Make slowboy not so slow - Page 5

Swifty1638 · 12-17-2007

adjsut the clutch, find some real clamps, replace the starter (sounds like a clutch issue) and re-adjust the throttle cable, where it attaches to the intake manifold, so all the slack is out of the cable, but yet not pulling on the cable. You'll be set.

-A. Swift

**Kracka** · 12-17-2007

Congrats, good to hear!

FattyBoomBatty · 12-17-2007

I don't know about dsms' throttle cable, but you should leave the adjustment for the cable-jacket loose, let the car warm up then tighten it down with a little slack in the cable itself. Maybe when the car warms up, it's tightening up the cable enough to let the TB hang open a bit. just a suggestion.

And working out the bugs after doing an engine swap is the best part, because the hard work is over!

A//// Guy · 12-17-2007

Yea we did that with the cable. I think the throttle body is sticky and wont close all the way. Also the FIAV might be crap, so I would try another throttle body and see if that fixes the high and bouncing idle.

We made lots of progress on the car, and Im glad it started... Ive never heard a race motor before but should they sound any different than a stock motor? It seems to be more buzzy and mechanical sounding. Its hard to explain, it just doesnt sound as smooth as it should.

Best times were definetly at the bars and not in the garage. haha

**JET** · 12-17-2007

I had the same issue with the throttle cable on the 6 bolt swap I just did. They must get positioned slightly different and I had to move the throttle cable in slightly at the cruise control unit. I was out of adjustment at the cable mount on the intake manifold. It just barely wouldn't close all the way.

FattyBoomBatty · 12-17-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by M/// Guy

Yea we did that with the cable. I think the throttle body is sticky and wont close all the way. Also the FIAV might be crap, so I would try another throttle body and see if that fixes the high and bouncing idle.

We made lots of progress on the car, and Im glad it started... Ive never heard a race motor before but should they sound any different than a stock motor? It seems to be more buzzy and mechanical sounding. Its hard to explain, it just doesnt sound as smooth as it should.

Best times were definetly at the bars and not in the garage. haha

Solid lifters as opposed to hydraulic? I know nothing about 4g63 heads.

A//// Guy · 12-17-2007

He reused his 2g lifters, I think the head only has a massive port and angle job along with oversized valves and diff springs. The block is built too though.

**asshanson** · 12-17-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by JET

I had the same issue with the throttle cable on the 6 bolt swap I just did. They must get positioned slightly different and I had to move the throttle cable in slightly at the cruise control unit. I was out of adjustment at the cable mount on the intake manifold. It just barely wouldn't close all the way.

I have plenty of adjustment on the intake mani bracket, maybe 1/2" either way right now. At first I had it too tight so it was stuck open at 1 or 2%, then we loosen it up and it goes back to .1%, I'll try loosening it a tiny bit more and use more pb blaster on the springy thing that was sticky before.

As for replacing the starter, I'm pretty sure it's not bad. It's the same one that's always been on my car and it never did that once ever, so I think there's something wrong with the way I put it back on maybe.

I think the throttle body may be bad as well. My friend gave it to me for free, but it was really dirty when I got it, plus I think it was too close to something when he was porting, because there were little metal shavings on it before I cleaned it up. Maybe I'll get a new one from TKR since he has a few for sale if nothing else fixed the idling issue.

Swifty1638 · 12-17-2007

make sure its on there straight, or that you used 2 bolts to hold the starter on..

-A. Swift

**scheides** · 12-17-2007

Good to hear man!

Like JET said, play with the adjustment of the cable as it mounts to the IM. I remember on my car having to do something goofy as well, but nothing crazy. Also if the car has cruise control, play with extra mess of throttle cables that mount just behind the TB elbow, mine got schmucked when the 6-bolt was going in and it caused similar issues to what you are describing.

**asshanson** · 12-17-2007

Just started it up again after going to lunch, so the car was basically warm from the trip there. Anyway, it started right up and idled at 850rpm. Also, the clutch pedal keeps grabbing higher and higher each time I drive it, maybe things are getting broken in and adjusting slightly? Fuel trims adjusting which may affect idle? I'm just throwing out random guesses here.

The throttle seems to go back to 0% every time now, hopefully it stays that way. Since several of these parts haven't been used in 2 or 3 years, maybe they just needed a little wearing in.

**1ViciousGSX** · 12-17-2007

Check your clutch rod adjustment, 2g's are notorious for ghost pedal which will cause it to pump up.

**asshanson** · 12-18-2007

Well I risked the 4 hour drive back up to the cities, and the car made it. Not without a couple problems though. First, I think my valve cover is leaking really bad, it started losing oil somewhere on the timing belt side, so I have an oily engine bay on that side now. I had to put in a quart half-way up here. It may just be a gasket issue, or the valve cover may be warped too since it didn't fit quite right on the new motor, rocked a little back and forth without screws.

Also, I'm having a super weird problem with fuel, and it seems ECU related. Under mild acceleration or < 5 lbs boost the car operates great. However, it starts to act up big time when it stays constant throttle for more than 10 seconds or so, then something triggers and it runs like crap. It gets really bogged down it seems like, and shudders a lot, and I thought something in the drivetrain was loose, then noticed my A/F gauge was stuck at lean, not blinking back and forth like usual. Giving more gas and trying to accelerate doesn't fix the problem, it's stuck in this mode. However, putting it into neutral for a few seconds, the light blinks to rich for a second like usual, then i can shift back into gear and cruise normally. A few seconds later, it suddenly triggers back to crap mode. However, if I constantly fluctuate the throttle a few percent, it doesn't get into this mode. Any ideas?????

**scheides** · 12-18-2007

This stuttering problem sounds like the issue I had with my car and ESchwanz continues to have. Pull power to the ECU for a minute, then it should go away for a while.

FattyBoomBatty · 12-18-2007

could that be from a really bad TPS?

turbotalon1g · 12-18-2007

^i was thinking the same thing.

FattyBoomBatty · 12-18-2007

I'm actually also wondering about your grounds. Seems to me that things attatched to your engine aren't working properly, perhaps the engine isn't grounded very well? starter engaging and disengaging and other weird problems. I dunno.

**asshanson** · 12-18-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty

I'm actually also wondering about your grounds. Seems to me that things attatched to your engine aren't working properly, perhaps the engine isn't grounded very well? starter engaging and disengaging and other weird problems. I dunno.

Thanks, I'll check them, that sounds pretty reasonable actually. I had one leftover ground cable when I was done, not sure where it goes.

Also, is the TPS adjustable, sort of like the CAS? Because when I bolted it back on I just put it to the middle of the slots, not sure how to set it correctly.

**Halon** · 12-18-2007

If you have a means to log, you should be able to adjust the TPS so that at full throttle you see 100%.

**asshanson** · 12-22-2007

Got the oil leak fixed, found out I had a bad valve cover and MAP fixed it all up (also realized I forgot to switch the injector pins). The problem with the stuttering/lean mode went away for a day, but on my way back home today it happened again. So I disconnected the battery power for a minute and it fixed the problem. This is going to be annoying if I have to disconnect my battery every couple of days. Scheides, did dsmlink fix the problem on your old 2g?

My gas mileage is so awesome now, I love it. Normally I got around 270 miles per tank, I'm at almost 300 now and it's just below the quarter full mark. Granted it was 100% highway, but I'm guessing it'll turn out to be 28mpg or so, about 4-5 increase.

Also, when I used to cruise on the highway, it would sometimes have to get into a pound of boost to maintain 75 up a hill, but now it never gets above the 10 in vacuum, maybe why I'm getting better highway mileage.

Anyway, just need to fix the high idle and adjust the throttle position sensor now, plus little things like a boost leak test. It's still pretty driveable in the current condition though, it'll be a few weeks before I get to fix everything.