Easiest way to get the springs/valves off head.

Onefast99gsx · 01-10-2005

Hello. Can someone tell me what the easiest way to get the springs off are? What tool do you use? We have one that is for like Chevy, Ford, Mopar, etc.. but i'm not sure it will work for this type of head. I don't have head off so i couldn't say whether my tool will work or not. Just wondering what exact tool do you use. I don't wanna spend $100+ on some Mitsu. tool. I just want the cheap route.

Thanks.

Matt D. · 01-10-2005

You need a tool that will compress the spring and retainer, but allow you to get the two clips out from in between the retainer and the valve stem. You will also need a way to keep the valve from moving as you compress the spring.

Raptor · 01-10-2005

Making a tool is possible, I have seen several home grown variations that fit the mitsu head. Depending on what tool you have for the domestic heads, it could be modified as well, really depends on what it is. I believe there is an example of one online somewhere as well. As far as cheap ones go, I don't know of any that are all that cheap that will work. Mine was over a hundred.

Onefast99gsx · 01-10-2005

We have the big "U" shaped tool. Looks similar to a big C-clamp. I'll just have to see if it will work for these itty-bitty valves/retainers.

**JET** · 01-10-2005

I made my own tool. You must have to head off to use it, but it was made out of a C-clamp and socket. I believe I found it on Tooners. Just plasma cut out the back of the socket and you are set.

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 01-10-2005

Here are instructions on how to mod a normal valve spring compressor that you find at a place like Sears to work on a DSM head. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/Valvespring-compressor.html The head has to be off the car to use one like this. You can buy ones that allow you to do it with the head still on the car though.

dumb_ricer · 01-10-2005

Yeah, what JET said is what I have seen done quite a few times.

You pretty much buy a deep socket (dont know what size) and get a C clamp large enough to go around the head so you can clamp it on the valve then cut a hole in the side of the socket so you can fit your fingers inside to pull out the retainers. Pretty simple really.

Raptor · 01-10-2005

There are ways to make ones that work with the head on the car, I have seen functional home grown versions of those as well. Mine will work either way and reproducing it would not be that difficult.

**Goat Blower** · 01-10-2005

Or you can do like we did at the SO last year with no tool. You have one big guy push down on the valve spring retainer with a big set of pliers and one guy putting in the two little keepers. Obviously the same method can be used to take them out. It's a bitch but it gets the job done in a pinch. You can also compress the lifters(HLA)'s with a bottle jack and the bottom of your trailer, but that's another story.

Headwork in the Econolodge parking lot at 3am, I should write a book about it.

Raptor · 01-10-2005

There are a few companies that make some pretty slick ones that load the keepers for you and catch them when they come off, not a bad option. If you even consider doing this with the head on, block off the return holes with a rag or something to keep them from going all the way to your oil pan, it does happen. Another thing, you might want to make sure you are taking the springs off the cylinder the compressed air is on. I have seen that one happen as well (not me) once that valve goes down the little hole, your not getting it back without taking off the head. (they tried, I laughed)

Alpine TSi · 01-10-2005

Yeah, I could imagine that it would suck if you were trying to replace valve seals with the head on the block and dropping a valve down inside a cylinder. Just think of having to take the head off just for one valve. That would really suck, I am glad that hasn't happened to me, just wish I could say it never happened to my car. LOL!

**Goat Blower** · 01-11-2005

You just have to make sure the piston is at TDC for the valves your are working on. Turn the crank 180 degrees and repeat, no dropped valves. Although to be able to put the springs and retainers back on, you'd need the valves completely closed for obvious reasons, hence the use of air or some rope down in the cylinder.

john · 01-11-2005

If you do not have compressed air, use the rope methode as Steve said. You just stick one end it the cylinder and stuff it in. Go as far as you can and leave the other end out so you can get it out (Captain Obvious says).

Raptor · 01-17-2005

Fuel line is a better option than rope, the separate fibers have been known to get stuck in the valves and cause problems. Rotating the crank as steve mentioned is a good safety measure however if you do that in combination with the compressed air, you will need to lock the crank in position, the compressed air will rotate the assembly and put the piston away from the valve again. One last thing to mention, no matter what method you use on or off the car, take a dead blow and a drift and smack each retainer to break them loose. If you skip this step, you will have a very difficult time getting the retainer/spring to compress and the valve to remain.

Onefast99gsx · 03-31-2005

Got the head off last night. Gonna take the valve and springs off next week when my spring compressor tools comes in.

Question: Is there any reason that i cannot reuse the valve stem seals or are they shot once you take the valves out?

**Goat Blower** · 03-31-2005

Don't go cheap on the seals unless you have almost new ones in there. They're only $30 or so for Mitsu ones.