little "extras" Scheides has into it...makes me content with my power level since my fuel setup is nothing more than a pump + injectors.

[scheides]

I just noticed some of the pics weren't working...still a few missing after my server crashed this summer. I got a few re-added but I'm gonna have to go back and make sure everything is there....lmk if you find a post that's missing pics.

[scheides]

oooh happy day! Car has been aweful noisy on cold starts and since the spark plug incident it began consuming oil. So today I decided to yank the valve cover off quicklike and measure the valve-tappet-to-cam clearances. Spec is .008" intake and .012" exhaust, both +/- .001.

I could not even get a .005" inbetween most tappets and the cam, all except one actually. Yippee skippee. The car still runs dandy and made 599whp at map's fall dyno day but honestly I'm worried about it. It seems as though there's an issue either with the valves or the valve seats.

Either way I will be seeking second opinions and looking into options but likely I'll be pre-scheduling some machine-shop time, praying to the valve tappet gods (if they don't line up I'll have to order a bunch from mitsu...$20 each x 16 :P ), and yanking the head. If I do I might downgrade to some beehive springs (weren't available when I first built it) and I can't help but wonder about swapping in a set of S2's....decisions decisions.

If I do pull it off I might swap out my (edit, wtf I guess I just stopped typing :P)

[Halon]

Originally Posted by scheides

If I do pull it off I might swap out my

Sick!

[Super Bleeder!!]

Originally Posted by Halon

Sick!

+1

[turbotalon1g]

Originally Posted by scheides

I just noticed some of the pics weren't working...still a few missing after my server crashed this summer. I got a few re-added but I'm gonna have to go back and make sure everything is there....lmk if you find a post that's missing pics.

I'm missing a bunch of pics in my thread. Not sure if its here or FB, because I relinked them via fb and they work.

Originally Posted by Halon

Sick!

Originally Posted by Super Bleeder!!

+1

WTF?

[scheides]

Originally Posted by Halon

Sick!

Originally Posted by Super Bleeder!!

+1

Heh, hit submit and walked away without reading what I wrote, sorry :P

Any constructive ideas?

[Super Bleeder!!]

I'm impressed you measured the clearance at all! Do evoX even use HLAs? Can you reshim it back to spec?

[scheides]

They use buckets or tappets. If tollerences were loose yea I could put in thicker tappets but they went the other way. I could try thinner tappets but I have no real way of measuring how much thinner I'd need to go w/o disassembling and re-assembling who knows how many times...I'm more concerned with how it got this way. I checked tollerences at 1000 2000 5000 and 10000 miles, all we're fine. Now it's at 21k and here we are. ComPression was fine last time I checked it (recently).

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

Shim/tappet valves are a bitch. When I put the motor for my bike back together I think I had each of the 4 cams in and back out probably 4 or 5 times to get the clearances right (mostly cuz my math skills are horseshit).

Were these new valves? My understanding is that if anything is going happen to the valve clearance, it'll get tighter, since the valve essentially stretches out a little. My suggestion is to just go down a shim size at a time till it meets tolerances. It's a bitch, but it's the easiest way to get the tolerances right. I assume you have an assortment of shims?

[Super Bleeder!!]

Originally Posted by Kevin 1G Drummer

Shim/tappet valves are a bitch. When I put the motor for my bike back together I think I had each of the 4 cams in and back out probably 4 or 5 times to get the clearances right (mostly cuz my math skills are horseshit).

Were these new valves? My understanding is that if anything is going happen to the valve clearance, it'll get tighter, since the valve essentially stretches out a little. Exactly how much tighter than the minimum tolerance are they?

I dont think its the valve stretching so much as the valve seat being compressed?

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

Originally Posted by Super Bleeder!!

I dont think its the valve stretching so much as the valve seat being compressed?

Could go either way I guess.