What motor would you choose? To put in a Z car.

[1QUICK4]

Turbo'd Busa motor with a slipper clutch?

[FattyBoomBatty]

What's that like a 2100 or something?

[Super Bleeder!!]

1300cc

[1QUICK4]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUH8S...t=81596&page=3

[turbotalon1g]

Still trying to find a solid number on the motor weights, but I am leaning toward aluminum. Got a friend with an LS6 take out.

[JET]

Dressed LS1 is 457lbs for an auto and 497 for a manual. An LS1 is 93 lbs lighter than an LQ4 iron block (some have said up to 114 lbs). That is a pretty signicant difference.

[FattyBoomBatty]

Originally Posted by Super Bleeder!!

1300cc

I was making a slipper clutch joke. I know they's 1.3 litres.

[titanium]

Had money not been an issue I would have gone with an LS2 instead of the LQ9(not LQ4 ) that ended up in there. I got that engine+wiring harness+ECU and pedal for $1300 shipped to my door.

[turbotalon1g]

^You mofo. Thats dirt. ^Thanks for chiming in. Please give more opinion of it since you actually had one.
What did you build it for? AUto-x, street. drag?
Aluminum was winning, but iron can be rebuilt easily and is way cheaper than LS2.
Still researching.

[titanium]

I never had decent stopping power, stock shitty metal plate disc brakes and the same in the rear so its hard to say how it would do overall. In the turns I did notice it was front heavy, as long as you dont plan on going beyond what the block can handle I'd get the aluminum. I could drive around on the street just fine but less weight is always better.

[JET]

The LS2 has iron sleeves, so it can be rebuilt just as easily. The sleeves are removeable also, so it can be resleeved. That makes it more rebuildable than the iron ones.

I checked some prices and the iron blocks are much cheaper. I found LQ4's for under $800. LQ9 was $900 or so and they have better heads. LS2's were over $2k with most over $3k.

[turbotalon1g]

Guys seriously. Thanks for the help. I am gonna owe you big time when this thing gets done.

Those price differences are huge and I have a friend with a fat hookup at the J-yards (So i am told) to where the prices for those iron blocks could be almost halved.

Price diff. is what is going to ruin me, so far all the research is saying iron for price and power, but LS2 is like the good go between.

[JET]

Basically just break it down, the LS2 and iron block are both capable of handling the power and everything is equal except for weight and price. So, is losing 100lbs off the nose of the car worth $2,000?

[MustGoFaster]

I voted Iron, because it's really hard to justify 2-3x the price for 100 some pounds. Move the battery to the trunk.

[FattyBoomBatty]

Ask any racer, any real racer, and he'll tell you, it doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile... wait.. I mean to say that some people would spend the extra money just to have the lighter engine, but they probably have too much money. Just put some sandbags or an extra battery in back like suggested above, except two, for twice the power.

[MustGoFaster]

You could also take a plasma cutter to the firewall and do a "Front Midship" 350z/G35 style. That might put the shifter kind of far back though.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Put in an L24.

[turbotalon1g]

Dont know if i mentioned this but the motor would be behind the front axles.

Yeah its tough for me to justify that money for the weight savings and if I had it I would do it.

Not like shit is gonna happen any time soon, I will just keep an eye out for a deal on alum. if not Fe it is.

If I can get into radiology school, I think a grad. present will be a KB or whipple 2.8 or bigger.

[munchgsx]

You and these root blowers. All motor that thing will be insane.

[FattyBoomBatty]

Why not just get a HUGE cam for it? The most badass roller setup you can bolt on. That's what I'd do. Then just I/H/E like a civic.