Evo X upgrades - Page 4

C3L1CA · 01-01-2010

MAS actually moved to Oakdale this past summer, went out of business, but I think they re-opened again.

You should go to TNT Race Shop if you want to get fittings locally. They are a lot more knowledgeable than MAS could ever be.

**Kracka** · 01-01-2010

I know MAP stocks -AN lines and fittings.

**mlomker** · 01-03-2010

When RS installed my coils they had the rebound set on a fairly stiff setting. We tried to get at the rebound adjustment for the rear coils but it couldn't be reached with the hex key. Over the weekend I cut down a hex key and spent a few hours (on and off) figuring out how to get them in there. I finally found the right angle using needle nose pliers.

I want to upgrade my clutch before the BB-X arrives because I don't think the stocker would live more than a few days with that thing installed. I decided to go with what many X owners are doing: the ACT HD six-puck sprung. I'm going with a ACT Prolite flywheel as well.

I'm planning to put in an adjustable FPR and a double-pump using a Full Blown hanger. I'm not sure if the DW1000's will be adequate even at a higher base pressure but I know a few guys have set it up that way.

**Kracka** · 01-03-2010

Shouldn't a single 255HP flow enough to support the BB-X on E85?

**mlomker** · 01-03-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

Shouldn't a single 255HP flow enough to support the BB-X on E85?

For whatever reason the X's don't get as much out of a single Walbro as the 8/9's. Shane says they max around 420. The stock-frame turbos are doing around 450 with cams so quite a bit of work for that 30hp. I suppose it's better to have too much fuel capacity than too little.

Oh, yeah...I have a set of Cosworth MX1's on order as well. I'll be putting those in with the BB-X.

**Kracka** · 01-03-2010

Ahh ok, I didn't know that about the X's. Will the 2nd pump only come on during boost or how will it be wired in? What are the specs on those Cosi cams?

**mlomker** · 01-03-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

Will the 2nd pump only come on during boost or how will it be wired in? What are the specs on those Cosi cams?

I'm going to wait for Ron to figure out the wiring & plumbing but I'm assuming a Hobbs switch based on boost for the second pump. Another company, BlaqOps, makes progressive double-pump kits for the X based off boost or maf. It's more sophisticated but they require sending in your stock hanger for modification...I don't want to pay for the downtime (rental car).

These are the same cams that murlo has--266/266. They are mild, not requiring a spring upgrade.

http://www.maperformance.com/coswort...ion-evo-x.html

**scheides** · 01-03-2010

Spring upgrades are the shit, you'll be bouncing off the stock rev limiter with the stock springs and the BBX I promise

Are you going to do the cams and turbo at the same time? Or sit on the cams and see how the car does on stock cams? With the stock cams you could rev it a little higher pretty safely

t-revzr · 01-03-2010

So you can push a X's stock bottom more than a 8's or 9's?

**mlomker** · 01-04-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by scheides

Spring upgrades are the shit, you'll be bouncing off the stock rev limiter with the stock springs and the BBX I promise

I assume you have to pull the head to do springs? I just added up the parts and it looks unaffordable to me. I assume you'd need springs, head studs, head & valve cover gaskets, cams? That's $1500 in parts and another $1k in labor wouldn't surprise me.

I've heard that just swapping the cam takes some time, unless the tech has done quite a few of them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by scheides

Are you going to do the cams and turbo at the same time?

I was planning to do it at once since I'd have to pay for two tunes otherwise. I guess if I'm concerned about making too much power (see below) then I can always ask Shane for a mild tune. You can always turn the boost down...

Quote:

Originally Posted by t-revzr

So you can push a X's stock bottom more than a 8's or 9's?

What is the number for the 8 and 9's? I thought that 400's were fine on them. Ryan's AMS turbo is running in the 500's. I'm not sure what the long-term consequences of adding power will be...they've only been out since 2008 so we really don't know for sure.

I'm only aware of a couple X's that were pushed until they came apart. The rod bolts let go somewhere in the 600's.

There are a few shops (like TTP) that insist on rod bolts & head studs beyond 400hp. I'm under the impression that they can be done without pulling the head/motor if the mechanic knows what they are doing...I will talk to the local shops when I'm ready to install and see what they have to say.

**scheides** · 01-04-2010

Dang, was hoping to see what a BBX would do on stock cams & E85

Oh well, doing it 'right' is never a bad thing! Valvesprings can be done w/o pulling the head, but its a bit tricky. The cams on an X are so mild I would think that even the stock springs might be able to deal with an elevated rev-limit, even on aftermarket cams. I know Gates runs his stock cams to like 8200 regularly w/o issue.

Seems as though ~420whp on shane's dyno is the accepted safe limit of the evo8/9 7-bolt bottom-end. Even then I know one person that saw stretched rod bolts but those may be due to extenuating circumstances (meth fail). Evo X's 4b11 on the other hand seem to be beefier all over on the bottom end..I would expect 450whp (dyno dynamics) to really be closer to the 'safe' limit as long as torque wasn't over ~400 and the motor didn't see over 8000rpm much. It's for this reason that going 'all out' on the X is really not a bad choice and at the same time, makes me wonder if upgrading the snail on my car is a good idea

**mlomker** · 01-04-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by scheides

The cams on an X are so mild I would think that even the stock springs might be able to deal with an elevated rev-limit, even on aftermarket cams.

So far in life my cars haven't rewarded me much for going one notch to the safe side but I still tend to do it. The MX1 is a mild cam and doesn't require springs but if I were going to up the rev limiter then I'd do the mild cam + springs.

In my mind the head studs & rod bolts are a given. I had a very reasonable quote from DG Motors for doing it ($300 when doing cams) so if a local shop can do it then that's cheap insurance.

**mlomker** · 01-04-2010

I had resisted ordering an intake but I'm not sure if the BB-X has a 3" inlet or not. If it does then the Perrin inlet that I'd already purchased wouldn't work. I'd thought about buying the UR short ram but that can run into problems from the fan blowing on it.

I bit the bullet and ordered the AMS intake. I'll have to unload the parts that I'm pulling off but such is life. I rarely get these things right on the first try. The AMS seemed overpriced when I first looked at it but on closer inspection, it has important features that the others don't...the fan shield, relocating the BOV, being 3" so that I can just change the coupler at the turbo inlet. <sigh>

**scheides** · 01-04-2010

I really wouldn't bother with the head studs until you need to pull the head for some reason, the stockers are just dandy. No comment on the rod bolts, I've been going back and forth on these and ultimately if the rod bolt does hold, the next thing to go is the actual rod itself, resulting in catastrophic damage (block and all) vs just a spun bearing...I'm sticking with my stockers for now.

I like the AMS intake, full 3" is nice. I'm pretty sure the BBX has a stock-sized inlet, but having the intake as open as possible is is rarely a bad thing

**mlomker** · 01-04-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by scheides

I really wouldn't bother with the head studs until you need to pull the head for some reason, the stockers are just dandy.

Ron tells me that the springs can probably be done without pulling the head but if I let him pull the head then it'd be quicker to do...he could remove the pistons and deal with the rod bolts on a bench that way.

During my first oil change I'd noticed my oil pan gasket has small leak so I could kill a couple birds with one stone here. I'd definitely feel fine about revving out the motor with those pieces in place.

I ordered a Full Race manifold. I had thought about going with a Grimmspeed pnp but the tubulars look much nicer even if there isn't a lot of power difference.